What things about your Cobra would you have done differently?

[Argess]

Only thing I would change (and still can) is to put a hole in the driver's footwell so I can access the lower left rear exhaust manifold bolt easier!!!

Oh wait!.....I stuck "COBRA 428" Branda valve covers on it. I am getting so sick and tired of people asking me why it says 428 on the engine, but 427 on the fender emblems. I really have to save some cash and get "COBRA LeMans" covers.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Argess

Only thing I would change (and still can) is to put a hole in the driver's footwell so I can access the lower left rear exhaust manifold bolt easier!!!

Oh wait!.....I stuck "COBRA 428" Branda valve covers on it. I am getting so sick and tired of people asking me why it says 428 on the engine, but 427 on the fender emblems. I really have to save some cash and get "COBRA LeMans" covers.

You can get the exhaust bolt from below with a bent wrench. Make the footbox hole for the #8 spark plug. Make small cover from .005 aluminum or tin with tap screws to close that hole or heat will kill you.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

You can get the exhaust bolt from below with a bent wrench. Make the footbox hole for the #8 spark plug. Make small cover from .005 aluminum or tin with tap screws to close that hole or heat will kill you.

ERA Chas - Does your footbox and #8 clearance look like this? I'm wondering if some of the changes ERA made starting with car #731 included trying to fix that problem.

[ERA Chas]

Yes the footbox has that general shape. The early cars (which is what I have) do not have the extended boxes which came later but I do not know at what chassis number.
The difference with my car is the reservoir which is mounted on top and the clutch line which crosses the footbox and goes down the side to the clutch master right at the last exhaust port. My clutch hard line is covered in Firesleeve for that reason.
You later number guys have the 3 cans on the fender well. Don't know if 392 which Argess has came with the cans or my set up. I made that access hole 21 years ago.

[rokndad]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

I would have gone for a slightly less aggressive cam profile so I could realistically think about going the Weber route. I really don't want to perform that type of procedure (camshaft replacement) on my current motor unless I honestly have to. I've done them before and it's open heart surgery for a car...not hard, just a tedious procedure when the motor is in the car.

-Dean

Dean,

I have a 252-262 roller cam with .612 lift EX/INT and 112 degree lobe sep. I think it's one of Keith Craft's Comp Cam roller grinds he uses for the over 600 HP 482 FE's. With the big 950 4bbl it loped pretty good and wailed to top end with 640 HP on the KC dyno.

Now on with the Webers. Same cam, not so lopey and a little rich at idle but holy cow Batman, throttle response, major low end torque and even better screaming to top end!! Still working a little here and there with the LM-1 and A/F ratios, but getting really close. We can talk more at John Force's next week. Whoever gets there first, save the spot next door for the other.

I wished I had the money for an aluminum body, and like Rodknock, Magnesium wheels on Blue Streak Sports Cars Specials. I would paint the car black, and would like to go with the street version. Although I really like the Webers found on some S/C's, I'd most likely shift back to the 4bbl to stay more consistent with the street theme.

[Michael C Henry]

As far as the exhaust bolts coming lose. My heads are the Cobra Jet style with both exhaust bolt patterns but the end holes aren't used giving me a total of 14 bolts per side. I used the Stage 8 bolts with the small diameter hex heads for access and locking levers. I asked when on phone and found that the 3/8" x 3/4" bolt set part number with an (A) added got you 1" long bolt set to take full advantage of more of the threads available in my aluminum heads. I did buy a jig for drilling bolt heads for safety wire and had to leave the center two bolts on both sides levers off and just safety wire them up. A real long pain in the ass to assemble. Some bolts ended up behind pipe and had to go in in a sequence and then draw them all in each a little ata time. Good news I've never had one come lose after the whole procedure. I also used the copper exhaust gaskets. I lost way more bolts, levers, and locking rings on my floor when working on my car than I ever lost on the road. Just don't know where they fell to but remember I had 4 extra to start with because I had to order two sets of bolts. Also the small heads let me use the box end of the wrenches which were a deffinent advantage when working by feel.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

I made that access hole 21 years ago.

Interesting. Do you have any trouble getting to your front driveshaft universal joint?

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Interesting. Do you have any trouble getting to your front driveshaft universal joint?

No.
It's a poor photo but the joint is well clear of the crossmember from below.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

No.
It's a poor photo but the joint is well clear of the crossmember from below.

That's a breeze to get to. With the ERA rear handbrake bracket all of that gets covered up. With the right adapter I think I can get to mine through the gear shift trim ring hole, otherwise I'm going to put an access panel in the passenger side of the tunnel.

[RAO-3]

patrickt and ERA Chas, great pictures! Since I haven't received my car yet, the pictures really allow me to understand the specifics of the point you're trying to convey.

Ray

[Argess]

Yes, my car looks like Patrickt's, but my rear plug faces forward, so it isn't too bad to get at. Actually, the opposite one is more difficult due to the battery being in the way.

I made the "bent" wrench frm ERAs instructions. Slow, but the hard part is starting the bolt. What I've found is to start all 4 bottom bolts, lift the headers up over the bolts, and slide them down in their slots. Then put in the top bolts, but it's that right rear top one that's fiddly to start (did I say bottom before, I meant "top").

I'm really glad I got the proper pin-drives and wheels for the car. I'd regret it if I didn't. Leather seats and seat slides were another option I am pleased with.

I had ERA add in an extra cahssis suport for a full width roll bar, but so far, I am not using any roll-bar. I think I'll leave it that way as I don't do any track stuff.

I woudln't mind owning the convertible top, but I'd never use it. I do have the tonneau cover in case it starts raining when I am far from home. I can put the cover on and go in a store or somewhere until the rain stops.

LIttle things....I must get a 5-speed pattern shift knob. I did find a source recently. Apparetnly it's a legal thing here. Also is toggle switch labels. I machined new toggle switch nuts with a wide tapered edge (had to order a special thread tap), but couldnt' find an engraver who could do small compound curves, so i settled for professionally applied vinyl letters. All done, but never installed yet.....LOL.

I kind of think a kit car will always be a work in progress to some extent.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

No.
It's a poor photo but the joint is well clear of the crossmember from below.

This is a shot taken from the trim ring hole with the shifter removed. It shows what I'm up against coming from beneath. I think with a long grease gun adaptor and one of those swivel gizmos at the end I can grease the u-joint through the trim ring hole, otherwise I'll pull the passenger seat out and install a trap door on the tunnel. Chas -- you did install a drive shaft safety hoop after snapping that picture, right?

[Ron61]

The only thing I would have did different on mine was make a trap door in the trunk floor so I could get to the fuel sending unit as I had to drop the tank on it to do so. All the rest was very easy to get to under my car. I could have my transmission out and one the bench in 20 minutes.

Ron

[Tommy]

I was not the original builder of my car. It was built as a dedicated SCCA racer (e.g., full roll cage) and was not registered for use on the street for about five years. When it was retired from racing, the owner cut out part of the roll cage, swapped the race engine for a more domesticated 351W and installed a turn signal toggle switch to get it titled and registered in his home state. It went through two new owners in quick succession as each found it too uncivilized for their tastes. I was looking for a street/track car, so I bought it around 2002. It was still equipped with Hoosier racing slicks when I bought it.

I drove the car and autocrossed it for about two years. During that time I broke and upgraded the engine twice. Finally, around 2005 I completely disassembled the car and rebuilt it the way I wanted. My major list of changes fell into three categories, cosmetic, maintenance and performance improvements.

My cosmetic changes included fresh paint inside and out, new carpet, a new dash with improved gauge layout, a new steering wheel and column, and ceramic coating for the sidepipes. My maintenance changes included all new wiring, new brake and fuel lines, a new oil cooler and a new power steering fluid cooler. I moved the brake fluid reservoirs to make brake fluid changes easier. And I replaced the chronically leaky hydraulic TOB system with an externally mounted slave cylinder and a mechanical TOB fork. I also replaced the leaky rear main seal in my engine while it was out of the car.

My performance improvements focused on lowering and centering the center of gravity of the entire car. I moved every component down and as far toward the passenger's side as possible. I also moved the shifter forward and installed a racing seat with a five point harness. I installed heat shielding on the brake lines (near the headers) and installed ducting to route air from the front inlets to the front brakes.

My rebuild consumed about six months and culminated with me taking the freshly completed car to a three day track event at Roebling Road racetrack. To my complete amazement, the car worked flawlessly for all three days. It was a good project and well worth the effort.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by patrickt

This is a shot taken from the trim ring hole with the shifter removed. It shows what I'm up against coming from beneath. I think with a long grease gun adaptor and one of those swivel gizmos at the end I can grease the u-joint through the trim ring hole, otherwise I'll pull the passenger seat out and install a trap door on the tunnel. Chas -- you did install a drive shaft safety hoop after snapping that picture, right?

Yes, thanks for asking. This was reassembly after a clutch change in April.

[WarrenG]

I would have bought it sooner. I would have waited the 8 months that it took to sell the house in CA before I sent the cobra back to MD instead of sending it back when we put the house up for sale. Would consider 3.31's with 0.82 OD instead of 3.54 w/0.64. Would consider Webers instead of the Holley. If I was to buy now, I would get ERA's new slabside with wire wheels instead of the FIA!

[iwantacobra427]

I would of used a traditional clutch instead of the hydraulic throwout bearing setup. Also, I would of used a carb that has a choke! If the car sits for more than a day I have to pull the air cleaner and dump some gas down the carb.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by iwantacobra427

If the car sits for more than a day I have to pull the air cleaner and dump some gas down the carb.

That's strange. My car sits from Thanksgiving to Easter untouched, and even after that it starts up after three or four throttle pushes and a few seconds of cranking.

[Silverback51]

Originally Posted by iwantacobra427

I would of used a traditional clutch instead of the hydraulic throwout bearing setup. Also, I would of used a carb that has a choke! If the car sits for more than a day I have to pull the air cleaner and dump some gas down the carb.

I'm with Patrick on this one.

Mine sets for up to a month at times in the Winter before I can get it out. All I do is turn the key, turn on the fuel pump and let it fill the carb's for 20 to 30 seconds and start it up.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Silverback51

I'm with Patrick on this one.

Mine sets for up to a month at times in the Winter before I can get it out. All I do is turn the key, turn on the fuel pump and let it fill the carb's for 20 to 30 seconds and start it up.

... and I've got a mechanical fuel pump on mine. Seriously though, except in the dead of winter (when I don't drive it anyway) two or three pumps on the throttle and if it doesn't start within two or three seconds then there's something wrong with it. Now then after that I do have to "feather" the throttle a little bit for about 30 seconds or so before it will idle. A Toyota it is not. It's usually drivable in three or four minutes from a completely cold start. Now this is a an old-style Holley 4160 Vac. Sec. 750 -- the choke is totally gone. Gone, gone, gone... and never to be found.