Tremec 3550 reverse problem

SkipB · #1 (**permalink**) 03-18-2005, 06:37 PM

Guys,

My Tremec 3550 is hard to put in reverse when it is warmed up. It "crunches" almost all of the time. Sometimes it won't if I rock it between 3rd and 4th before engaging. But that doesn't always work. It goes in OK when cold!

Any ideas on a "fix" would be appreciated. It gets a little embarrassing while the crowd watches!

tpiini · #2 (**permalink**) 03-18-2005, 08:44 PM

Are you sure that your clutch is fully disengaging? I just went through a similar problem with my 3550. Turned out to be the clutch in my case.

SkipB · #3 (**permalink**) 03-21-2005, 03:25 PM

tpiini,

I would assume the clutch is disengaging, but I am not 100% sure. I will have it checked. It sure works fine on the forward gears. Thanks for the tip.

tpiini · #4 (**permalink**) 03-21-2005, 03:40 PM

My problem manifested itself when downshifting and going into reverse, but not wheh upshifting normally. Just jack up the back of the car & push the clutch in with it in gear. If the wheels don't spin, well, it's not your clutch.

The Dreamer · #5 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 12:25 PM

I'm getting the same symptoms and it is because the clutch is barely releasing. As the clutch heats up, it is harder for the clutch to release. The clutch is not touching the flywheel enough to lock, it just slips. I need more travel on my slave cylinder to get a full release.

tpiini · #6 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Dreamer

I'm getting the same symptoms and it is because the clutch is barely releasing. As the clutch heats up, it is harder for the clutch to release. The clutch is not touching the flywheel enough to lock, it just slips. I need more travel on my slave cylinder to get a full release.

In my case, I ended up going to a 7/8" master cylinder. That moved the slave full-stroke, but the 1 1/8" of stroke wasn't enough. At the advice of the manufacturer, CNC Brakes, I removed the return spring from the slave cylinder and put a return spring on the fork. Removing that spring gave me about another 3/8" of slave cylinder stroke. THAT fixed my problem.

So if you can get a helper to push your pedal down while you're under the car, you can see if you are stroking the cylinder fully or just bottoming it out at full-stroke. If you're bottoming it out, take out the spring. If it's just not moving full-stroke, go with the larger master cylinder.

Hope this helps you,

Tom

SkipB · #7 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 06:14 PM

Wow guys,

Thanks! I'll try the "test" this weekend to see if the clutch is fully releasing. The idea of the clutch swelling would explain why it only happens after I have driven the car and it is hot. It all makes sense.

When and if I get a solution, I will let you know.

I love this place when I need help!

Thanks again.

Skip