Currie axle bearing leak

bktlist · #1 (**permalink**) 07-14-2013, 10:41 AM

Well I took my new LSC out for a spin yesterday to get some miles on the machine (up to 420) and when I got back and did a post ride inspeciton I found I am leaking oil out of the driver side rear axle bearing.

Not something I would expect so early but here I am. I need to chase LSC down for the part numbers but anyone have feedback on where they have gotten replace bearings (do you have to go to currie only) and also do any of Fort Worth club members have a suggstion on a local shop who can do the work - when it comes to opening up rear ends I outsource.

FWB · #2 (**permalink**) 07-14-2013, 11:03 AM

the bearing isn't the leak....the seal is......is it a 9" rear?

bktlist · #3 (**permalink**) 07-14-2013, 03:16 PM

yes its a 9"

Rick Parker · #4 (**permalink**) 07-14-2013, 07:44 PM

Use Timken Set 20 and never look back

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

The above is a Tapered cone bearing set capable of carrying more load and side thrust. I believe it was found in truck applications in OEM. It adapts to our usage because many of us like to carve corners, race and use copius amounts of HORSEPOWER.

The other application is a Roller Ball and is a little less expensive and is consequently used more often in passenger car application.

BKLIST: you have either a bad axle shaft seal or the outer bearing retainer is allowing lubricant to seep between it and the housing end that it bolts to, either one is not a real big fix but will neccesitate pulling the axle. You may also want to check the axle housing vent which is on the tube itself, the lubricant is forced into the axle tube in turns and could be forced out the vent(?).

Roush #1 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-14-2013, 09:32 PM

I would suggest you call Brian at Lone Star.

Tim Brewer · #6 (**permalink**) 07-14-2013, 09:54 PM

I'm sure Rick's advice is best, but remember, your rear end was just put together by Currie. even though it says Currie, they didn't manufacture it, it's just a Ford 9" and you can get anything you need from any parts store. Just say you have a '72 Thunderbird.

Roush #1 · #7 (**permalink**) 07-15-2013, 11:47 AM

I recall similar problems with Currie rear ends some time ago. I still would talk to Brian first as he is the one you bought it from and he should remember what steps were taken to correct the problem.

FWB · #8 (**permalink**) 07-15-2013, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bktlist

yes its a 9"

if you have a warrantee with the rear by all means call who you bought it from. if not, it is very easy to nic a seal when sliding an axle into the housing.

the seal is cheap to buy, but will require you to pull the axle to replace it.

it isn't rocket science ...if you don't want to tackle it yourself any competent garage has the know-how to do it.....maybe even while you wait...
call where you get your daily driver worked on.....

CowtownCobra · #9 (**permalink**) 07-15-2013, 05:03 PM

Could be many things. I had one that leaked for years until I cleaned up the cup the bearing race fits into. It came from Currie pretty buggered up. If everything is just right they don't leak, but it has to be complete (no missing seals?) and things just a few thousandths out of place give the fluid a way out. Good luck.

Skuzzy · #10 (**permalink**) 07-16-2013, 02:14 PM

If the race is not seated against the stop, in the tube, then a leak can easily develop.

bktlist · #11 (**permalink**) 07-16-2013, 05:19 PM

Thanks everyone for the advice. I trying to get hold of Brian to find out the history on who did what on my rear end / brake package before I got it from LSC to determine if this could have impact the problem. I checked the vent and it looks fine / working. Currie believes the seal just got knicked during installation and is the issue.

I have done some review of the tear down / reinstall and does not look as difficult as I thought so may take a go at replacing this over the weekend. The one activity mentioned is the need to press off/on the bearing. Appreciate any advice on tools required to do this so I can think this through and make a plan.

FWB · #12 (**permalink**) 07-16-2013, 06:06 PM

you will need a slide hammer axle puller to start. if the bearing is ok you won't need to replace it or worry about taking it on or off. if not i never mess with them myself i usually take it and let a napa or garage press it on and off for me.......can be a pain in the gonadial region if you don't have a good press available.

but rather straight forward, get the brakes out of the way unbolt the flange and pull the axle, pull the seal, put new seal in i use some goo to be sure it doesn't seep at the housing and carefully push the axle back in....

just keep the side of the car your pulling the axle from higher than the other side.......gear fluid smells bad when its on you...kinda lingers.. there should be some holes in the axle hub to get a socket in there to get at the flange

Jerry Clayton · #13 (**permalink**) 07-17-2013, 07:15 AM

You won't need a slide hammer axle puller---turn the brake disc around backwards on the studs and just loosely start the nuts--it will give you enough room to take both hands on the disc and bang it outwards/backwards on the studs which will hammer out the axle--becomes clear when you get the disc on ---of course you gotta have the axle retainer lplate bolts undone---

FWB · #14 (**permalink**) 07-17-2013, 08:16 AM

nice tip........i have to remember that........actually i have never pulled an axle with a disc rear.......

bktlist · #15 (**permalink**) 07-18-2013, 08:12 PM

Got hold of LSC and they told me I ended up with a Moser instead of a Currie due to delivery challenges so looks like I need to update my BOM and re-name this thread.

CowtownCobra · #16 (**permalink**) 07-19-2013, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skuzzy

If the race is not seated against the stop, in the tube, then a leak can easily develop.

Skuzzy, I can't remember what year that was you helped me fix mine, but its still good!

When are you going to put your heap of parts together?

Skuzzy · #17 (**permalink**) 07-22-2013, 12:58 PM

My garage foundation is laid.

We have a move-in date of 11/15 this year. I hope to have it in driving condition by next spring. Paint and interior tidbits will come in the fall.

All subject to change, at a moments notice, due to any number of overwhelming circumstances always beyond control of the builder.

I have to admit. I am getting excited about the prospect of finally getting to build the car I have wanted for over 45 years.

Told the Wife, after we move in, not to expect to see me for months, unless she comes out out the garage.

Glad to hear that read end is holding up. It has been a couple of years since we worked on it. That was fun.

bktlist · #18 (**permalink**) 08-17-2013, 08:32 AM

Got the seal replaced - the one installed had a good roll on the bottom. Appreciate the tips on how to do this - Jacked up the one side I was working on and keep all the fluid in the axle and did not spill a drop. Had a little struggle on putting the new seal in - mashed one up - but got a loaner Ball Joint press kit from O'Reilys that had a sleeve just the right size to knock the seal back.