Random tips

[HSSS427]

Picked these up while fighting with engine re-build, tranny replacement and associated projects. Credit on several to both Keith Craft and Bill Parham:

- When installing intake gasket, use brake cleaner to wipe down all contact surfaces. Use spray on adhesive on the intake gasket to hold it in place while you set the intake down.

- Don't use cork gaskets on the front and rear ledges for the intake - just build a thick bead of gasket sealer

- Use clear aluminum silicone sealer for gaskets that are visible on the outside, since it's clear and won't show if it squeezes out

- Installing the engine with transmission attached into an ERA is doable if you have at least one other person to help, and one of the engine slings that lets you adjust the tilt of the assembly as you go. I had been installing tranny from the interior after installing engine and hard to get it to mate up easily. Don't try it with the carb and/or turkey pan on.

- For that top driver side rear header bolt on an FE in an ERA, get one of the new ratcheting crescent wrenches with a swivel head. Still a tough bugger to get at, but can be done.

- If you get scratches in your steering wheel, or other aluminum, Creswell makes an aluminum polishing kit that you can run with a drill that works great.

- If you replace a stock Ford bellhouse with a Lakewood, know that the Lakewood is 1/2" narrower than the Ford and you need to deal with changing input shafts - at least for a Tremec - and the mounting cross member is not going to match up with the transmission tail housing mount or the hole in the transmission tunnel anymore. However, you can make the transmission hole still work with a little trimming and then the rubber boot and ring will still cover the hole if you don't trim too much.

- Leakdown tests aren't really accurate unless the engine is warm

- Pin holes in cylinder sleeves do happen (see my thread on this elsewhere) and don't really show up on magna-flux or possibly even pressure tests.

- Using stock Ford rocker arm stands on FEs where the rocker arms on each end are "hanging" can/will crack your rocker arm shaft, particularly if you have higher spring pressures associate with hydraulic cams. Get end stands intalled to prevent this and provide additional support. Southern Automotive custom makes end stands for FEs.

- You can over-lash hydraulic lifters and cause your valves to stay open, thus having no compression in that cylinder. When tightening the adjusting nut, the push rod should still spin, just not have any play up and down in it. I was tightening them until the push rod was hard to spin - too much. Also, when you're lashing your valves, put a piece of tape on each valve as you do it, unless you have a better memory than me

- Remember to drain all the water out of the intake before removing it, or you'll dump water down in your short block. Probably will dump water in it anyway, but you can make it a lot less by remembering to dain out of the bottom of the radiator and then remove one of the water pump bolts that goes into the water jacket, and draining water out of the top of the block from there.

- When you refill with water, make sure to fill the block up - I do it via the water temp port on top of the intake, and then fill the surge tank and radiator - remember that the thermostat will stop water from flowing into the block from the surge tank.

- Use exhaust system sealer to seal up the connection where header pipes slip fit into the side pipe collector. I smear a coat inside the collector and then slide it over the headers. Don't know how long it will last, but it does stop back-fires.

- If you decide to replace your fuel line, recognize that it's tough to find a good route through the rear suspension frame unless your're willing to drop the frame.

- Use a braided steel line for your oil pressure line or be VERY SURE the line can not get near the headers - real flames down the side of your car are not as cool as the painted on ones - oh and when you're in a hurry for that first test drive, don't forget to put the fire extinguisher back in the car first

- All electrical issues with lights and dash are related to a grounding problem Well, not all but it's the first place to start checking!

- Water pump / alternator belt alignment is important. Throwing the belt at high rpms manifests itself in your water temp suddenly shooting out the roof, probably blowing the lower radiator hose off, and hey....did you stick an extra belt in the trunk?

- Make sure the towing coverage is not just on the family car

- It's amazing how many people will stop to help with a broken down Cobra! And it's even more amazing how one of their relatives owned a real one back in the day but sold it and hates themself now

- You will learn a lot of basic mechanics in a short time owning a Cobra!

- And finally, to all the newbs saying "that's dumb, I would never do that..." Just Wait!

Thanks!
Scott