Flat Tappet Cam Break-in Lube

[RodgerH]

Ran across this on CompetitionPlus.com "New Products" webpage.

Thought you flat tappet guys might be interested. (I'm running a hydraulic roller )

http://www.competitionplus.com/index...=8434&Itemid=8

More at:
http://www.lunatipower.com/News.aspx?id=26

Rodger

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

(I'm running a hydraulic roller )Rodger

Here, let me fix that for you:

(I'm running a hydraulic roller )

[Bob In Ct]

Remember, just like Vitamin A, you can use too much of this stuff.

Bob

[RodgerH]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

Here, let me fix that for you:

(I'm running a hydraulic roller )

That's what I get for being a Smart A$$.
Rodger

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

That's what I get for being a Smart A$$.
Rodger

No, I am just learning how much fun it is to own an antique (solid lifter motor.)

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

That's what I get for being a Smart A$$.
Rodger

No good deed goes unpunished here!
Thanks for posting even though you don't need this stuff.

[Michael C Henry]

So how much does this stuff cost and how much oil is it supposed to treat? How does it compare to ZDDP? The ZDDP treated 5 quarts so I had to use two per oil change. I ordered a six pack of the ZDDP to defray the shipping cost But it's avaiable on ebay and still around $8+ per bottle. Someone said to just use the purple breakin oil.
I did notice that after I added the two bottlels of ZDDP that oil temps fell about 30° to 40°.

[Bob In Ct]

I use Redline, 50% more (800 PPM vs 1200 PPM) ZDDP than Mobil1. I had them both tested.

Bob

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Michael C Henry

So how much does this stuff cost and how much oil is it supposed to treat? How does it compare to ZDDP? The ZDDP treated 5 quarts so I had to use two per oil change. I ordered a six pack f the ZDDP to defray the shipping cost But it's avaiable on ebay and still around $*+ per bottle. Some one said to just use the purple racing oil.

Just click here: http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.html

[jwd]

For break in, use a CI-4 or CJ-4 rated oil with 1 bottle of GM EOS. After that, just use CI-4 or CJ-4 oil. No need to use any of the snake oil additives.

Jim

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by jwd

For break in, use a CI-4 or CJ-4 rated oil with 1 bottle of GM EOS. After that, just use CI-4 or CJ-4 oil. No need to use any of the snake oil additives.

Jim

That's not such good advice anymore, I think. CI-4 and CJ-4 are for diesels. They used to have a lot of Zinc and Magnesium for anti-wear. But, diesels now have cats. CJ-4 doesn't have the additives it used to. And you really have a tough time finding CI-4 on the shelf any more.

[jwd]

Bob,

My info. comes from not only the major oil makers but from Duke Williams who has written many articles in collector car mags. and happens to be an engineer who developed many HP motors for the "big 3". Do a search on him and you'll find the truth about motor oils and it won't be from someone who is trying to sell you something. His advice is followed by car collectors (myself included) that have cars worth 100's of thousands of dollars.

Jim

PS It's Zinc and phosphorus (not mag.) and even CJ-4 has 1200 PPM just like the old days.

[patrickt]

... use a dedicated break in oil that is specifically flat tappet friendly. Now isn't that easier? Click here and quit arguing: http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/BIO30.html

[jwd]

I copied this from the NCRS forum.

Q - I heard shell rotella changed again and lowered zddp to less than 800.

Dukes answer - Okay, the CJ-4 spec has been in place since 2006, and the first released products showed up on retail shelves in early 2007, and the 1200 PPM P limit will not change. Any major changes such as a reduction in P will require a new spec, and I am not aware that a new spec is anything other than in the advanced planning stage at this point with industry providing input. I expect the CJ-4 spec to remain current and not be superseded for several more years, and when a new spec is released sometime in the future, we will know if there is a change to the CJ-4 P limit.

The Internet is full of ignorant morons that run around spreading baseless rumors - Chicken Littles screaming that the sky is falling.

My suggestion is that anyone who "hears" something bad do some research. Detailed information on engine oils is readily available from the API and manufacturers, and the Chevron Delo Web site provides the most comprehensive technical data. Any other manufacturer's same API category product is going to be essentially the same because they are all blended to meet the same performance specifications/requirements including the same comprehensive test suite that all must pass.

So the next time anyone "hears" something about motor oil, how about doing some research on your own before you pass along Internet trash on this site.

Until a new C-category spec is released by API in the indeterminate future, the CJ-4 product will remain the same as it is today, which is the same as it was when CJ-4 products showed up on retail shelves in early 2007. The P concentration will not change!

Likewise, the engine oil information in the article published in The Corvette Restorer a year ago will remain current until a new C-category spec is released, and when a new spec is finalized, I'll likely know about it, including any changes that might affect engine oil choice for our vintage cars.

Until then keep using CJ-4 or CI-4 and ignore all the scare-mongering on the Internet!

[jwd]

Originally Posted by patrickt

... use a dedicated break in oil that is specifically flat tappet friendly. Now isn't that easier? Click here and quit arguing: http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/BIO30.html

I'm sure it is okay as a break in oil. I'm just leary about any claims made by someone trying to sell me something since those claims don't have to be proven to be true.

Jim

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by jwd

I'm just leary about any claims made by someone trying to sell me something since those claims don't have to be proven to be true.

Jim

I agree with that. I bought a case of the old GM EOS a couple of years ago right before they changed their formula and before all these questionable "ZDDP Supplements" started hitting the market. You have to wonder what's really in them, what sort of Quality Control they have, if they're being whipped up in somebody's basement, etc. Brad Penn is good stuff though. A little pricey and hard to find, but good stuff. I have to have it shipped to me... I never see it in stores.

[bulletbrown]

I had Camresearch Corp in Englewood Co. 80110 303-762-0022 pre-breakin my solid lifters and cam. It seems to work great and saves time and money in the break in process of adding the second set of spring in after break in. The charge was 60 dollars . A bargain and a time saver.

[elmariachi]

http://photos.imageevent.com/moparno...chAdditive.pdf

[blykins]

Camresearch doesn't always work. There have been several instances of people having their cams broken in there, then flattening them out when they got them in the car.

[patrickt]

Brent, how many times have I written that I don't understand why everybody doesn't use a solid flat tappet cam? Yes, you have to break it in, but once you're past that and you get a thousand miles on it then it's going to last longer than you are. With a high quality roller rocker set-up you lash it once a year... if that. Just use a good ZDDP oil. C'mon, how hard is that? And you get the benefit of that wonderful flat tappet sound and the hi-revs. Anybody that puts a hydraulic cam in an FE-equipped Cobra is just a big, fat puss_.