Slave Cylinder set-up for SBF

[351-EM]

I am trying to find ideas and/or pictures to help me set up my slave cylinder assembly on my Everett-Morrison. I am using a super duty T-5 with my 427W stroker and a wilwood slave cylinder, but it keeps kicking my butt during the set-up. Any ideas and pictures you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated. I have been away from my car for a while in the Navy and would like to work out the last issues to get her done.

Thanks,

Chris

[Tommy]

Sorry, no pictures but here's what I did. My E-M has a Richmond transmission and a pusher type slave cylinder. While laying under the car, I could see that the slave cylinder needed to be mounted about even with the front face of the scatter shield. As my slave cylinder had mounting holes perpendicular to the length of the cylinder, I realized an L-shaped bracket mounted to the scatter shield would work. I fabricated a bracket from a short lenth of angle iron with braces welded at each end to reduce flexing. I held the bracket in place and marked the locations for holes for mounting the bracket to the scatter shield. I also marked the bracket for holes for the slave cylinder and then drilled the holes. It works fine.

[sllib]

Chris;
When I set mine up (351 Dart, T600, McLeod street twin and scatter shield) my problem was the clutch arm hitting the frame no matter where I mounted my slave. After I carved the arm down to the point where it fit the frame but the piston end had nowhere to rest I finally gave up, took Unique's advice and bought a Mcleod hydraulic TOB from Standard Trans. Problem solved. Luckily I had the body off at the time or I'd still be bangin' away at it.
Bill Stradtner

[Burgs]

It's not an E-M, and it's not small block motor, but it is a small block fork with a drivers side pivot, a Willwood slave pulling to the rear, mounted to the frame with a single bolt. The square tube is only a spacer, and the nut holding the bolt is inside the footwell.

From the bottom looking up

[Rick 427 Cobra]

These brackets and kits are widely available. Most any Mustang parts house. Try http://www.autoworksracing.com/

[Burgs]

Rick, How is that setup working for you?

[Rick 427 Cobra]

For now I have a top loader,I'll let you know in a few months.

[Shelboss]

Take a look at my gallery for a photo of the set-up I made for mounting the clutch slave cylinder in a Contemporary frame. The cylinder is a CNC with the push rod shortened. The FE fork was ground down to clear the frame and a new spring mount hole drilled. The right angle bracket uses one bellhousing bolt to mount and the dowel to keep it located. The Lakewood scattershield mounts the clutch fork at a lower point, so either you have to raise the pivot up or cut down the arm. I don't like notching the 4" frame tube, it's strength is in it's round wall. Hydraulic throw-out bearings require pulling the transmission to service. My 2 cents worth,

[J Persons]

This is a Wilwood pull type slave, using a T5Z, and a SBF. The slave connects to a bracket that's bolted to an Energy Suspension motor mount. The shaft rides in the original hole in the bell housing and I used the plastic end of an old Mustang clutch cable as a bushing. The piece of stainless all thread and coupling nut I sourced from www.mcmaster.com. The slave works very well with a 1" Wilwood master cylinder.

[PNJSNAK]

Rick 427 Cobra:

The picture of the T5 mounted slave is exactly what I have, but after about a half hour of driving it feels like I need more clutch disengagement to shift into 1st gear at a light. It feels like the tranny gears are still spinning.
How much travel of the pivot arm is needed to typically disengage a clutch properly?
I have a Ford Racing 10.5" clutch and a 3/4" Wilwood master cylinder.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

[J Persons]

I have a Ford Racing 10.5" clutch and a 3/4" Wilwood master cylinder.

I had the same problem. A 1" wilwood master cured it.