Safety wiring knock offs

[patrickt]

... a good lead hammer is a pretty handy tool -- you might just end up using it more than you think (and on stuff other than your spinners). I used it not too long ago to break the bolts loose on a stuck caliper -- it's perfect for whacking the end of your wrench when you can't really get the leverage that you need and you can't get something else in there (like an impact wrench). It doesn't bounce off the wrench and it delivers a good "shock."

[misfit41]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Do you use the dedicated safety wire piers? You clamp them on the ends of the wire and then pull in the middle and they spin around and do it all for you. It's very easy with the pliers. If I had to do it with a set of regular pliers, it would like a crappy twist-tab on a loaf of bread.

I do have the pliers and a couple different sizes of wire . I suppose I just need to practice more .The ties I do so far end up looking terrible.
I will say I haven't had a problem with nuts coming loose which is why I recommend the lead hammer and lots of anti seize.

thanks for the help,Tk

[Larry N Johnson]

Lynn Park former Trigo owner told me this on the phone:

1. Tighten spinner.
2. On a wing, drill 2 small holes.
3. On the spoke directly straight in, drill one small hole.
4. Apply safety wire thru spinner, twist w tool the length to the spoke.
5. Run one wire thru the hole in the spoke.
6. Twist again.
7. Cut off excess.
8. Fold second twist under the spoke.

Result, if the spinner moves either way, you can easily spot it.

If you look close to this image, you can see the "straight in" wire at the 1 o'clock position.




PS
I witnessed Vintage Sports Car Races and the Cobra racing used no safety wire. Food for thought.

[patrickt]

... next time when your spinner hole doesn't line up with your freshly drilled wheel hole? Do you have to drill the wheel again?

[Larry N Johnson]

Easy.

Clock the wheel the same way. If it does not line up, move the wheel.
It will always line up the same. Spinner threads are the same.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Larry N Johnson

Easy.

Clock the wheel the same way. If it does not line up, move the wheel.
It will always line up the same. Spinner threads are the same.

Hmmm, ok... Can I just keep doing it the way I've always done it?

[Larry N Johnson]

Reality #1: Racing Cobras do not use "safety wire".
Reality #2: "Safety wire" spinners can be done many ways.

Whatever gives you peace of mind is the "right way".

[Johan]

Right on Larry

[Bill Bess]

Anti-seize grease on the nut threads, use a lead hammer to tighten and SS wire to make sure the nuts don't move. The wire is a good "quick visual check" when walking around the car to indicate if the wheel nut is still tight.

No worry , no problems.
Bill

[Maurice Butler]

the number of twists per inch is important as well, too many weakens the wire, 8-10 twists/per inch is a good start

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire

http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilots...safetywire.htm

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html




also remember to fold the tail so the cut end is where it won't rip you hands open cleanning

[twobjshelbys]

Well, I finally got motivated to do this project. I took a few days off because vacation time was built up. There is a little local car show tomorrow so I decided to clean the wheels. I was also concerned that the spinners had been put on without any anti-seize - which indeed they had not.

I bought the American Hammer 6lb lead hammer from the other post.

The rear wheels were not wired. I smacked the spinner on each blade a few times and it started to loosen. Then on one after that and they came right off.

Next to clean the wheels and wax them (they were painted the stripe color), reinstall and wire. Then to the fronts.

[dcdoug]

The first time I took my wheels off (they had not been put on with anti-seize either) I didnt have a lead hammer and used a mini sledge with a 2x4. Serious PITA. In fact so much so that I only took 2 off (wheel weights had come loose on those 2).

The next time I bought a lead hammer and removed them all. Even the ones without antiseize came off easy as pie. HUGE difference.

[HI Cobra]

I got the American hammer a few months ago after reading the thread on it.
Finally got to use it on my last visit to Texas. Tried a 2 lb stone maul with a 2x4, which did nothing. 2 easy whacks with the 6 lbs of lead made a big difference. Also when you tighten it you can feel when it is home. I can see
where that inertia of that lead will come in handy for more than wheels.
The safety wiring worked more easily then I anticipated. The pliers I got from Harbor Freight (6" and 9" on sale now for about $10 btw). They worked fine and should be fine for the limited use on my Cobra. I got the .041 wire but need to get the .034 for the caliper bolts (small holes!) I have some friends who wrench on planes that I can get a few feet of that wire over a shared beer.
Life is good!

Good thread

[twobjshelbys]

I got the Harbor Freight pliers too with .041 wire. My wheels are painted the same color as the stripes (yellow) and the wires had worn the paint off. I saw an earlier post with something to shield the wheel from the wire (the first picture.) So after I got everything cleaned and put back on the car I ran down to Home Depot to look for some yellow wire. Found some 14ga yellow. I pulled out the copper and threaded the safety wire through it the insulation strip. The color matches perfectly. If I think of it I'll take a picture tomorrow.

As for reinstalling, I was pretty brutal. The advice earlier was to whack them until they sound changes. Took about 5 smacks.

I think the lead hammer will give me at least one more total change on this side of it and I haven't even touched the other side of it yet. Should probably get 4-5 changes out of it. Good deal on them!

Now I need to get a canvas toolbag for all the goodies.

[dcdoug]

I think you are supposed to get about 20 removals.

[Excaliber]

Sheeshh, I been using a small iron sledge hammer and a piece of wood for years, which I always thought worked great (on the Austin Healey as well as my goofy simulated spinners on the Cobra). Maybe I'm missing the boat and need to try a "real" hammer for a change.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

Sheeshh, I been using a small iron sledge hammer and a piece of wood for years, which I always thought worked great (on the Austin Healey as well as my goofy simulated spinners on the Cobra). Maybe I'm missing the boat and need to try a "real" hammer for a change.

Once you have anti-seize on they probably come off a lot easier. But I will tell you there is a night and day diff between the sledge/wood approach and using the lead hammer. I wouldn't have guessed it either. Could have been that the wheels I took off with the sledge/wood had seized up more, but I doubt it.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I think you are supposed to get about 20 removals.

Yes, my 4 or 5 was for all 4 wheels, so yeah, probably about 20.

I also agree that they will probably be a lot easier to break loose with the anti-seize. Which makes the safety wire even more important.

Went to a little local car show today and someone even asked about why the wheels were wired.