Alternative to T/O Brg Banjo Fittings

[Clois Harlan]

I just bought two adjustable 90 degree fitting to replace my banjo fittings on my hydraulic throw out bearing. Price was $4.95 each. Basically, they are 7/16" X 20 by AN4 90 degree fittings with a lock down nut and o-ring on them.

My question is has anyone tried these before and if so will the work as in place of the leaky banjo fittings that is sold with our hydraulic throw out bearings?

Clois

[rbray]

Clois,
Mcleod has redesigned their TO bearing and they have employed a similiar strategy to yours.
I exchanged my old Mcleod for one of their newer models after the banjo leaked.
I think you are on the right track.

[Tommy]

I tried a conventional banjo fitting without success. With the McLeod T/O bearing bolted to the transmission, the hose would not rotate to clear the opening in the scatter shield if the fitting was tightened down. If your application does not require the hose to move after the fitting is tightened, I think it would be ok.

[Clois Harlan]

I will take some pictures tonight when I get the conversion made. Unfortunately, I am still waiting on the correct aluminium flywheel to arrive from Summit. I inadvertantly ordered the wrong one. Good thing my engine builder caught my mistake when I had him check the balance or I would have been in a mell of a hess. Just an FYI a 428CJ does use a 28 oz flywheel

Clois

[Morris]

Clois

Why wouldn't you use a 90 degree Forged SS fitting....??

Not the standard 90 degree.....

I think the fitting you are talking about is close to the same thing... not sure .... a photo will do it....

We use the forged fitting in high vibration area on the Indy cars...

Just a thought

[Clois Harlan]

Bad news, the fitting size is 3/8" S.A.E. to AN 6 and not 7/16". So back to the parts house tomorrow. I an going to try two parts for one of two methods:
1. 3/8" S.A.E. to AN 6 male 90 degree adjustable w/ an o-ring

2. 3/8" S.A.E. to AN 6 Straight w/ lock nut, washer and o-ring and then use a AN 6 SS Braided hose w/ 90 degree AN 6 female end and a straight female end.

And if none of those work I will be taking the whole bearing down to the machine shop and have Kent re-drill and tape the inlet and outlet ports of my bearing to 7/16" S.A.E.. I have a spare and if I funk it up I will be pondering my next brilliant idea.

One way or the other I will be eliminating the banjo fittings, I hope.

Morris I appreciate your input and I was using a SS Forged fitting but it was the wrong size.

Clois

[427sharpe]

When I replaced mine, I just bought a 90 degree npt to AN adapter for Earls and tapped the body of the throwout bearing to the npt thread. I used a sealing loctite when I installed the adapter, and have had zero problems in the six or seven years since. This sounds a lot like what you are doing, so I think you will have no problems, and more importantly, NO LEAKS!

[Pete Munroe]

Clois,

I think I posted this somewhere but to repeat...there is a new design McCleod t/o.

Do not screw around trying to modify the old one, the new is, finally, done right. It is basically the GM Corvette design that GM has abandoned the patent on.

Mine has been leak free since last April...Not sure of the miles since then but at least 1500, lots in stop and go LA traffic.

The old design banjo fittings were poorly manufactured...I don't think they leaked because the banjo design is inherently bad,
(although the new 90 fitting, that can still SWIVEL is superior to a screwed on90 degree like you are thinking of). The bano's leaked because of garbage quality control...they should have been sent back to the jobber that made them...NEVER have been released.

My old banjos were so loose on the stem you could just push on them and fluid would leak without pressure...couldn't seal anything.

That said, SEND the old back to McLeod...whine if you have to, I
think they will give you the late model housing in exchange...put your old ram with new seals into the new housing.

I think it was you...?...Clois...did you ever call Red McCleod?

Try them, if they won't help you for a nominal fee, I would like to know...they seemed pretty good about it.

Hang in there,

Pete

[Clois Harlan]

I have called Red several times but have not been able to get through. So I have sent him two faxes and an email within the last two weeks and he still didn't reply so I called the office and asked what the deal was and I was told to re=send the fax and they would lay it in front of him. That was yesterday and I still haven't heard anything. I have an extra brg so I think I may send to him for repairs and see what they will do.

Clois

[rbray]

Pete,
I sent my old unit in to Mcleod and they relaced it with a new one, but charged me 50% of the retail price for a new unit.
I'm still a little steam about this as the unit failed ( banjo ) leak after 20 miles and I feel the defective unit should have been replaced. Also, I took me over a week to get in touch with their tech support people. The line was always busy and they did not have an answering machine or a way to contact them by e-mail.

I seldom complain about poor service, but this is one company that I will never do business with again or recommend them to anyone else.

[Pete Munroe]

Guys,

Sorry to hear about your problems with McCleod to exchange.

I was actually at the shop in Anaheim ( on several occassions ) and mine may have been a "comp" rebuild as I got the first of 10 test units to go out...they were polite, helpful...and I was standing right there.

Actually, I had explained to them that I had pulled the transmission and replaced the banjo o-rings three times and the clutch and flywheel face once...in about 3 months...and that was enough.

If the exchange deal seems inequitable, trying writing a polite but firm letter along with the unit and explain why you think it should be a complentary exchange if its due to sloppy banjos, they may work something out.

Oh, it about impossible to get the units apart to replace the
banjos as the socket head screws cannot break loose the red-locktite and you end up stripping out the heads on half of them.

Considering the alternative of buying a new Tilton...more money yet...modifying the old one...will it work?....etc...

I understand being fried but don't cut off your nose to spite your face...path of least resistance, exchange it and complain.

Be that as it may, my new unit works.

The new pieces are tightly machined, the 90 degree swivel elbow sealed with an upper and lower "double" O ring with a roll pin through a groove in the housing to retain the 90 fitting, yet let it swivel.

If it's any consolation, ( aside from knowing I pulled the trans 3 times and the flywheel once)... try THROWING away a new Lakewood bell-housing because the register was so eccentric it was impossible to line up the transshaft within 10 thousands, much less 5 or less. I had to pitch it as I bought it two years earlier and they wouldn't take it back. (never buy parts ahead of time ! )

(The McCeod bell-housing DID appear to be a higher level of quality than the Lakewood by a bunch and was easy to index, win some, lose some.)

I have been very disappointed with several vendors as I have built the Cobra and rebuilt a Corvette...keep in mind most of the time you aren't making friends, your just trying to get the product you need that works as represented...sad but true.

Pete

[Clois Harlan]

I have explained in my letters and emails that I didn't expect something for nothing because I know R&D costs are very expensive. Right now all I would like is an answere to any of my questions:

1. Can I exchange my older style?
2. Can I modify the bellhousing?
3. Will you sell me the fittings?
4. Why wasn't this unit offered to me three or four months ago?

Any answer will be fine, but silience is agravating me. I have added up the McLeod mods and replacements I have made over the last 18 months and they total over $3200.00. I have been a very good customer. Maybe to good.


Clois