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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2007, 05:55 AM
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I have been "around the block" with this issue. A couple of inspection shops in Montgomery County would not inspect the car without an emissions check. Made some phone calls to the DPS in Austin who referred me to the inspection station in Houston on Houston-Rosselyn Road. According to "Marv", an inspector at that location, if the engine block is more than 24 years old you do not need an emissions test.
Larry Q
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2007, 09:27 AM
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Larry,
The Houston area has a ton of Cobras.Where and how are all of them getting inspected ??
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2007, 12:19 PM
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Easy, the insurance card reads 65/66 and that is all that is required in Houston or as far as I know, all of Texas. Cost $12.50 for safety only. Had mine inspected several years in a row at different places and not once have I had any problem. Inspection stations do not need to see any title or anything else, only proof of insurance.
Hope this helps. Texas is a pretty easy state to get replicas titled/inspected. I can tell you they have stopped titleing them as 65/66. If you need proof, go downtown Houston to the main DMV and they have pictures of Cobras on the wall with warning signs to employees about titleing them.

Mark
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2007, 08:52 PM
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If you're in Austin, this is the second year in a row that DPS has been frankly awesome to work with. When I told them that I had a kit car, they told me to come in for an individual waiver. They run the emissions test (and remarkably, I passed the dilution portion), I signed an "individual waiver petition", and because of how they handle kit cars, I left with my inspection sticker. Vernon Cooks, Scott Hallman (who's recently left for another job, but is training the new guy) and Jay (the new guy) handled it, and knew their stuff and couldn't have been nicer.

Stickered and ready for 3/24 -

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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2007, 09:35 PM
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Pete52,

It sounds like you will receive your BDR a couple of weeks before I receive mine. Do you mind sharing the steps you will ultimately take to have it insured, inspected and registered?

I am still in Iraq and it is difficult at best to get any information of these topics from here. Thank God for this forum!!

Thanks,

Gun Doc
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2007, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 392cobra
Mine it titled and registered as :
Make - 2002 Lone Star Classic
Model - 1966 Cobra Replica

My Insurance Card has :
1966 Lone Star Classic Cobra
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober
Easy, the insurance card reads 65/66 and that is all that is required in Houston or as far as I know, all of Texas. Cost $12.50 for safety only. Had mine inspected several years in a row at different places and not once have I had any problem. Inspection stations do not need to see any title or anything else, only proof of insurance.
Hope this helps. Texas is a pretty easy state to get replicas titled/inspected. I can tell you they have stopped titleing them as 65/66. If you need proof, go downtown Houston to the main DMV and they have pictures of Cobras on the wall with warning signs to employees about titleing them.

Mark
Larry,
It looks like the easiest thing for you to do is get with your insurance co. and have them reissue your ins. card with the correct wording.
If they won't,there are plenty of others that will.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2007, 08:09 PM
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DPS (in Houston) told me that I did not need an emissions test, but had to pass the safety inspection, which requires an EGR, PCV, Evap System, and catalytic converts!!!!! Has anyone had to deal with that?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2007, 08:14 PM
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Safety inspection only includes tires, horn, wipers, mufflers, brakes, seat belts, brake lights, no large windshield cracks etc.

They should not care about emissions, cats, PCV etc. If so find another shop.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2007, 09:34 PM
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I've found that the DMV rarely knows their own rules. I had to print out documentation from TXDOTs website in order to get the clerks to approve my 1965 license plates for my Mustang. I had to go down there 3 times in Feb before they got it right.

I've found that if you keep all your paperwork neatly together and going back they'll eventually get you through.


My understanding of emissions on kits is that the state has the original manufacture’s specs and you must stay within a certain range of those specs throughout the life of the car. But when it comes to a kit (or turnkey minus) the state does not have the original specs (since the owner is technically the maker). So they have nothing to hold you to. I think that's why they allow you to go around it. I might be wrong, but that's the way it was explained to me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by zots
DPS (in Houston) told me that I did not need an emissions test, but had to pass the safety inspection, which requires an EGR, PCV, Evap System, and catalytic converts!!!!! Has anyone had to deal with that?
you would think they'd see plenty of cars with pre-1977 insurance cards and would know how to deal with them. Those guys clearly had no clue. Go to another shop.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2007, 07:36 AM
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Zots,
The only thing they may hassle you with is an emissions test and this only if the engine block is not at least 24 years old. If your block is newer you can get a waiver. (See post # 21 above).
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2007, 03:43 PM
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I just checked my engine block: It says its a Ford Racing Engine with the stamped code of D9TE therefore, it is a 1979 Truck from the Engine division - over 24 years old. I am relieved. So as I see it:
1. get an insurance card stating a 1966 Cobra Replica
2. Title as a 2000 assembled vehicle, Model: 1966 Cobra Replica
3. Get the thing inspected with an over 24 year old engine so no emissions.
4. Drive and have fun rather than looking at it in my garage and fretting about inspecting it.
Do I have this correct?
Thanks for all of your help.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2007, 04:49 PM
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Don't know if it is from a truck or not but it is a 1979.

Here is somemore info about your 1979 engine.

The day of the event 35 blocks were put to the test. The big block Ford had a production life from 1968 till 1996 and it was used in nearly all Ford fullsize cars and trucks during that time. Block castings from every era were present, C8VE-A,C9VE-A,DOVE-A,D1VE-A2A, D1VE-A2B, and D9TE blocks were tested. There were several Cobra Jet and Super Cobra Jet blocks with four bolt main caps and even one Boss 429 block in the mix. Blocks bearing marks from these 3 foundrys were all present at the block summit. The foundry marking is on the block at the top rear near the oil pressure tap boss. The marking that looks like CCP is the Cleveland Foundry, DIF is the Dearborn Foundry and finally MCC is Michigan otherwise known as the Flatrock Foundry. From what could be determined from the block summit data what that blocks were originally cast at Dearborn Iron Foundry at least until the D1VE and later castings when production was moved to Flatrock. Blocks were produced at Flatrock until the introduction of the D9TE block for 1979 when production was moved to Cleveland Cast Products till the end of production. What is interesting is how each foundry used unique tooling to produce the blocks each of which having unique and often special features. For instance, the DOVE-A blocks produced in the Dearborn foundry are the only ones cast with extra thick main webbing to allow for the factory instalation of 4 bolt main caps. Not all of the DOVE-A blocks have 4 bolt mains but they all have the provision for them. The D9TE blocks are cast with a cylinder wall that's .250 longer than other production blocks and this is an interesting feature. It's not known why the factory changed this but it is certainly a plus if long strokes are being run, giving the piston more support at BDC. (4.500 stroke 6.700 rod combinations work fine in all production blocks) SVO blocks also have this feature. Not to be left out, the D1VE blocks from the Michigan/Flatrock foundry are the most numerous and they were used in 429 and 460 production from about 1971till 1978.

Other production block features are: C8VE,C9VE and DOVE blocks all have a narrow pan rail. D1VE blocks can have a narrow pan rail but only in the AA version. AB or A2B blocks have a wider or unreleaved pan rail as do all D9TE blocks. Some DOVE-A blocks are cast with a large "A" on a square boss at the front of the block. Many of those particular blocks are also cast using Boss 429 bulkheads front and rear. This bulkhead has slightly more material under the front main cap than the regular bulkhead. Not all "Boss 9 bulkhead" DOVE-A's have the large "A". The rear bulkhead appears to be identical to other blocks with the exception of additional bosses near the rear cam bearing bore. In the actual Boss 429 block this additional material was used to accomidate the Boss 429's unique oiling system and also a bolt on cover instead of a drive in plug for the rear of the camshaft. None of the DOVE-A blocks are tapped or machined any different than regular production blocks in this area.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2007, 06:33 PM
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I've got a question....

What if you buy a used replica that is already titled as 1964 (buy it from another state that allows such titles), will TX allow you to transfer title and still call it a 1964? or do they make you call it a 2007?

Has anyone tired this in Texas?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2007, 08:39 PM
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You'll get a certificate of origin from your manufacturer. It should say something like "1965 Roadster Replica". I took that (which has a chassis number on it) to a Ford Dealership and they inspected it with the Green Sheet Inspection Form. Take that and your insurance card (you give your insurance man your Cert. of Origin as well) that states "1965 Roadster Replica" to your DMV and they will register it as that model year. You'll need photos of the car with you, as well as the bill of sale on the car or if you built it, the list of parts and receipts in order to pay your vehicle tax.

Dean
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2007, 10:35 AM
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I just completed this last month and got tags that day and my title two weeks later.

You'll need:
Manufacturers Certificate of Origin (MCO)
Kit receipt
Bill of sale for engine tranny
Picture of car
Checkbook to pay 6.25% tax

Form 130-U
-VIN - (I used the number provided on my kits MCO)
-Year - 1965
-Make - `07 Assembled
-Body Style - 2dr sedan
-Model - Roadster
-Name & SSN

Form VTR-301 - pencil tracing of VIN
Form VTR-61 - Rebuilt/Assembled affidavit
-Vehicle info (as above)
-Inspection green sheet
-Explanation (assembled vehicle)
-Owner Statement (obvious info)
-Page 2 Component Part info
-Frame and Body - Kit company
-Engine/Tranny - Bill of sale info
**Notorized at bottom that they can do at the Tax office
-Weight certification

Hope this helps.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 07:24 PM
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Default TX registration experinece today

I made a preliminary visit a week ago to a local oil change/inspection station. Wanted to see if he knew how to do the insp on a replica car. He did not, but he called the local DPS Waiver Station, and spoke to the inspector who was most knowledgeable about replicas. The major points:

1. Replica cars are legal, and may be inspected to the standards which were in place in the year they represent.
2. All of these special inspections are now required to be done at the DPS Waiver Stations .. not at the usual oil change places, etc.

So, I called the Plano waiver station, spoke to inspector "Dan" and made an appointment. He was very helpful and agreeable, although heavily booked. I had to wait 5 days, I think, for a slot. Then, due to mechanical probs .. had to ask for a reschedule twice .. he was agreeable and pleasant about it both times.

Discussing the car with Dan during the appointment, he asked why he was not seeing more cars. Where are they? Why aren't they coming here for inspections, they are supposed to? I said, "Dan, nobody knows ... and the Kwik Kars, etc, continue to inspect them."

End result, Dan drove around back with my car, I was not allowed to watch .. and returned 20 min later, sticker installed He gave me the "green sheet," which was white, to give to the title clerk. Dan said that I would have to bring my car there every year for the state inspection. I think this represents the 2008 process some members here have talked about.

Tip, I had made an extra 5x7 photo of the car (not required for the DPS) and gave that to Dan .. he was tickled to get it Very delighted with the car overall.

In Plano, the Collin Cty Tax Assessor is in the next building to the DPS Waiver Station., so I just walked over ..

The title process I went through closely resembled the one Don Gentry cites below. The exception being that they asked for pencil tracings of the body, frame, and engine. I maintained that the body and frame were bonded at the ERA factory and they were satisfied with one tracing for that. Then I had to execute a "visual inspecton form" that said that I had seen my engine VIN and that it was XXXXXXXXX. Fortunately, I had written down my engine VIN. I suppoes an engine block code would also work, if you were using a new block.

Key facts: Make is "2007 Assembled Vehicle," not whatever make it really is. VIN is your VIN off the MSO. And there is a block for "Replica" on the title where they will ask you what it is a replica of .. I said 1965 Ford. You must bring receipts for body, frame, engine .. tranny was not needed.

Ok, here comes the payoff .. there is no TX 6.25% sales tax on an "assembled vehicle" .. KA CHING!!! All I paid was $105 for the title and registration. I was expecting to write a check for 6.25% of the entire cost of the ERA rolling chassis

Summary .. not necessary to worry about convincing DPS or the Title clerk that you have a 1965 vehicle. The law says it can be built in the current year and replicate a 1965 car. Both the inspector and the title people did not need me to tell them that. And they came up with the assembled vehicle definition, I did not suggest it. I was attempting to call it a 2007 ERA. They vetoed that and said it was "assembled."

Total elapsed time: 45 min for the inspection and paperwork, and another 45 min for the title and registration. Stress factor: High! But the folks were polite, and interested in me getting my car registered and did not want to fail

Sam


Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Gentry
I just completed this last month and got tags that day and my title two weeks later.

You'll need:
Manufacturers Certificate of Origin (MCO)
Kit receipt
Bill of sale for engine tranny
Picture of car
Checkbook to pay 6.25% tax

Form 130-U
-VIN - (I used the number provided on my kits MCO)
-Year - 1965
-Make - `07 Assembled
-Body Style - 2dr sedan
-Model - Roadster
-Name & SSN

Form VTR-301 - pencil tracing of VIN
Form VTR-61 - Rebuilt/Assembled affidavit
-Vehicle info (as above)
-Inspection green sheet
-Explanation (assembled vehicle)
-Owner Statement (obvious info)
-Page 2 Component Part info
-Frame and Body - Kit company
-Engine/Tranny - Bill of sale info
**Notorized at bottom that they can do at the Tax office
-Weight certification

Hope this helps.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 08:32 PM
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My car titles as year 2002, Model 1965 Roadster. My insurance carrier put down 1965 Factory Five Racing because thats how I filled out the form. I have taken it to Goodyear since for the last three years, they see 65 and treat it as such. No emissions, they go nuts when the car arrives no worries

I used a vendor here in the forum

http://www.classicins.com/index.htm

My rate is $246 per year on 38K value and 3-5k miles per year, and keep it in a garage. Check it out...

JQ
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2007, 02:35 PM
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Default Cobra Inspection

Sam,

I live in Plano and have purchased a Backdraft Replica. I'm about to begin the titling, registration, and inspection process. Would you mind sharing how to get in touch with Dan so that I can schedule an inspection.

Thanks,

Nick
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2007, 03:23 PM
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Default DPS Waiver Contact

Nick, call Dan at 972-422-5428. Hours are M-F 8a - 5p. As a minimum, you need your insurance card. In preparation, I went in to the title office last week and paid $25 for a 30 day paper tag. Again, you just need the insurance proof. But I didn't want to drive to the inspection with NO tag.

If you want to do it all in one day, then fill out the title and registration forms that are enumerated above ahead of time. Don't forget the photo and engine vin/ser/block tracing.

I can't tell you if your BDR should be done via the assembled vehicle route. But if the MSO is like mine and says "composite vehicle" and you explain that you are installing the motor and tranny (or having it done), then it may be the same. Key would be to show invoices for that work that are separate from the "body and frame" invoice.

Good luck!
Sam
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:46 PM
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Sam,

Am I understanding you correctly...You did NOT have to pay the 6.25% sales tax? I registered my BDR a couple of months ago and was charged the 6.25%Initially the car was registered as a 2007 Backdraft/1965 Ford Replica. I recently received a title rejection/correction form in the mail. I took it to the county DMV and was told there had been a correction made and that I did not need to take any further action. My title would arrive in the mail in a few weeks. I compared the "old" application for title against the corrected copy and found that the vehicle type had been changed to 2007 ASVE, which I assume is 2007 assembled vehicle. Under the section addressing sales tax, the original breakdown was shown indicating I had paid tax on the rolling chassis price. I am now wondering if I am due a tax refund.

Gun Doc
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