Where to Score a Slave Cylinder?

The Dreamer · #1 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 12:30 PM

I need to find a smaller bore slave cylinder so I can get more travel out of it. I have a .75 in bore Wilwood master. I'm looking for a .75 in bore Lockheed-Wagner slave cylinder (or one that mounts like it). Anyone know a source for one? I'm trying to find a direct replacement for the slave cylinder I have.

Rick Parker · #2 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 01:33 PM

Get a 7/8" or 1" Master cylinder, be careful not to overdo it or you will push the seal out of the slave. Tilton & Wilwood are essentially the same. It's easier and more cost effective (read cheaper) than attempting to find a slave with the same dimensions and a smaller bore. Check Ebay, pick em up for a song.

Rick

Click on this:

7/8" Master cylinder

ToyCollector · #3 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 02:00 PM

Southern Automotive has 7/8 inch Lockheed-Wagner slaves in stock usually.

ENTDOC · #4 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 02:23 PM

use a HTB chuck

The Dreamer · #5 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 02:48 PM

Rick, the tilton is not the same master and I need the one the Kirkham use or I'm going to have to engineer the pedal. There is a CNC one that will work, but I would have to re-plumb that. Easier than taking out the tranny, but not as easy as finding a .75 slave, I hope.

TC, Called them. They say they have 1 in slaves, just like Finishline.

Chuck, see comments above on pulling the tranny. There are enough people having problems with the HTO bearings that I'm avoiding them. A leak on the slave, I unbolt it and rebuild it. A leak on the HTO and I'm pulling the tranny.

HotRodJoe · #6 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 03:12 PM

Dreamer...been thru this issue....seems like 7/8 slave is as small as you can find...Girling stopped making 3/4 RH slaves, unless you can find a used one. With the 3/4 master and 7/8 slave, some have gotten it to work.

tpiini · #7 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 04:23 PM

Hey Dreamer,

By "re-plumb", do you mean that your original has the outlet in a different place than on the one you're looking at? If so, I had the same issue. I bought a 12" piece of brake line and a double-female adapter from my local parts house for less than $5.00. I just bent both the new & original lines by hand so they met up and I was in business.

The Dreamer · #8 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 04:54 PM

Tom, that is what I meant. I will keep that approach in mind.

Joe, I was afraid of that. The 7/8 will probably work, but if I'm going to change, I would like a little extra insurance. I going to look into re-sleeving the slave.

HotRodJoe · #9 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 05:03 PM

I assume you swapped master cylinders to get the .750 ... the Kirkhams come with a .70 there. That's what I did.

Joe

FeWedge · #10 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 06:01 PM

What kind of problem are you having? The .750 master cylinder with .820 clutch slave cylinder should give you at lest 1 inch of travel. Make sure the clevis yoke is attached to the correct pivot point on the clutch pedal. I just went through this with my Kirkham. 3 weeks of hell trying to get some pedal pressure and 45 minutes to fix it when I figured it out.

Rob

The Dreamer · #11 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 07:08 PM

Joe, I had the Kirkhams put in a .75 master from the start because I was already aware of the problem with going with a slave setup.

Rob, the masters only have about 1 in of stroke (after the pedal nut and stop nut). With a .875 slave I would get 6/8 in of travel. With a 1 in slave, which apparently I have, I get just over .5 in of travel, which is about .25 in from utopia.

ENTDOC · #12 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 07:11 PM

I have looked into this HTB problem and after talking with David Kee,I agree with him, that a properly installed HTB(new Mcleod) with a pedal stop should be largely trouble free and routinely gives the best pedal feel. He feels that installation error accounts for almost all failures and now the new ones have better seals to prevent leaks. Just a thought. chuck

ToyCollector · #13 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 07:44 PM

Not sure why there are no 7/8 inch at Southern but at least they have 1 inchers. The one I have bolts straight to the housing, no added brackets, etc. I run a 7/8s with a 1 inch master from AP Racing (Available from Essex Parts in NC) that is a 100% flange match to the Wilwoods, and is shorter in housing length so it will fit into a Kirkham master cylinder box which is a tight box. I paid about $170 for it 2 years ago. I still have .750 Wilwood master, but didn't even want to risk trying it with a 7/8 as I wanted to make 100% sure I at least had a 1:1 ratio to be done with it.

weekendwarrior · #14 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 07:50 PM

[quote]Originally posted by The Dreamer

I need to find a smaller bore slave cylinder so I can get more travel out of it. I have a .75 in bore Wilwood master. I'm looking for a .75 in bore Lockheed-Wagner slave cylinder (or one that mounts like it). Anyone know a source for one? I'm trying to find a direct replacement for the slave cylinder I have. [/QUOTE

I had a machine shop sleeve the Lockheed-Wagner and turn down the piston.

FeWedge · #15 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 08:10 PM

What pedals are you using? This is exactly the same problem I had. If the clevis yoke is attached at the wrong pivot point on the pedal you will not get enough travel in the master cylinder. The billet pedals have a pair of holes so they can use as either brake or clutch. It’s been a couple of weeks since I looked at them, I believe it needs to be mounted on the top hole. I assume the cover over the pedals has been removed. Press the pedal and look at the angle of the rod in the master cylinder. If its not straight thats the problem. I was only getting 5/8" travel on the slave side before I discovered this.

Rob

Mike Jones · #16 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 10:49 PM

Dreamer

I had the same problem. You need to match the slave and master cylinder size
to get the full stroke. CNC makes a .75
slave it a special order from CNC. They have a few in stock but not listed on the web site or catalog. Just call them at 619-
275-1663. Also if you have a Tremec transmission a company in San Diego called John's Mustang sells a bracket to
mount the slave to the trans. I don't have there phone number but they buy the slaves from CNC so they should have it. This is a pushing slave cylinder not a
pulling type, they might have it in pulling
just ask if you need it. Hope this helps.

RACER X #99 · #17 (**permalink**) 03-23-2005, 06:42 AM

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Pro...p?Product=3520

Take your pick.

Three Peaks · #18 (**permalink**) 03-23-2005, 07:22 AM

Summit racing has a Wilwood unit available. It is part #wil-260-1333 for around $65.99 or so.

The Dreamer · #19 (**permalink**) 03-23-2005, 09:23 AM

Thanks for the suggestions guys. This is exactly what I needed. Now, I need to make some choices.

TC, that AP Racing may be the way to go. Which master did you use, the compact flange (CP2623) or the flange (CP6093)? Did you use the push rod from the Wilwood master? Was there anything else that needed to be adapted?

Cranky, of course they would only offer the wrong version of the size I needed. I thought that was typical of my luck. Plus, the mounting is different.

Rob, I'm pretty sure I'm getting full stroke out of the slave. The problem is a mismatch between the bore. The ratio is not in my favor.

Mike, thanks for the source. I have been looking at the CNC as well as their master.

Warrior, I'm considering re-sleeving the slave. The problem is I will be down for about 2wks

Eljaro · #20 (**permalink**) 04-15-2005, 05:25 PM

Old Volvos used a .75" girling slave unit (push type). Check Volvo 1800 and 122 parts. I have one in my Contemporary and replaced it recently. Got mine from CVI Automotive in Sweden, but did see it in Autopartswarehouse also.http://www.cvi-automotive.se/resdela...cyl3_4_250.jpg