Mcleod BH .025 off

cobrafx · #1 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 02:08 PM

Is this right? Can the scattershield be that far off? Offset pins will correct the centerline but then all the mounting holes have to move also....right? Wow.
Jaime

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 02:11 PM

How did you measure? Can you show us your "map"?

The mounting holes won't have to move, there's generally enough slop in them for offset dowels.

cobrafx · #3 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

How did you measure? Can you show us your "map"?

The mounting holes won't have to move, there's generally enough slop in them for offset dowels.

Mmmm....... 0 dial at 3:00 oclock and .025 at 9 oclock. AND 0 at 6 oclock and almost 025 at 12. I did it twice and came up the same. I dont have the flywheel on but will put it on this weekend and run the numbers again but i imagine they will be the same.
Jaime

edit: The right side mounting holes are VERY close to the radius of the bellhousing that the bolt heads interfere before bottoming.

blykins · #4 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 03:35 PM

Well, a couple of things....

1. Make sure every bolt that's used to bolt the bellhousing to the block is in and tight.

2. Make sure there are no burrs, paint, powdercoat, etc., in the rim where the dial indicator rides.

3. You don't have to move as much as you think. If you're at 3:00 and zeroed, if you move the bellhousing .025" to the right to make the 9:00 measurement go away, then your your 3:00 measurement would essentially be -.025" and your 9:00 measurement would then be 0. You need to split the difference.

Jac Mac · #5 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrafx

edit: The right side mounting holes are VERY close to the radius of the bellhousing that the bolt heads interfere before bottoming.

Use hex cap screws or small head bolts to avoid or cure this problem where the larger 5/8" hex tends to push the bellhousing aside just as it fully tightens, some careful use of a small die grinding burr on the housing at the point of interference will help make clearance if reqd also.

redmt · #6 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 03:46 PM

I just lined up a Quick Time BH over the weekend. We decided to not use the offset pins as it could be too much of a PITA. I machined down the pins the distance I needed to move, stuck them back in the block and then aligned the BH to the adapter ring for the tranny. Then I just welded the housing to the pins so that it wouldn't need to be realigned when changing clutches.

cobrafx · #7 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 04:32 PM

I am finding out that scattershields as a whole are definately NOT created equal. I did a search and actually found a Mcleod video that ironically used .025 as an example of an offset. Mcleod has adjustable dowels that I will have to get. Found instances of 'welding a washer after aligning'. This is my first "build" an the learning curve is VERY steep! Thanks yall for the replies. I think I will start a 'build' thread....hahahaha. Thanks yall
Jaime

cobrafx · #8 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jac Mac

Use hex cap screws or small head bolts to avoid or cure this problem where the larger 5/8" hex tends to push the bellhousing aside just as it fully tightens, some careful use of a small die grinding burr on the housing at the point of interference will help make clearance if reqd also.

Thanks, I think I will do that even though the head will probably still contact. No worries, time to chuck some stainless in the lathe and make some tapered washers. pitiful, so much money spent on a product that does not fit correctly. Damn shame.
Jaime

edit: wait a sec....die grind the housing at the contact point...hmmmmm, I shoulda thought of that!

redmt · #9 (**permalink**) 10-09-2012, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrafx

I am finding out that scattershields as a whole are definately NOT created equal. I did a search and actually found a Mcleod video that ironically used .025 as an example of an offset. Mcleod has adjustable dowels that I will have to get. Found instances of 'welding a washer after aligning'. This is my first "build" an the learning curve is VERY steep! Thanks yall for the replies. I think I will start a 'build' thread....hahahaha. Thanks yall
Jaime

If you use the adjustable dowels and it happens to move without you knowing when you take it all apart again after aligning it to put the clutch in , you'll never know it. Weld the dowels. JMHO

blykins · #10 (**permalink**) 10-10-2012, 03:51 AM

It's not always the bellhousing's fault Jaime. There's a lot of things that can change crankshaft centerline....line boring/honing the block, manufacturing tolerances between the block, bellhousing, etc.

It's pretty common to have to do this, especially on older McLeod and Lakewood bellhousings.

cobrafx · #11 (**permalink**) 10-10-2012, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

It's not always the bellhousing's fault Jaime. There's a lot of things that can change crankshaft centerline....line boring/honing the block, manufacturing tolerances between the block, bellhousing, etc.

It's pretty common to have to do this, especially on older McLeod and Lakewood bellhousings.

Had a feeling there was going to be an issue when I noticed the holes on the flange were drilled/punched into the radius of the 'bell'. No worries, just something new to me. I am interested to see what (if any) difference installing the flywheel makes mounting the indicator base to it. Thanks again for the replies.
Jaime

lal Naja · #12 (**permalink**) 10-11-2012, 12:34 PM

Aligning the bell-housing is really a PITA job. But essential and rewarding when its all done.

Mine was 0.027" at it's worst point. It took seven attempts to get the alignment to 0.0015" run-out. Each attempt required loosening all bolts moving the bell-housing in the correct direction, then torquing down ALL the bolts and turning the engine around once again to check the reading.

I used a bell-housing alignment kit that came with two new dowel pins that fit the engine block and two steel collars bored to fit the dowels. The dowel holes in the bell-housing need to be drilled out to a larger (5/8" I think) size. When the alignment is within the specifications the collars get welded to the bell-housing.

In my case the results were better than needed, my target was 0.005" and removal and refitting of the bell housing resulted in repeatable accuracy. You can see some of my photos of this operation in my albums here on the Forum, or via the link I've pasted below.

Good luck with your alignment.

Arthur

Link to my build album below.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1&l=4a4838b30a

cobrafx · #13 (**permalink**) 10-12-2012, 04:48 PM

Well, drilling and welding a washer is not an option. The right side dowel hole is too close to the bell radius. So I am going to go the adjustable dowel route. Now to bump the bellhousing around and determine what dowel offset I need. Found some that are adjustable and have a screw that runs down the center to lock it in place. Cant think of the manufacture at the moment....case of CRS!
Jaime

edit: robbmcproducts

cobrafx · #14 (**permalink**) 10-14-2012, 06:05 PM

I ended up taking the advice of the experts here and drilled out the dowel pin holes, made some steel bushings and ready for welding. Didnt wanna rush it tonight so I will buzz it solid my next day off. Thanks yall. got it to zero at 12, 3 and 6 and .001 at 9. I'll take that. Now to look for clutch parts.

Jaime