Converting from automatic to manual

[767Jockey]

I'm looking at a Contemporary Cobra that currently has a 351C with an automatic transmission. The plan is to purchase the car at it's current inexpensive price, and gradually long term turn it into what I'd like to drive. First thing to go is the automatic. I'll have to stick with the 351C for now, but the long term plan is to eventually dump in a FE. With that in mind, can anyone take a reasonably accurate stab at what it would cost to convert this thing over? I'm just trying to budget this project out. I'm thinking more in terms of a Toploader than Tremec, for cost reasons, primarily. I have no idea what the rear ratio is in the car. I'd want a scattershield, of course, as I've grown to like my feet after all these years. Factor in a top quality clutch, shifter, master and slave cylinder, lines, pedal assembly, and whatever else. I'd rather stick with an old fashioned reliable throwout bearing and fork rather than one of these hydraulic throwout bearings. They seem like more headaches than they're worth. Anyone wth a semi educated guess on what this would cost, and how difficult to do, I'd appreciate it. Where does one buy a good toploader these days, and what do they cost now? Which toploader should I buy? I looked at David Kees website, but there's no prices on there. All info is appreciated and welcome. Thanks.

[Power Surge]

Can't really comment on the OVERALL cost, but it would defiitely be cheaper to do the 5 speed over the toploader.

[Jimi G]

Jockey, by the time you factor in everything needed to do the change over, depending on some of the specifics you will be looking at around $4000.00. That is also figured with a Tremec, but the David Kee Toploaders are right at the cost of the Tremec, I think they are $100-200 cheaper. There will also be some intangibles to deal with, like, will the crossmember work with a standard transmission, what type of speed-o-meter is it mechanical or electric? If you have anymore questions let me know and I will try to help you the best I can, unfortunately I only deal with the Tremecs, but the basic principles will apply. jimig@standardtransmission.com

[1985 CCX]

Doug,

It is hard to pinpoint since there are so many variables. Hardware will be the big factor. Keep in mind these cars are light and standard items like a clutch plate, bearings , etc are more reliable and less $ than high end racing equipment. Spend the $ wisely and I would guess you could do the switch, yourself of course, for around 2500-3000. Of course by looking for parts over time you may save capital and be better served using the auto with a shift linkage to appear as a std up front. Often Toploaders, bell housings, and big dollar items can be collected over time and coverted at a fraction of the cost.

Remember, when buying a Replica your are buying the car with motor and trans as an option. Would you rather have a 351C powered Contemporary or an FE powered stretched replica by someone else? I would take the CCX every time. Yes, I guess I am partial! In the end what makes you happy is what will work for you and save your sanity in this hobby. Jeff

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Jimi G

Jockey, by the time you factor in everything needed to do the change over, depending on some of the specifics you will be looking at around $4000.00. That is also figured with a Tremec, but the David Kee Toploaders are right at the cost of the Tremec, I think they are $100-200 cheaper. There will also be some intangibles to deal with, like, will the crossmember work with a standard transmission, what type of speed-o-meter is it mechanical or electric? If you have anymore questions let me know and I will try to help you the best I can, unfortunately I only deal with the Tremecs, but the basic principles will apply. jimig@standardtransmission.com

Sal and Jimi,
You think the Tremec is a better idea? Which one, the TKO 600? There seems to be quite a few issues with these things, locking up, jumping out of gear, shredding teeth, etc. I honestly haven't followed it all too closely, but are they reliable? What's involved with the crossmember? Thanks, guys.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by 1985 CCX

Doug,

It is hard to pinpoint since there are so many variables. Hardware will be the big factor. Keep in mind these cars are light and standard items like a clutch plate, bearings , etc are more reliable and less $ than high end racing equipment. Spend the $ wisely and I would guess you could do the switch, yourself of course, for around 2500-3000. Of course by looking for parts over time you may save capital and be better served using the auto with a shift linkage to appear as a std up front. Often Toploaders, bell housings, and big dollar items can be collected over time and coverted at a fraction of the cost.

Remember, when buying a Replica your are buying the car with motor and trans as an option. Would you rather have a 351C powered Contemporary or an FE powered stretched replica by someone else? I would take the CCX every time. Yes, I guess I am partial! In the end what makes you happy is what will work for you and save your sanity in this hobby. Jeff

Thanks, Jeff. I'm going to see the car at 5:00 tonight, and I'll call you back afterward. Thanks again!
Doug

[Toby]

Jockey,
I did the very thing that you are planning to do. In retrospect I would not do it again. Even though I am happy with how my project turned out, I would have been mucho dollars better had I just got what I wanted from the start. Look at the pictures in my gallery (before and after) and add about $10,000.00 and much anguish over parts, suppliers, and time. Just my .02 cents,having been where you are.

Toby

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Toby

Jockey,
I did the very thing that you are planning to do. In retrospect I would not do it again. Even though I am happy with how my project turned out, I would have been mucho dollars better had I just got what I wanted from the start. Look at the pictures in my gallery (before and after) and add about $10,000.00 and much anguish over parts, suppliers, and time. Just my .02 cents,having been where you are.

Toby

Toby,
I know, and agree with you totally. My problem is that I have to wait a significant amount of time saving to afford the level of car I want. I'd rather drive this with the addition of only the manual trans now and accumulate the cash needed to either make changes to this one or sell and buy something better, then continue to wait on the sidelines while saving $ for what I want.

At this point I'm just gathering info to see if this thing makes any sense whatsoever, or if it's just dumb. If it ends up costing a bit more in the end, but I get a few years of driving out of it, that's fine. If it ends up costing crazy amounts more, then it's not going to happen. I just need to try to estimate what that amount will be.

In an ideal world, I would just walk up to the Kirkhams or ERA and pony up whatever cash is needed, and walk out. God bless the many on this site who can do that. Unfortunately, I'm an airline pilot and Mr. Bin Laden has left his mark on my career. His actions and the whole 9/11 tragedy hurt my career and family finances in a huge way that we're still recovering from. This is about the only option available to me at this time. Not the best option, but the only game in town. Now I just need to gather info to see if it makes any sense at all. Thanks for the input, I truly do appreciate it. Anyone else have any input to lend? Ideas, suggestions, etc? I'd appreciate anything you guys have to say.

[Three Peaks]

I guess I'm in the camp of trying to enjoy the car as is without too much expenditure if you plan on getting most of your money back out of the car later.
The 351C should be plenty of engine for the car if it is set up right. Change the tranny and pedal box and you're home free. IMHO, the 5 speed is the way to go.
The most painless way to go would be to collect parts over time as you see good deals come up on the classifieds, ebay, craigslist, etc... and store the parts until you have everything you need. You'll be amazed at the money you can save by buying parts this way.
I would go with a hydraulic pedal box set up like the Wilwood unit and a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.
Keep you eyes open and you should be able to pick up a clutch new or with very few miles on it for around $200 including pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc...
Blowproof bellhousing for a Tremec is going to run $200 used, $375 or so new.
Hydraulic pedal box with master cylinders and remote reservoirs will run in the $300-400 range for Wilwood units.
You'll need an aftermarket shifter and they'll run $125-200 depending on the unit.
Watch the classifieds or craiglist and you can find a Tremec 3550, 500, or 600 for around $800 used in good condition.
You'll probably need to have a new driveline built also so figure around $200 for that unit.

So, on the low end you're going to be into it around $1800 minimum if you're a good shopper- plus installation unless you can do it yourself. Not a bad deal really for what you would gain in the deal.

Contemporarys are very nice replicas and worth spending a bit of money on to get it like you want. If you would like to keep it, don't worry how much you spend on it as long as you are doing it for yourself and you enjoy the car. Not many Cobra replicas on the market as solid feeling as a Contemporary, IMHO.