Lockout functional on Ford shifter?

[mickmate]

Hey Guys I've done a little searching and reading on this here. I still don't know whether the lockout is functional on these transmissions. This car has a Ford shifter with reverse left and back (by second). I believe the Hurst Comp Plus has it left and forward. I can't find anything on making the lockout functional any help or suggestions appreciated.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by mickmate

Hey Guys I've done a little searching and reading on this here. I still don't know whether the lockout is functional on these transmissions.

The short answer is "Yes." The ERA manual has two full extremely complicated pages and diagrams on how to make it work. I have a Tremec, so I never really paid attention to the functionality of the lockout (it doesn't work). But after reading the manual on how to do it I think pulling the crankshaft out is probably easier. In a sentence, you melt the solder attaching the cable to the lock-out dog, a spring will pop the dog out, washers falls, you tack the cable back in, reverse the lever around, weld it all back together making sure the cable and washer don't fall out while you're doing all that, and *poof* it works.

[ERA Chas]

Mick,

Basically don't bother. Functionally I've never had a problem hanging a shift because of reverse on my Toploader. To get reverse the drill for me is to shift to 1st then down, across and up to reverse and it goes in every time. (Hurst Comp +).

Also in Mustangs and Galaxies it's fine to squeeze the tees with the first two fingers but with our shifters reversed it's an awkward hand position.

Pulled my cable out of the handle years ago and always flat-shift at the track.

Use your talents for fabbing great parts.

[*13*]

Mine no workie. Had no problems getting in, or misshifting into reverse.

[ERA Chas]

I unintentionally omitted the vertical shifter on the small block car .

I've driven one which does not have a functioning tee and like the FE car, it has no negative effect on shifting or getting reverse.

[PANAVIA]

the reverse lock on the tremec is a pain to connect to the vintage fordish shifter.

--if you feel the need to add tips and tricks to your machinery I am sure the cycles could be spent in other areas that would bring much more Joy per square inch.

the Reverse lock on the T56 is electrical , so that might be a bit easier.

Steve

[mickmate]

Thanks guys, I'm kind of leaning towards the Hurst shifter (not just because of Lindas cleavage). The Ford one has had a couple of reverse hits looking for second so I think the first gear position and the more positive shift from the Hurst should do the trick. It looks like you can still get Hurst Comp new from Summit for $245. Then there's the correct shift handle for what 185 and modifying the handle to fit the Hurst..... Maybe time to check fleabay again!

[strictlypersonl]

The ERA manual has instructions to reverse the handle on the stock Ford shifter and still retain the lockout, but this will not work if the modified handle is mounted on a Hurst or Long shifter. No provisions for the spring-loaded tang to work.

I probably should just take those instructions out of the manual anyway, since I doubt that they've been used in the last 15 years. We've been making handles from scratch for at least that long.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

I probably should just take those instructions out of the manual anyway...

Not to mention the fact that you need a mechanical engineering degree to even begin to figure them out.

[mickmate]

Bob and I both have that luckily.
Thanks Bob I see the reversed shifter problem with the Cobras leaves the lockout tang on the opposite (wrong) side.

[55312]

I have the Hurst comp + on my Top Loader and it's bullet proof. Huge improvement over the stock Ford shifter. I don't have the lock out or even the "correct" shifter lever but I'm more interested in the performance of the shifter than correct appearance. BTW I do have to slam it pretty good to the left to get it in Reverse. Think I'll try the suggestion above on going into first then down and up. I'd be looking on FleaBay for a shifter before paying Summit's price. No knock on Summit but I'm getting pretty frugal these days.........

[mickmate]

To remove it you have to heat and melt the braze from the bottom of the cable to the tang and dismantle it. I was surprised the rubber does actually spread out far enough to get the boot over one hook at a time if that's what you're trying to do.

[mickmate]

Just to update I found the Ford shifter, correct functioning handle, everything needed from Bill Heeley. The stuff looks like jewellry I hope it works as good.