Knock-offs won't come off...

[427 Street]

Doing this on my phone so I apologize for errors. Shop just called and said they cannot get them off...they are using my Trigo lead hammer. I first asked if they are going in the right direction.

They were off in November at my exhaust shop and he said he used anti-seize.

Any suggestions or tricks! Curt at Trigo said heat but you have to know the trick.

Any help/links is appreciated.

[427 Street]

They got them off!

[rodneym]

427 Street,
I have a Trigo hammer and have found it to be on the lighter side of knock-off hammers, IMHO.
The shop doesn't have a slightly heavier lead hammer?
Sorry for not being more of an immediate help.

[rodneym]

Well?
Let me guess, they were afraid to whack em?

[HI Cobra]

My 6 lb American lead hammer works just fine. Had one wheel that hadn't
been off in a few years - took a few whacks, but no problem.

[427 Street]

Originally Posted by rodneym

Well?
Let me guess, they were afraid to whack em?

YOU GOT IT!!!!

My contact there called me up and said..."All of these guys are huddled around your car and our one old-timer walked up and said 'Give me that hammer! You boys don't know how to get these things off!'"

Two hits and they spun off.

[mikiec]

Gotta love the old guys...

[427 Street]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Gotta love the old guys...

No kidding...we need more old guys

[dwathencars]

Being a fan of wire wheels on cars, and British sports cars, I have lots of wheel stories including a front wheel stripping the splines during hard breaking on an XK150 and almost coming off. One thing I've learned is to use a big dead blow hammer which seems to impart more force without damaging the chrome on the knockoff. Dave

[bret a ewing]

Had an issue with a concours '66 Corvette with original Kelsey Hays KO's. Car was purchased and shown for years before the original style redlines needed to be replaced due to dry rot.
The wheels were frozen to the hubs.
After soaking the assemblies with penetrating oil for a few days and beating the crap out of the spinners we bought the KO adapter that fits over the spinner and hung on it with a 4' breaker bar.........no dice.
Then we tried the appropriate heat and cold (liquid nitrogen) applications to no avail.
So I got creative...........we put a guy in the car to keep his foot on the brakes. Next, using a race jack with the rubber pad insert we carefully put pressure on the appropriate "OFF" direction ear of the spinner. We actually lifted one corner off the ground because it was so stubborn. And THEN hit the opposite ear with the BMF lead hammer...........it took a lot of shots but slowly it released and we were able to get all of them off.
The wheels/hubs never had antiseize applied to the parts.

The final option was not a pretty one if this did not work, ....ah, involving a die grinder, if you know what I mean.

Hope this helps.

Bret.

[Whodeeny]

I am close to completing my Cobra. The car has the 6 pin pin-drive wheels. I don't have a lead hammer yet to remove the wheels. I have been using a conventional hammer with a 2 X 4 block on top of the knock off to strike the hammer against. I am wondering rather than a lead hammer, which will deteriorate and need replacement after several uses, would a dead blow hammer work just as well? These can be purchased a Harbor Freight for less than $10. Thoughts and advice?
BD

[twobjshelbys]

Lead. The lead becomes the sacrifice. If you use dead blow the wing becomes sacrifice. Better to replace hammer head than spinner

If you use it that much that you need to rebuild it you're using it too much or tightening too much. You should get 10 times plus or minus on all 4 wheels if you tighten to the pound where the sound changes pitch.

Ps don't forget anti seize

[hauss]

Just want you all to know I tried the dead blow until my hands blistered! a two by four 10 times split every one! purchased a mother thumper 6lbs hammer and the 911 tool torqued way past the 25 lb limit. 50 wacks with the lead hammer and finally got them off! I now use copper never seize and 3 wacks on each ear with safety wire and have no more problems. Had to polish the knock offs again but they are all looking good.

[Whodeeny]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Lead. The lead becomes the sacrifice. If you use dead blow the wing becomes sacrifice. Better to replace hammer head than spinner

If you use it that much that you need to rebuild it you're using it too much or tightening too much. You should get 10 times plus or minus on all 4 wheels if you tighten to the pound where the sound changes pitch.

Ps don't forget anti seize

The wing nut shouldn't be damaged with a dead blow hammer should it? The dead blow hammer is made of hard rubber. Anyway, I will buy a proper lead hammer.
Thanks.
BD

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by Whodeeny

The wing nut shouldn't be damaged with a dead blow hammer should it? The dead blow hammer is made of hard rubber. Anyway, I will buy a proper lead hammer.
Thanks.
BD

American Hammer lead mallet. Come the time, they will "rebuild" it for a really good price too (it costs alot to ship lead )

I bought mine when the owner was here and made a really good deal for forum members. It's still pretty good given what they have. They even included a little brass hammer that they said was intended to be decorative but in fact is also functional (and I have used it and it's in the toolbox and not on a table)

[Kit Coyle]

I think people tighten the knockoffs TOO MUCH. Use anti-seize and don't
beat the piss out of them!

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by Whodeeny

The wing nut shouldn't be damaged with a dead blow hammer should it? The dead blow hammer is made of hard rubber. Anyway, I will buy a proper lead hammer.
Thanks.
BD

A dead blow hammer doesn't provide the required force that lead does... Also, regarding applying heat, a local guy with a Superformance had a shop use heat and a lead hammer for a stubborn spinner and managed to singe the paint on his wheel...Damn!!! Lesson learned is that even a great mechanic shop that does awesome work on his daily driver isn't necessarily going to know how to deal with these unconventional cars.

[snapier]

I purchased the (Spinner 9-1-1) knock off spinner removal tool from Cobra Valley. This tool takes the headache out of stuck spinner removal.

[DanEC]

I will second Kevins2 that fooling around with dead blow hammers, 2x4s, etc is a complete waste of time on KO wheels. Use a 6 lb lead hammer. Unless you are 250 lbs of pure muscle you shouldn't do any damage to your knock off spinners with a good lead hammer. Also be sure the weight of the car is on the wheels and the wheels on the ground when first loosening the spinners. Otherwise you are just beating your suspension components to bits. I have a Vette with KOs and my ERA. Used to put a piece of plywood on the ear of the Corvette spinner to protect the chrome when striking it with the little lead hammer supplied with the wheels - until I found one loosened up one day. No more of that - I got a 6 lb MT hammer and hammered them on - lead directly on chrome. I've never found a mark on any of my spinners from it.

[rodneym]

[IMG][/IMG]

This has never failed.