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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2008, 04:53 PM
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I used all that other "trick" stuff and found that white shoe polish worked best. It was much easier to apply, too. Only problem is there's little flex. Notice the cracking in the center of the lettering. This only happened to the taller 295s. The lower profilet 215's at front didn't crack because of less sidewall flex. This is how lettered tires look after a few laps anyhow. A little touch up with the shoe polish put them back into show condition.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 02:55 PM
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Just an update...I got my tires painted up with the Ranger paint over the weekend. I found that using this paing with a small flathead brush was much easier than the Hot Tire pens. I will say however that it tool longer than suspected...you probably need at least three coats. The good news is that is drys very fast so you can two or three lettters and a time and go back and put the additional coats on while you start the new lettering.

I will take some pics tonight...I hope this stuff holds up.

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the great update on that! I just got my Ranger paint in the mail. I plan to take off each tire, lay if flat and take my time. Look like I'll need a small flat brush, maybe several...
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2008, 06:50 PM
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Just a thought but what about using white RTV?

You can thin it with naptha and apply with some of those throw-away artist's brushes.

Seems like the best thing to paint rubber with is... rubber.

Personally, I kinda like the crummy factory lettering. I have no idea why...

Possibly, mixing white artist's oil paint in rubber cement would make a great paint as well.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2008, 08:49 PM
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I will share one thing that has worked real well while applying the paint (I used an opaque white pen). I removed the tire/wheel from the car to make it easier to access to all the letters around the tire. After 2 coats and allowing a short amount of time to dry, I used a small block with 180 grit sandpaper and used it to scuff the raised borders of the letters. I found this to define a real sharp edge with a minimum of effort. I have done this on a couple of different occasions and I too like the "aged appearance" VS the "bright white", the brittleness of the paint allows cracks to form from sidewall flex. I guess we need flexible paint.
I seriously wonder if regular automotive paint could be mixed and if the proper amount of "Flex Agent" would create a paint that could be used that wouldn't crack????


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Last edited by Rick Parker; 05-23-2008 at 09:11 PM..
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kramer View Post
Just an update...I got my tires painted up with the Ranger paint over the weekend. I found that using this paing with a small flathead brush was much easier than the Hot Tire pens. I will say however that it tool longer than suspected...you probably need at least three coats. The good news is that is drys very fast so you can two or three lettters and a time and go back and put the additional coats on while you start the new lettering.

I will take some pics tonight...I hope this stuff holds up.

Kramer
Please share ANY pictures you took that night.

Ok, OK just the tire pictures...
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 03:43 PM
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Hey guys, any up date on the tire paint from "Roger" or the other products ?
Thanks,
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 05:52 PM
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FUN,
That's "Ranger" and it works well and lasts very well.
Tips:
Remove orig letters with lacquer thinner and 4 O steel wool. Won't harm rubber.
Thin 60% with isopropl alcohol. Apply by hand with narrow foam brush. Don't forget the stencil spaces of the original letters. First coat will look thin. Second coat will make them brighter. A third coat and they scream off the tire. Looks too neat IMHO.

Liking the used, race tire original look, I did one thin coat and when dry (1 hour at most) I lightly steel wooled them which made them softer white and let some of the tire surface texture come through. A few weeks of brake dust and exhaust blast and they took on that 'used race car' look. Slightly gray and faded but not that ugly yellow-brown of the original. You can even clean them a little with the isopropl.
You can easily remove with alcohol (but not water) and start over, touch up or renew any time.
Best view is the 1st one in my gallery.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 04:02 PM
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Here are closeups:


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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 08:34 PM
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Hey Chas,

I updated my gallery so you can see the finished tires. I don't know if I figured this out, but here is the picture..

<img src="http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/Cobra_Front_Drivers_side.JPG" />
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 08:38 PM
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trying again..

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 08:40 PM
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here is another pic

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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 04:02 PM
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Kramer,
Forget the tires-the CAR looks spectacular. The comp w'shield makes it and the color looks like a finely brushed tin car.
Excellent.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 04:19 PM
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I agree with Chas, wonderful car !!!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 05:57 PM
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Kramer, how well has the ranger paint worked out ?
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