Clutch Adjustments

[MrMagoo]

I just installed a new motor and a G-Force T5, with a Ram HD clutch, and a CNC slave cylinder (pull type). It all works well, with one major difference from my old setup: I have to step way down on the clutch to shift, whereas I used to be able to go about halfway down.

The clutch as it is right now is smooth on take off, sort of just right. I could live with the way it is, and just remind myself to push all the way down on the clutch.

My question: Would it help if I just tighten the nut on the clutch fork more? I don't want to start slipping, or make take-offs less smooth.

[patrickt]

First, adjust your clutch properly and see how it feels. I wrote this a couple years ago for a fellow ERA owner:

Originally Posted by patrickt

When I say “adjust the clutch” I mean adjusting the slave cylinder to clutch fork clearance so there is no unnecessary pressure on the throw out bearing. As your clutch disc breaks in the clutch fork will move closer to the slave cylinder (with a “push slave cylinder” like we have), so you have to adjust the clearance on it. 1900 miles is a good time to adjust it since it’s probably nicely broken in now. Here’s how to do it:

1) Here is a picture of the slave cylinder on my ERA, yours is probably identical. Note the return spring, the silver looking locknut that is on the threaded rod coming out of the slave cylinder, and the brass colored fitting that is on the rod next to the locknut and that actually contacts the clutch fork.



2) Remove the return spring and back off the silver locknut and brass colored fitting about a quarter inch or more towards the slave cylinder. You will need two half inch wrenches to do this. One to attach to the lock nut or the brass colored fitting, and the second to go around the nut that is on the very end of the threaded rod behind the clutch fork. You hold that nut to prevent the entire rod assembly from just rotating as you try to unscrew the nut or fitting. Use your finger and push the end of the threaded rod back in to the slave cylinder and you should now have an obvious distance (a quarter to a half inch) between the brass colored fitting and the clutch fork. The clutch fork is now in its natural position with no pressure on the throw out bearing and the brass colored fitting is not touching the clutch fork.

3) Use your fingers and tighten the brass colored fitting until it is tight against the clutch fork. Put a .063" feeler gauge between the silver locknut and the brass colored fitting and tighten the silver locknut so there is a .063" distance between the locknut and the fitting and the fitting is tight against the clutch fork. Remove the feeler gauge and tighten the brass colored fitting back up tight against the silver locknut without moving the locknut. Thus there is now a .063" distance between the fitting and the clutch fork and the locknut is tight against the brass colored fitting. Put the spring back on.