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04-22-2009, 02:27 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brooksville,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison Gen IV, 427FE
Posts: 32
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Not Ranked
Safety wiring knock offs
I'm sure this must have been addressed many times, but I didn't see the subject on the forum currently, so here it goes.
Can anyone give some advise on how to safety wire the spinner on pin drive wheels?
I have been driving for about 1.5 years now (6500 miles) and have never had a problem with the spinner backing off. I use an 8 lb. rubber slap hammer. Haven't found a 10 lb lead hammer that was recommended to me yet. Works fine and I don't mar the wheels.
That said, I know tracks require safety wire and who can argue that it must be more secure.
I've got the wire and the plyers and I have the theory. As with all things there must be some practical wisdom on the subject out there, and that's what I'm looking for.
Some photos would be very illuminating.
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04-22-2009, 02:36 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbracker
Some photos would be very illuminating.
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http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...tructions.html
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04-22-2009, 02:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby CSX4005LA, Roush 427IR
Posts: 5,573
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbracker
I'm sure this must have been addressed many times, but I didn't see the subject on the forum currently, so here it goes.
Can anyone give some advise on how to safety wire the spinner on pin drive wheels?
I have been driving for about 1.5 years now (6500 miles) and have never had a problem with the spinner backing off. I use an 8 lb. rubber slap hammer. Haven't found a 10 lb lead hammer that was recommended to me yet. Works fine and I don't mar the wheels.
That said, I know tracks require safety wire and who can argue that it must be more secure.
I've got the wire and the plyers and I have the theory. As with all things there must be some practical wisdom on the subject out there, and that's what I'm looking for.
Some photos would be very illuminating.
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There are two schools of thought:
1. The conventional safety stuff I've seen everywhere says the wire should be applied in the direction that would tighten the nut. So if you are on a clockwise thread (right turn) the wire should be applied to a wheel spoke in the same clockwise direction so as to pull the hub (to prevent it from losening). Some even put a little loop in the middle so that it as it loosens it tightens the cable and the slack goes away.
2. The other school of though is that you apply the wire in the other direction such that loosening provides slack that you can see.
Remember, on the track or on the road, #2 only happens before the drive and after. During the drive #1 always works. While driving the safety wire might even prevent the hub from falling off. The small loop to detect loosening is maybe a good idea but if the shift is sudden it is a weak point and the wire could snap and lose the protection.
In practice safety wires are used to keep the nut tight. Often in places where visual inspection is difficult.
I will be rewiring mine to #1.
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04-22-2009, 02:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brooksville,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison Gen IV, 427FE
Posts: 32
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Not Ranked
Thanks
Exactly what the doc ordered. Perfect.
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04-22-2009, 04:25 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Covington,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance # 532, 466 BB, 560HP
Posts: 3,027
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Not Ranked
Here's mine.
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04-24-2009, 05:45 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brooksville,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison Gen IV, 427FE
Posts: 32
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Not Ranked
Nice
I like the rubber tube around the spoke to keep the wire from scratching the wheel.
As with all safety wire I think it should keep the nut tight. The opposite direction idea / loosening indicator, doesn't make too much sense to me.
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04-24-2009, 06:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Ex CSX3327, & AK7113 AutoKraft AC MK IV
Posts: 458
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Not Ranked
Rick, pass the pop corn and chill another 12 pack, Jim
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04-24-2009, 08:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: fremont,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: superformance/427 fe ford
Posts: 436
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Not Ranked
wired
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbracker
I like the rubber tube around the spoke to keep the wire from scratching the wheel.
As with all safety wire I think it should keep the nut tight. The opposite direction idea / loosening indicator, doesn't make too much sense to me.
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if you do the wire in the proper direction , but leave a small arch in the wire, you can tell if the spinner is coming loose by the wire becoming tight.
__________________
1952 MG TD - 53 HP 1970 SS454 Chevelle - 900hp 2007 spo2669 - 485hp 2001 Spclconst. softtail - 114HP 2006 Roadglide - 88HP
sold Roadglide.....bought 09 XR 1200 - 90 hp stock
i would rather live one day as a lion, than one thousand days as a lamb.
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04-26-2009, 12:39 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Temuka,
NZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch build, with help
Posts: 116
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by twobjshelbys
There are two schools of thought:
1. The conventional safety stuff I've seen everywhere says the wire should be applied in the direction that would tighten the nut. So if you are on a clockwise thread (right turn) the wire should be applied to a wheel spoke in the same clockwise direction so as to pull the hub (to prevent it from losening). Some even put a little loop in the middle so that it as it loosens it tightens the cable and the slack goes away.
2. The other school of though is that you apply the wire in the other direction such that loosening provides slack that you can see.
Remember, on the track or on the road, #2 only happens before the drive and after. During the drive #1 always works. While driving the safety wire might even prevent the hub from falling off. The small loop to detect loosening is maybe a good idea but if the shift is sudden it is a weak point and the wire could snap and lose the protection.
In practice safety wires are used to keep the nut tight. Often in places where visual inspection is difficult.
I will be rewiring mine to #1.
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Aircraft industry only ever uses #1 and it is under tension, no slack.
NOB's get there butts kicked if they try #2, like running round the hanger with a sign telling everyone they are a dic* head
__________________
Maurice
researching for scratch build
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04-26-2009, 06:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 999
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by csx wnab
if you do the wire in the proper direction , but leave a small arch in the wire, you can tell if the spinner is coming loose by the wire becoming tight.
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This is the way we do all ours for racing. The wire will not keep the nut tight but it will keep it from coming off and it is an easy check.
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04-26-2009, 11:17 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Abe Lincolns Birthplace,
Ky
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX4761, KCR Shelby Alloy 496,760hp
Posts: 867
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Not Ranked
I would think the left/right threads should keep the wingnut from becoming loose.Although I think you need a lead hammer,I wouldn't think rubber has enough enertia to do the trick.
I have a hard time getting my wires to look right . I see all these safety wires that look like artwork and my look like twist ties on a loaf of bread. I would love any advice I can get on a doing a neat tie.
Tk
__________________
Tk
"this whole Adult thing just isnt working for me "
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04-26-2009, 02:33 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by misfit41
I would love any advice I can get on a doing a neat tie.
Tk
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Do you use the dedicated safety wire piers? You clamp them on the ends of the wire and then pull in the middle and they spin around and do it all for you. It's very easy with the pliers. If I had to do it with a set of regular pliers, it would like a crappy twist-tab on a loaf of bread.
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04-26-2009, 08:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby CSX4005LA, Roush 427IR
Posts: 5,573
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Not Ranked
Where to get the pliers?
Like I said I decided to rewire mine. My front spinners have wires, rears are gone (although I can see marks where they were wired).
One front tire is correct (pulling to tighten), one is backwards.
I went to Boulder today to get some sweet corn (25c/ear) and brats (99c/lb) and stopped by Home Depot to get the pliers and lead mallet. Thad neither.
So, what is the best place to get the wire/pliers and mallet?
I'd just as well do it as I've decided that I'm going to re-do everything. Due to the unknown origin I'll probably get one of the spinner pullers too rather than take a chance knocking them off the first time. Since the wires are gone on the rear I'm guessing they were pulled at least once.
My speedo is off too so I went looking for the gear. My tires are Goodyear 295/50x15 which are hard to come by here too.
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04-26-2009, 08:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Syracuse NY,
ny
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 208, 428CJ
Posts: 166
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbracker
I like the rubber tube around the spoke to keep the wire from scratching the wheel.
As with all safety wire I think it should keep the nut tight. The opposite direction idea / loosening indicator, doesn't make too much sense to me.
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Just another idea..... I used 3M tape and wrapped it around the spoke where I was going to wrap the safety wire and it worked really well....kept the wheel from getting scratched and you really can't see it.
Mike
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04-26-2009, 09:12 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Santa Cruz,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2613 Titanium w/Black, Roush 402SR
Posts: 4,097
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by twobjshelbys
Like I said I decided to rewire mine. My front spinners have wires, rears are gone (although I can see marks where they were wired).
One front tire is correct (pulling to tighten), one is backwards.
I went to Boulder today to get some sweet corn (25c/ear) and brats (99c/lb) and stopped by Home Depot to get the pliers and lead mallet. Thad neither.
So, what is the best place to get the wire/pliers and mallet?
I'd just as well do it as I've decided that I'm going to re-do everything. Due to the unknown origin I'll probably get one of the spinner pullers too rather than take a chance knocking them off the first time. Since the wires are gone on the rear I'm guessing they were pulled at least once.
My speedo is off too so I went looking for the gear. My tires are Goodyear 295/50x15 which are hard to come by here too.
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twobjshelbys,
I bought my lead hammer through Finish Line.
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...hammer&x=0&y=0
I think there's better deals (I believe Harbor Freight offers one).
Safety pliers:
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...ef97d897f3c5d8
Wire:
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...ef97d897f3c5d8
BTW - You can also find everything you need and Performance Unlimited.
http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...ls/hammer.html
__________________
Doug
No stop signs, speed limit - Nobody's gonna slow me down - Like a wheel, gonna spin it
Last edited by Got the Bug; 04-26-2009 at 10:28 PM..
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04-27-2009, 05:19 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Middle Of Nowhere,
USA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 428 FE 4-speed CR "TL" heavy spline
Posts: 3,907
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbracker
I'm sure this must have been addressed many times, but I didn't see the subject on the forum currently, so here it goes.
Can anyone give some advise on how to safety wire the spinner on pin drive wheels?
I have been driving for about 1.5 years now (6500 miles) and have never had a problem with the spinner backing off. I use an 8 lb. rubber slap hammer. Haven't found a 10 lb lead hammer that was recommended to me yet. Works fine and I don't mar the wheels.
That said, I know tracks require safety wire and who can argue that it must be more secure.
I've got the wire and the plyers and I have the theory. As with all things there must be some practical wisdom on the subject out there, and that's what I'm looking for.
Some photos would be very illuminating.
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I just ordered a kit from the outfit noted above - Wire, Pliers & Twister - also ordered the Spinner Eaze Lubricant.
I just put new Billboards on my Cobra and for some reason the front tires started to come loose - it was sort of scary, but I noticed it in time - but, it's time to make it safe.
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04-27-2009, 05:57 PM
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Senile Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Buffalo, NY USA,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBo
Rick, pass the pop corn and chill another 12 pack, Jim
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DAmn, my popcorn machine is down......the safety wire was backwards!!!!!
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04-27-2009, 07:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Perrysburg,
OH
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #298 427 FI
Posts: 497
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Not Ranked
you can get the saftey wire from an airplane supply place for a lot less http://www.aircraftspruce.com/
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04-27-2009, 08:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Houston,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR#722 Red/Black stripes- Keith Craft 408/TKO 600
Posts: 23
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Not Ranked
Safety wire and pliers
Check on ebay, reasonable pricing new and some used. Prices varied from $9.99 to over $90.00.
am6948
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04-28-2009, 12:04 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jacksonville,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham #570 w Shelby FE
Posts: 1,009
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Got the Bug
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The hammer finishline sells looks like it's from American Hammer, I picked one up on ebay for $25 +10 shipping. (6lb)
The American hammer has a special design that they claim actually tightens the head to the handle as it's used. Also the lady I bought it from said the hammer can be returned to A.H. for head re-casting free of charge for life.
I've seen these also labled "Imperial Hammer", very well made piece. I just picked up the wire and pliers at the Harbour freight store here for somwhere around $35 for both.
I also bought a 4lb composite hammer from Northern tool as the Kirkham guys said they hold up better than the lead ones, since they use these in production they must hold up pretty well.
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