Need Help with Transmission Install

[RockBit]

I have tried twice to get the transmission in my Cobra and was unsuccessful both times. It will go until it needs another inch and then stops.

I have the back of the engine raised, and made two pins by cutting off the bolt heads per Doug at ERA. These are in the top two holes of the bell housing.

I have an aluminum FE, Quick Time bell, McLeod twin disc clutch, and Tremec TKO 600. Prior to both install attempts I aligned everything carefully with the alignment pin furnished with the clutch.

Is there anyone in the a north Dallas area that would be willing to come by and help? My location is near Royal and 75.

Thanks a bunch.

[Grubby]

1" short of going in would seem to indicate the input went into the clutch disk.

Just to ask the obvious; there are two input shaft lengths and also two depths of bellhousings for the FE. It might be worth while to post the bell part number and measure the input shaft. You could also confirm the depth from bell face to crankshaft and see if the input looks like the right length.

John

[H-Rod]

Check your PM

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by Grubby

1" short of going in would seem to indicate the input went into the clutch disk.

Just to ask the obvious; there are two input shaft lengths and also two depths of bellhousings for the FE. It might be worth while to post the bell part number and measure the input shaft. You could also confirm the depth from bell face to crankshaft and see if the input looks like the right length.

John

After the first fail, I measured everything carefully to make sure the input shaft length was not the problem. Based on my measurements, the should be about an 1/8 inch clearance between the end of the shaft and the crankshaft when everything is snugged up. Based on this, I realigned the clutches and tried again.

[dallas_]

Not sure I can help, but will be glad to drop by and try.
John

Also... are you using a plastic clutch alignment tool?

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by dallas_

Not sure I can help, but will be glad to drop by and try.
John

Also... are you using a plastic clutch alignment tool?

Yes, plastic alignment tool that came with the clutch.

H-Rod is coming by later, so maybe we will get it done. I'll let everyone know.

Thanks!

[dallas_]

ok, sounds good. I could not get my transmission in using the plastic tool.

I have a TKO 600 input shaft that aligns the clutch much better if you want to try that.

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by dallas_

ok, sounds good. I could not get my transmission in using the plastic tool.

I have a TKO 600 input shaft that aligns the clutch much better if you want to try that.

That sounds good. If we can't get it in I may want to borrow it.

[PeteF]

I had that happen once using the plastic alignment tool. It did not center the clutch disc properly. I solved it by hooking up the clutch slave cylinder, and once you are sure the trans splines are into the clutch disc, release the clutch to allow the disc to center, and it will slip right in.

[SSSammy]

Chris, ERAs must use the 1/2" spacer between a Lakewood BH and a T600, I don't know if it is needed with the QuickTime. That's if the T600 has the standard input shaft, not the short one like I have in my Kirkham.

The plastic alignment tool won't hold the clutch plates straight enough. John's actual input shaft would be the best. Your input shaft is probably hitting the edge of the hole in the pilot bushing.

Also, the BH hole for the trans has to be centered on the crank. This is done with a dial indicator magnetically attached to the flywheel before the clutch goes on. Then the block pins need to be changed to offset pins if the alignment is more than .005" out. Then when all is aligned the BH comes back off and the clutch assembly goes in.

I can come down during the weekend if you still need help. I have a dial indicator also.

Sam

[RockBit]

Well, despite a valiant attempt, H-Rod and I could not get it to go. We tried it, them removed the bell housing and pressure plate to realign with the plastic tool, put it back together, and still no go.

It sounds like the end of the shaft is hitting the pilot bushing.

Sssammy - I dialed the bell housing in before putting the engine in the car. It is .0035, and it repeated the second time I did it. I'm confident the BH.is well aligned. I checked the length of the input shaft and should not need a spacer.

I guess the next thing to try is Dallas' input shaft for alignment.

[Texasdoc]

Originally Posted by PeteF

I had that happen once using the plastic alignment tool. It did not center the clutch disc properly. I solved it by hooking up the clutch slave cylinder, and once you are sure the trans splines are into the clutch disc, release the clutch to allow the disc to center, and it will slip right in.

This. This is how I did mine when it stuck. Pulled the clutch fork with a ratchet strap - which allowed the clutch disk to move a bit - and the tranny went right in.

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by Texasdoc

This. This is how I did mine when it stuck. Pulled the clutch fork with a ratchet strap - which allowed the clutch disk to move a bit - and the tranny went right in.

TexasDoc - good idea. I'll try that in the morning.

Thanks!

[RET_COP]

TexasDoc has it. The disk is slightly off center pulling the shaft out of alignment, as long as the shaft is through the disk splines you can release it and push the trans shaft (transmission) into the pilot bushing.

[1795]

Great to see such support and effort from the community. Not just ideas over the web, but a little bit of hands-on assistance as well. It feels good to grab your tool bag and help another cobra owner out. I have done it a few times.

[jkg2101]

I've had this problem many times including when installing the toploader in my fe last month. The key is usually getting the clutch disc to release from pressure plate, by activating the clutch mechanism. With the trans in place part way you can activate the slave cylinder. Then jiggle and push by hand only and it will eventually go. Don't use bolts to pull it in (which I am always tempted to do).

One time on a chevy I found the aftermarket crank had squeezed the pilot bushing so it was too tight. I had to use some grinding grease (might be wrong name) with a metal input shaft tool to open up the pilot bushing a bit. That is probably rare and the symptom there was the trans would not release from engine when I pressed the clutch.

Last month I was sure there was something wrong when I couldn't seat my trans all the way. My dad, who is older and probably wiser, told me to have more patience and stick with the plan. I was ready to give up. Then it finally just slid in

[CHANMADD]

Ok..... Make sure the gearbox is in 2nd gear........when it gets to the point it stops , try turning the driveshaft , so that it turns the input shaft .. sometimes they hang up on the splines and you will need to jiggle the shaft to get it in...

[CHANMADD]

And use a roller bearing for the pilot ...not s bushing...

[dallas_]

Originally Posted by RockBit

I guess the next thing to try is Dallas' input shaft for alignment.

I'm pretty close to you, so let me know and I'll bring it over.

[JRoss]

That plastic alignment tool rarely ever works with a twin disc clutch. Get the steel alignment tool and you should be fine.

John