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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2006, 04:35 PM
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Default Fuel pressure problems

Just got a new fuel system installed and having apparent problems with fuel pressure through the regulator to the primary bowl. I have a Mighty Demon 750 and it appears the fuel level in the bowl is above the site window and fuel is running out of the venturi? after I stop cranking the engine.

I have a new high volume mechanial fuel pump with a -8 AN line to a Holley 2 port regulator - that is supposedly set from the factor around 6 lbs pressure - the regulator has -6AN plumbing out to the bowls. Summit liquid filled pressure gauge threaded into the fitting coming out of the rear bowl outlet on the regulator.

One question - I have the regulator installed on its side ie the adjustment valve that is on "top" of the regulator is pointing sideways as the regulator is sitting under the bottom of the turkey pan. Do these things work off gravity and have to be at a certain orientation?

I turned the pressure adjust to lower the pressure and when I crank the engine it shows 0 pressure now.

Appreciate any ideas...
Thanks!
Scott
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Old 06-30-2006, 05:40 PM
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Needle is stuck open on the carb. Probably some dirt. Tap lightly with wrench. If that does not work, remove, clean, inspect and re-install.

Pressure regulator can be mounted in any position.
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Old 06-30-2006, 05:44 PM
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If you have a Demon carb---check for metal chips in the needle seat area--they have / had a problem with quality control and many of there carbs I've seen are full of chips/ burrs

Jerry
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Old 06-30-2006, 07:08 PM
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Looks like that was it. Pulled both needle assemblies out, blew them out with compressed air, reinstalled and now up and running.

Now to get the advance set......I think I've got the distributor a gear tooth off as I can't get enough initial advance ie around 20-22. Can't get the distributor to turn any farther.

Also, when I was trying to turn it, it took a couple of good "bites" out of me.....I got shocked twice pretty good. Is that bad wires? One wire is pressed up against the surge tank so wonder if it's getting a charge out from under the boot?
Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2006, 03:56 PM
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What bushing are you using in the distributor? I just installed a Mighty Demon last week from 4secondsflat.com and installed a 20 degree bushing. Initial is 20, full is 34 on my 418W. If you think you're off a tooth on your distributor you'll need to find number one position and do over on the distributor install.
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Old 07-05-2006, 06:49 PM
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Your timing numbers don't add up

If initial is 20 and you have 20 in the dist you have total of 40
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:43 PM
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You really don't want 20-22 initial with your 427. 10-14 and 20 on the distributor is ideal, that's about all the 427 will take.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:36 PM
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The needle seems to keep getting stuck open. I pull it, blow it out with compressed air, and re-set the float level. Then I drive it or run it and next thing the site window is full and fuel continues to come out the carb.

No doubt I've got junk in the line as I've replaced everything from the fuel tank to the carb. I've now also installed an Earl's inline filter after the fuel pump in addition to the filter just after the fuel tank connection.

Any ideas on how to flush the line, or do I just keep running it and cleaning the needle when it sticks?
Thanks!
Scott
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:10 PM
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Mechanical or electric fuel pump?

If mechanical, do you have an old electric pump lying around? You could get an 8 foot hose and route the fuel back to the tank rather than the carb.

Good Luck
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
Your timing numbers don't add up

If initial is 20 and you have 20 in the dist you have total of 40
You are correct.....its a 14 degree bushing with 20 degrees additional. Total 34.

Doh!
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:45 PM
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Zoom

That is what I use on a lot of my tune-ups, generally with a blue and a light silver spring.

Scott---change that needle and seat, and check more carefully for chips and debris


Jerry
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:32 PM
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I have some needle assemblies that have a round head on the needle instead of pointed. Any idea what that style is for and if it would work in this carb? BTW I'm running a Barry Grant Mighty Demon 750 and a mechanical fuel pump - don't have an electric one around.

I may take the regulator to carb assembly apart and try to clean all that out. Whole bunch of connections including 3 pipe thread connections where I used Permatex #1 sealant on the threads.
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:17 PM
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Whatever you do , never, ever put teflon tape on any fuel system(or brake) connections---the tape will shear off little pieces that will get in needle/seat assy, etc and cause nothing but problems--I have seen three different race cars burn at the drag strips from electric pumps and teflon tape--


You could have a little bit of permatex in your needle/seat causing it to stick.

Jerry
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:30 PM
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Default Pics of the finished system

Jerry - yes got the tip about the teflon tape so have used Permatex #1. Very likely there is some of that being pulled into the bowl. Wanted to get some of those carb inlet fittings with the screens on them, but the local parts place was out of stock.

I pulled the needle assembly - again - and cleaned it with carb cleaner and a lot of compressed air and reinstalled. Will run it tomorrow.

Question - if the bowl is flooding, what would be the symptoms when I'm driving? Would they include smoke out the side-pipes and some mis fireing from fouled plugs? Just trying to see if my needle assembly and smoke are one and the same issue or do I have multiple gremlins?

Here's the system as it stands today:

New -8 AN connection to fuel tank and Professional Product filter


New Clay Smith high volume fuel pump, Earl's -8 AN in-line filter and fittings


Holley fuel pressure regulator, AED pressure gauge, and all sorts of -6 AN connections to get to the bowls
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Old 07-13-2006, 06:45 AM
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I had a problem like this one with my Aeromotive pressure regulator. Turned out there was a piece of aluminum shaving in the regulator and was causing it to stick.

Roscoe
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Old 07-13-2006, 07:01 AM
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Well--you take nice pictures--Didn't your lower hose blow off a few weeks ago?

The picture shows what I believe to be some of that cool-flex(whatever) hose on the bottom--nobody can get that stuff to stay on a high-pressure system--also the hose clamp at the water pump isn't all the way on the connection

There is a teflon sealant paste for fittings so that you don't need to use Permatex #1

Jerry
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