toploader rebuild needed?

jschiller · #1 (**permalink**) 12-25-2003, 01:21 PM

I recently bought a toploader that was represented as newly rebuilt. I have not installed it yet so there is no way I can confirm that. Here's the question, how can you tell it was rebuilt?

Are there any signs that should be obvious that it was rebuilt? I am willing to tear it down and rebuild it myself except for two things, 1 if it was already rebuilt there is no need to do it again and 2 my understanding is you need a special tool to remove the front bearing to get the mainshaft out.

Anyone have any ideas???

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 12-25-2003, 08:34 PM

If it's been ran at all, there's probably not a good way of telling if it has been rebuilt...if it hasn't been ran much, then you can look at the synchronizer blocking rings...they will be a nice solid brass or bronze color...otherwise they'll probably be a dull yellow or oily color. How do the seals look? That would be another indication...Also, pop off the inspection plate and see what the gasket looks like. There will be a difference between a brand new gasket and one that has been there for years and years.

If you have to rebuild it, I'll tell you from experience that it's not an easy thing to do...I just rebuilt my own a couple weeks ago. You will not need any special tools besides a good arbor press and some 7/8" dowel rods. The special tool you're referring to is to drop the countershaft (the bottom shaft in the tranny) to remove the input shaft. All you need is the dowel rod I mentioned...you just cut it to the right length, start knocking it in to push the countershaft out, then when it's out, you just lower the countershaft gear cluster to the bottom of the case...then you can remove the input shaft.

Rebuilding a tranny is not easy...but it's very doable if you have patience, time, and a neat way of labeling things and keeping them in order. Also, you'll need to order a good rebuild kit if you do it....one that comes with EVERYTHING....you'll end up just buying more and more parts if you don't get it the first time. You can contact David Kee...or go to:

www.4speedtoploaders.com

I opted to go with the Road Race plus rebuild kit....to get the beefier SKF main bearings.

blykins · #3 (**permalink**) 12-26-2003, 12:01 PM

One more thing I just thought of...if it hasn't been rebuilt, the detents will be worn...you can put the tranny in neutral, unbolt the plug on the driver's side of the case, and pull out the spring and detent with a magnet. It will be a round detent...check to see if it has any worn places on it...

jschiller · #4 (**permalink**) 12-27-2003, 06:03 AM

Thanks for the tips. They help a lot. Since I have a lot of time, I may decide to rebuild it anyway. That way if it fails, I have no one to blame but myself!

blykins · #5 (**permalink**) 12-27-2003, 06:48 AM

I wanted to do it just for the experience. Plus it's nice since I built my own engine and set up my own rearend....might as well go all out...you know?

It's not that bad....just tedious work. I have 83 pictures that I took during the process. The instructions that come with the rebuild kit are good, but it's always nice to talk to someone that can give some tips. I'll be more than happy to help you in any way that I can.

I can probably tell you a couple things that could save you some time....let me know if you decide to do it. I'll help you all that I can.