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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2022, 02:22 PM
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First and easiest thing to check is that your clutch is fully engaging and the slave isn't putting excess pressure on it.
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Old 01-30-2022, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saki302 View Post
First and easiest thing to check is that your clutch is fully engaging and the slave isn't putting excess pressure on it.
the pedal all feels correct. about an inch push on the pedal and clutch disengages. I assume that is what you mean. I am not new to motorcycle clutches but am new to auto clutches. Basically the same between them except wet vs dry, if this was happening on my bike I'd say worn clutch or weak springs but it is brand new, unless they put a crap weak clutch in it. When it is engaged/engaging it feels good, feels right it isnt until a load is put on it that it starts slipping. The VMAXs old and new are nortorious for this even with new clutches so theres a thing called the double D mod where you stacks clutch springs, unfortunately on this I cannot. But it is exactly the same, just letting loose once engine is over 4k where the 427r really starts pulling.

Last edited by mavgarb302; 01-30-2022 at 03:12 PM..
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Old 01-30-2022, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavgarb302 View Post
the pedal all feels correct. about an inch push on the pedal and clutch disengages. I assume that is what you mean. I am not new to motorcycle clutches but am new to auto clutches. Basically the same between them except wet vs dry, if this was happening on my bike I'd say worn clutch or weak springs but it is brand new, unless they put a crap weak clutch in it. When it is engaged/engaging it feels good, feels right it isnt until a load is put on it that it starts slipping. The VMAXs old and new are nortorious for this even with new clutches so theres a thing called the double D mod where you stacks clutch springs, unfortunately on this I cannot. But it is exactly the same, just letting loose once engine is over 4k where the 427r really starts pulling.
You should have approx 1/4" freeplay at the clutch pedal before you feel the resistance. Depending on the master cylinder bore dia. After depressing the pedal 2-4" later the clutch should be fully disengaged.
It sounds like your master is mis-rigged and the clutch is 1/2 way depressed at all times, thus the slippage in higher gears.
If yours is a dual disc clutch the 1" pedal travel and full disengage you described still points to a mis-rig.
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Old 01-30-2022, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdbrake View Post
You should have approx 1/4" freeplay at the clutch pedal before you feel the resistance. Depending on the master cylinder bore dia. After depressing the pedal 2-4" later the clutch should be fully disengaged.
It sounds like your master is mis-rigged and the clutch is 1/2 way depressed at all times, thus the slippage in higher gears.
If yours is a dual disc clutch the 1" pedal travel and full disengage you described still points to a mis-rig.
Just went out to check. You may be on to something hard to tell.. With the wife lightly pushing on gearshift towards 1st (wont go until clutch is pressed), I put a measuring tape on clutch peddle to measure it with engine dead of course. Theres about 3/4" of total free play before resistance and roughly 3 1/2" more to disengage clutch before goes into gear. Not ever coming into this issue before I assume there is not much difference running/not running. the clutch pedal feels fine, feels like it engages great, when it slips theres no vibrations as if misaligned etc.. Best way to describe is that it just seems like weak diaphragm spring or oil on clutch. I tend to not think it is oil though and being new I cannot see the spring being weak.
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Old 01-30-2022, 05:21 PM
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I don't see any mention of how the clutch was run-in.

Clutches are like brakes, they work better as they are run-in.

Sounds like your clutch is slipping from insufficient grip.

Who makes your clutch?

Details of the engine please, how much power etc?
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2022, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
I don't see any mention of how the clutch was run-in.

Clutches are like brakes, they work better as they are run-in.

Sounds like your clutch is slipping from insufficient grip.

Who makes your clutch?

Details of the engine please, how much power etc?
I bought this thing 80mi new. The backdraft manual doesnt say which clutch was used. trans is a TKX, lakewood bellhousing, 566/544 dynoed 427r but zero mention of clutch.. Yes it is slipping ONLY under mid to heavy load, shifts fine, comes out of gear fine, clutch disengages high on the pedal etc.. I guess I could call Speed Fanatix inc which installed the engine.
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Old 01-30-2022, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavgarb302 View Post
Just went out to check. You may be on to something hard to tell...
Do you have a HTOB or a traditional external fork and slave? And from a slow roll if you hit the throttle can you easily spin your tires without smelling your clutch disk?
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Old 01-30-2022, 06:52 PM
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Do you have a HTOB or a traditional external fork and slave? And from a slow roll if you hit the throttle can you easily spin your tires without smelling your clutch disk?
no idea on the fork.. and yes will spins 1st and 2nd..3rd 4th and even fifth will slip.
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavgarb302 View Post
no idea on the fork...
Get under the car and look for a hole in the side of your bell housing, that will be in front of your transmission, and will look like this. This is what my clutch fork looks like. If you can't find something that looks like this then you probably have a HTOB (hydraulic throw out bearing). An external fork like this is very easy to check for too little play.

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