Any idea what I have ????

hdheritage97 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-30-2003, 06:02 PM

I recently blew my clutch warming up my new tires...lol...and now I'm in the middle of a clutch change nightmare. First of all, I can't get the damn Lakewood bellhousing out because it catches in the tunnel. The prior owner must have installed it on the engine then put it in, which would make sense, but I'm fighting not pulling the engine at this time and working around the damn thing...but that's not my issue. I was planning to install a Centerforce clutch/PP set but to my disappointment, the bolt holes in the PP don't line up with my flywheel. After making that discovery I matched it to my ol PP and sure enough, totaly different bolt pattern. So, I measured the old and found it to be 11", and it's my understanding that the original should have been 11.5" right ? My problem is that now I'm not sure what I'm looking for as a replacement, 11", 11.5", 12"...?????? And how will I know if the bolt pattern will match ? Anyone having info, please get in touch, I'm about to pull my hair out here...lol.

Cliff

KobraKarl · #2 (**permalink**) 05-30-2003, 06:35 PM

Cliff,

Have you tried putting a jack under your front crank pully (carefully!)and jacking your engine up at the front a bit (gently!) tipping your engine down at the rear so your bellhousing will clear.

Unless you want to change a flywheel, take your old PP to your parts supplier and have him find the part #for a match......dont pull your hair out , you dont want to lose your chick magnet

Clois Harlan · #3 (**permalink**) 06-02-2003, 12:57 PM

Put 4 jack stands under your car with the front higher than the back. Put your jack with a block of wood under the rear or your engine oil pan. Remove your bolts for your motor mounts (the long horizontal ones). The engin should tip backwards enough so you can get your bell housing out. Or you could just pull the body off

I am helping a friend with his tonight and I will tell you tomorrow how it goes. If push comes to shove we do have a cherry picker to lift the front of the engine. He just dropped a new rebuild in his Cobra this weekend and put his clutch in backwards. He tells me it makes a lot of noise when he pushed in the clutch.

I will not make any comments given the problems I have had lately. Things just happen sometimes...

Good Luck!

Clois

SpitzSpitz · #4 (**permalink**) 06-02-2003, 01:09 PM

hdheritage97 , Clois Harlan is correct, pull your transmission first (a must) then disconnect your motor mounts then let the back on the engine down. The bell housing will come off, but you will still have to twist and cock. Also as I remember if you are using a hydrolic throw-out bearing mulitply the difficulty by two. It took me three times to get my throw-out bearing not to leak and to get my clutch usable. (started with borg & beck) stay away from this and stick with a diaphram.

Good luck, after you finish, you will be scared to abuse your clutch.

The Spitz

6T5 Cbra · #5 (**permalink**) 06-02-2003, 02:12 PM

I have an EM with a 428 and have pulled the Lakewood/Tremec several times (unfortunately) but I do have removable tranny cross member. In fact, I am currently running an 11" Centerforce Dual Friction (#DF226033) clutch. When I first installed it, I thought I had the same problem, but after taking a break and coming back, I finally found the correct 6 bolt holes to use (many in the flywheel). Could this be your problem?

Here's a pic.

Gene

SpitzSpitz · #6 (**permalink**) 06-02-2003, 02:58 PM

hdheritage97, I'm running the same clutch and pressure plate as 6T5 Cbra. Good set up, runs well.

The Spitz

SCOBRAC · #7 (**permalink**) 06-02-2003, 03:51 PM

Ford replaced the 11.5" pp with an 11".. Mcloud still makes an 11.5, although an 11" disc of modern material will hold 90% better than an 11.5 OEM unit.. Search McLoud in the forum to get the part number.. Or for an 11" unit www.jegs.com or www.summitracing.com either way it's a good way to go..