tko guys come in please 3days awake I need help

[dannydoo]

I recently put a tko in my 95
Omg I been up 3 days now.I just cant get this thing right.

If this is normal than i dont know....

OK
I went from having a 1 1/4 in trans mount spacer with severe vibrations on low loads thru all gears.
droped it doen to 1/2 inch and it almost stopped that problem.

I removed the driveshaft and ran it w/the yolk. IT SPINS SILENTLY THRU EVERYGEAR!
I changed the u joints and clocked the d/s

Then noticed the tailshaft is cocked 1/2 inch to right,i modifeid the x memeber again
Then droped the spacer on the x member to 1/4 inch

I got caried away and went another 1/4 toward drivers side on the x member holes and it made it worse again.

I get alot of vibration in the low torque area but it smoothes out in the higher rpms
isometimes i hear a clunking sound fro m the tailshaft

the tailshaft is tight.no up/down or side to side play w/out yolk

IM thinking to use an angle finder on the pinion and output shaft to get it under 5degrees so im sure the tail and pinion are at least properly aligned..and thats gonna be done while the suspension is loaded.

i found someones post about the literature u get when buying a new tko



this is it:
where it says transmission gear rattle etc its confusing me....
Documentation:
Unfortunately, TREMEC doesn't ship much of anything in regards to documentation about the transmission. I hoped to see a booklet or something to document the various sensors, rubber plugs, parts list, schematic, output size, etc. There was a small sheet of paper which indicated what fluid to use and how much.

Here's the information that I received with the transmission:


Oil Recommended: GM Synchromesh, GM part number 12345349 (3 quarts). Optional fluids are Dexron II E and Mercon Synthetic.

Clutch: In order to maintain correct clutch adjustments, an adjustable clutch cable/quadrant kit is recommended. This will prevent hard shifting, gear clash, and premature wear of the synchronizer rings.

Transmission gear rattle may be heard under heavy loads at low speed, during cancellation, in neutral, and sometimes under wide open throttle.

Mis-calibration of the clutch-driven plate or the crankshaft balancer may be the cause. Usually, no cost-effective correction is available.

Shift Lever: Backward installation will give you an awkward, long reach.

If the upper shift lever is installed without the rubber isolator or with a modified shifter lever, the transmission will sound very noisy.

Use of any aftermarket shifter may result in gear noise or gear failure.

[HSSS427]

You can download the 3550 & TKO service manual at this link:

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...vice%20Manuals

But, don't think the manual is going to have the answer to your problems with vibration and noise.

You should check the driveline alignment as I'm thinking it's not supposed to be more that 3 degrees out of alignment. Pretty easy to do and you can search the internet for instructions. Thought I had downloaded some but couldn't find them.

Mike Forte is a good source for help and parts on the web at http://www.fortesparts.com/ He helped me a lot with my install and has some unique parts that you might need to get the mounting correct.

Also, get some sleep

[LMH]

Yeah, I was going to suggest driveshaft alignment too.
How the setup was explained to me is that the output shaft line of the trans is supposed to parallel with the pinion shaft line of the differential. They don't have to be ON the SAME theoretical line, just parallel. (hope that makes sense)
I was told that there could be 5 degrees of angle in the driveshaft but maybe 3 is better, not sure about the total angle. I think there needs to be some angle though.
Larry

[392cobra]

http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html

When the transmission output shaft centerline and axle input shaft centerline are parallel, the u-joint operating angle permissible is length of driveshaft divided by five. Example: A short coupled driveshaft with a 15" length would be limited to 3 degrees maximum operating angle. A 30" shaft would be limited to 6 degrees.

When the transmission output shaft centerline and axle input shaft centerline intersect midway of the driveshaft, the joint angles are equal. However, due to the change to unequal joint angles during up and down axle movement, this is a more undesirable condition than parallel centerlines. In this case, the maximum u-joint operating angle is determined by dividing length of driveshaft by ten. Example: A 15" driveshaft with intersecting angles would have a 1.5 degree permissible operating angle.

[dannydoo]

Thanks for the posts everyone.

I got 2 major things I needed.
Sleep
Angle finder"the real one"

So here I am. My last and final plan is to degree these 2 as close to 0 as possible .
What I understand is. zero would be a direct line from pinion to output.
Leaving more than enough - and + u joint travel.
But If need be 5 degrees is the maximum offset I should shoot for.
Anything more than this will give too much + travel to the pinion/driveshaft and throw the u joint/driveline out of its balance??

Now what IM understanding is.....your saying left to right angle could be offset?
Im supposing since there is no left to right travel.
Like there is suspension travel up/down,I wont have to worry about that + and - movement?

I hope this comes together,im not in the mood to use adjustable control arms or shim up ANYTHING IN THE REAR.

[392cobra]

You need .5*,NOT ZERO.

If planes are parallel,3* max operating angle.You need to be getting the two operating angles within 1* of each other.With each angle as close to .5*,but not less,and no more than 3*.

[dannydoo]

Fred,thanks for the post.

You mean 5 degees right?
You typed .5 and that could mean half degree to a newwb like me.

I never did this before so excuse the surgical percision questions.

This is what im going by
http://www.steeda.com/-techtips/pinionangle.htm
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3602/vibes.html



the second one with all the angle stuff,really blasts me into confusion.

[LMH]

Good info Fred.
Larry

[392cobra]

Yes,that is 1/2* .It needs at least that amount for the needle bearing to rotate and not flat spot.
the steeda link is how to measure.It shows a operating angle of 4* in the example.The pinion should not be pointing up as in the lower example.
The geocities link is using larger numbers because of the longer driveshaft of a CJ7.I can see why it is confusing with all the different angles in the drawing.

Study the examples in the link I posted along with the steeda link.This will get the math sorted out.

I use a gravity protractor with a magnetic base from Sears.

It is about operating angles.The difference between the driveshaft and pinion shaft,and driveshaft and trans output shaft.This two angles need to be within 1* of each other.And each seperate angle less than or equal to 3*.

The shorter the driveshaft the less operating angle the u-joint can tolerate.i.e.,the more angle,lowers the rpm of the driveshaft before it will all come apart.

[dannydoo]

Fred Thanks again,

I got it now.
Just for giggles,I went and grabbed a crazy engineering lensatic degree compass,it registers just as good as the protracter suprisingly..Its the only thing i can find to measure left/right angle so this way ill be sure my output shaft is straight.Thus my modified x member will be correct.
I know it "should be" in relation to the old x member slots,but IM done playing games.

Fred,the last thing I need to triple check is"I need to do this all while the suspension is compressed right?
What about the front suspension?
I ask this because,I use a frame lift.I put a spin jack under the rear and a brace"another spin jack" in the front so it wont tip over/off forward.
SO I only would be getting the rear to compress.

Do you think this is ok?

I dont have access to a drive on lift and the liftarms wont reach the suspension to lift it that way.


I really appreciate the posts
Thanks
Dan

[392cobra]

Dan,
I'm really glad to help.It certainly can be confusing.

All you need is the rear suspension compressed.

I only have a floor jack and jack stands.I put the rear diff on jack stands and crawl under.

What type rear suspension do you have ?