UNDER CONSTRUCTION ---
Rev 0.91 of article 10-26-2009 / 3AM
Greetings -
I wanted to give something back to the forum that has been inspirational for my business and hobby.
The subject of this post and subsequent edits is the insertion of a T56 6 speed into an SPF / Superformance MKIII roadster SPF2734.
The T56 6 speed is a remarkable piece of equipment ---First Engineered by the folks who gave us the T5, the T56 has been used in a wide variety of vehicles with much success.
Examples ; (From Wikipedia )
Aston Martin DB7 Vantage, 1999–2003
Aston Martin V12 Vanquish, 2001–2006
Chevrolet Corvette, 1997–2007
Dodge Viper, 1992–2007
Ford Mustang Cobra, 2003–2004
Ford Mustang Cobra R, 2000
2001–2004 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
2004–2006 Pontiac GTO
2004–2006 Cadillac CTS-V
<snip>
So having driven a percentage of what is on the list, I was intrigued, especially with the idea of a 6 speed and something of a more sophisticated transmission as the TKO box first inserted into my SPF was kind of clunky. Nothing wrong with it, I just didn't dig it.
---Plus in Top Gear - freeway speeds were taching higher than I wanted, whilst 1st gear was quite tractor like in the TKO.
Churning through the 2009 Ford Motorsport catalog (FRPP) I saw a T56 conversion unit (M-7003-H) .
-- after reviewing some installs on 5.0L mustang magazine sites and churning over parts sheets, I figured there were enough stock Ford parts available to get this inserted into my SPF with little effort and a potentially great upside.
I am delighted to tell you it went very well.
Ups and Downs ;
Downsides :
Box is 20lbs heavier than a TKO. (just about nets out with integral BH)
Box is 2.25 to 2.75" longer than a TKO. (depending on where you measure from)
Bell-housing is integrated no scattershields (at least with this particular setup, I am sure someone can do a viper T56 and a mc'leod or hayes unit, but that is out of scope.)
reverse lockout is electrical - not a big deal / read on for fix
bouncy speedo needle at low speeds - not a big deal
Upsides:
Well placed gear ratios for every possible situation
Shift action is fantastic (even better with Steeda Tri-ax t56 shifter)
1st gear is very usable (2.95)
5th and 6th gear are wonderful
Box can be installed with very little logistical effort, IE only the cradle is fabricated, no other weird / obsolete parts.
uses 5.0L parts (5.0; fork, pivot ball,throwout bearing, pilot busing, clutch. TKO: slip yoke, shift handle/rod.)
Fits in SPF tunnel with no mods to tunnel (unless you have an ashtray - then say buh-bye to the ashtray.)
Mechanical Speedo port (no odd ball mag counters, works with smiths speedo)
First the players and pieces;
Engine : Ford Boss Block 302 based (M-6010-BOSS302)
Flywheel /Clutchstd 5.0L FR piece with a FR C302N Clutch setup.
Clutch Fork : 86-95 Mustang 5.0L
Clutch Pivot Ball :86-93 Mustang 5.0L
Throwout Bearing :Std 5.0L Mustang
Pilot Bushing : STD 5.0L (M-7600-A)
Transmission: T56 Ford with 5.0-5.8 housing (M-7003-H)
Block Plate: 5.0L Mustang 5 Speed
Starter : MOTORCRAFT Part # SA769ARM {#E9SZ11002BRM}
Hydraulic Slave Cylinder : wilwood 260-1333 (compressive /pull type)
[
Transmission Rubber Mount:TH400 Style / Modified
Transmission Cradle Mount : Custom Fabricated
Superformance Transmission Mount : Modified
Bolts: TBD / in text.
Getting Started:
Since I had the TKO already in the car, and the engine in the car, it was going to have to come up-out via the removable tunnel.
Removing the tunnel in an SPF is not fun or pretty. They do glue it down quite a bit, and the rubber sealant / glue that is used for this as always quite gooey even years after application. Short version : black goop will stick and get on everything; proceed with the idea that you should be careful and you will have to do some cleanup.
In order to get the tunnel out , the SPF seats have to come out as well. -- this is simple for a sidepipe car, hard for the undercar exhaust guy.
Installing a T56 in a SPF would be best done prior to having an engine in the car. (Bob -- stop laughing) Once the seats are removed, you can have easy access to the countersunk metric bolts that hold the tunnel down. Perform this task in an area where you can verify and physically count that you HAVE pulled all tunnel bolts and the 2 emergency brake lock-nuts. The emergency brake assembly can stay with the car and you do not have to take it out, just the bolts and lift the assy away from the tunnel.
Once you have cut your way through the glue, and removed the bolts the tunnel should be able to come out and be set aside. (fig1A)
The T56 has an integral bell-housing already attached : (Fig1B) this is an incredibly useful situation.
With just its bell-housing attached to the block you can check for starter engagement/indexing (Fig1C)
The slip yoke for the rear is a 31 spline unit, that is the same exact unit from the TKO, in fact I didn't even have to have by drive-shaft shortened. In the Mustang articles they mention a 1.5" reduction in drive-shaft length , so as Joe Isuzu says-- your mileage may vary.
The goal of this install was to be able to insert the T56 without cutting any superformance metal pieces. We accomplished that. If you are familiar with typical SPF TKO installs, you will know that the trans sub-mount bolts onto the cross-member to the front of said same cross-member, aaaannnd that the cross-member is not removable ( nor should you make it removable ) with this in mind I went an verified that the mounting surface of the trans mount is 2.75" further rearward than the TKO, which is also just about the depth of the cross-member from front to rear on the SPF.
NO DRILLING THE FRAME: So the decision was made that instead of drilling any holes in the frame/CM, we would flip the SPF trans mounting sub plate to the rear of the CM, and create a cradle mount for the tail of the T56. This would effectively locate the rubber trans support mount anywhere we wanted within about 1" of the targeted area enabling some forward or rearward movement. In order to do this, the engine actually had to go forward about 1/2" to obtain the clearance required the rear of the T56 gear case to clear the bolt heads on the CM, needed for the SPF trans CM sub-plate. I am glad I had those index capable mounts I bought from another ClubCobra contact.
The Old Setup -- the TKO as was originally installed.
The TKO was a fine transmission and is a worthy choice for many an install , to understand a T56 and its benefits, I think you need to understand the "typical" Tremec/TKO install, the TKO information and images provided here are for reference only and I will not be writing a TKO version of this blog/post.
TKO Pictures ;
1. - The overview picture with illustrations of the submount differences required.
2. The Crossmember with the TKO installation - this is provided to show the scale difference between the TKO and the T56.
Now -- for a T56 in the same space -
3. A T56 installed in the exact same space with our cradle mounting system we developed.
Now you are wondering about the T56 itself -
The T56 is longer than the TKO , but it is also much more submarine shaped and less Box-Car shaped.
The cool thing about the T56 is the integrated clutch/bellhousing which is also a cost savings --
If you compare the M-7003-H part number with the needed part numbers from a TKO setup you will find the difference is minimal.
T56: M-7003-H = $2600
TKO M-7003-R58W =$2200
TKO R58 Bellhousing =$200
(delta in RAW cost $200)
Most of the rest of the hardware is transferable with the exception of the rubber isolator mount, a smattering of bolts and the fabrication and cradle mounting work.
Right now , We have only generated the mounts for R&D car and a set of patterns. We are in the middle of testing and he T56 installation into an SPF is available only for cars that can be brought into the shop. If popular enough we may offer it for others to install at some point.
CRADLE MOUNT: Since the T56 is used in a wide variety of places there are a few extra pre-machined aluminum raised bosses that are from other configurations. We used the typical front mounting holes with countersunk grade 8 bolts into the base plate. -- for the Rear of the cradle mount to the trans, the tail housing was cross drilled and we used typical grade 5 hardware with nylon locks The "U" shaped channel of the cradle was made from Steel box tubing (Metal Supermarkets in Santa Clara, we paid for all the steel we got, but they are very helpful so they "Earned-Their-Plug" as Jay says. ) that we cut a wall off of and custom ground to fit, once that was setup the cradle base-plate (with a 2 degree curve to preserve drive angle ) was welded to it and the assembly was bolted into place. Notice that there is a left/right bias to the cradle as reviewed along the long axis of the transmission.
See photos of cradle ;
The
Will update in a few days -- lots of stuff going on (10-30-2009)
---More later --