clutch trouble...won't disengage

steve meltzer · #1 (**permalink**) 11-29-2003, 11:22 AM

I’m having a heck of a time with the clutch on my Kirkham. Here are the facts:
The car is in the process of assembly, and all clutch parts are new....it hasn’t run yet (and the way I’m goin’ it maybe awhile!).

427 engine with 4 speed toploader
Centerforce II disc and pressure plate, correct mechanical T/O bearing
3/4” Wilwood Master
1” Wagner Lockheed slave
Lakewood bellhousing

Problem: I can’t get the clutch to completely disengage.

What I’ve done:

Hyrdraulics of the master and slave are leak-free, and bled several times...no air in system.

The fork and scattershield have been modified so that there is nothing rubbing on moving parts to obstruct their travel.

The pedal pressure is reasonable and the transmission input shaft fit smoothly into the pilot bearing...bolted up easily.

The pivot bracket within the bellhousing has been shimmed as much as possible to create the best fulcrum for the clutch arm and the “vertical” piece of the pivot bracket is on the inside most part of the housing (which is correct, I thank).

The master cylinder and the slave as well have been adjusted “out” as much as possible to move the T/O bearing as much as possible.

Despite this, the clutch won’t totally disengage...with a strong effort, you can barely rotate the output shaft with the car in gear and the clutch to the floor.

Any thoughts on this? I was thinking about going to a larger MC, maybe a 7/8”, but Wilwood doesn’t make one for this application. Could go to a smaller slave, maybe a 7/8” there with the 3/4” Master. I’ m totally befuddled here. thanx steve meltzer, KMP #174

Bryan Wilson · #2 (**permalink**) 11-29-2003, 06:56 PM

Steve,
Clutch plate in backwards will cause your symptoms

Regards,
Bryan

steve meltzer · #3 (**permalink**) 11-30-2003, 08:40 AM

I'm confident that the clutch disc went in correctly.
as it was labeled as such from the factory. Have to
pull the tranny to check...maybe. Might have to take off
the damn bellhousing also! argggh! thanx for your help

steve

PatBuckley · #4 (**permalink**) 11-30-2003, 09:13 AM

Steve-

If the fork is moving - I can't remember but it seems to me normal movement is about 3/4"? - then I am not so sure you have a problem.

You said you can turn the output shaft of the trans by hand....

If that is the case - and as I said in the email I got on this, I would try it! It is probably working fine.

Pat Buckley

steve meltzer · #5 (**permalink**) 11-30-2003, 10:14 AM

Pat, thanx again for your response. The output shaft can only be turned by using a pry bar, 40# of effort and the driveshaft yolk on it. Also, as I turn the shaft, I think I can hear the disc against the flywheel. thanx again. steve

Rick Parker · #6 (**permalink**) 11-30-2003, 10:52 AM

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installation? Sometimes it is difficult to remove all of the air trapped in a dry cylinder.
Tilton Engineering makes 7/8" diameter and larger master cylinders. One of their product lines is a duplicate of the one of Wilwood's.

Rick

steve meltzer · #7 (**permalink**) 11-30-2003, 11:19 AM

Rick, no I didn't bench bleed the MC, so that might need to be checked...and it is a beast to remove..aarghh. thanx for the input. steve