Mcleod TO Bearing seal replacement

KSW64 · #1 (**permalink**) 06-20-2008, 07:58 PM

I realize that there are about a thousand threads on CC about Hydraulic TO Bearings. Here's my problem. I have a T-5 with a Mcleod Hydraulic TO bearing. Single pedal pumps (between gears) I have a good pedal. But when I hold the clutch pedal down for greater than 3-4 seconds, the clutch starts to engage. After that, the next pedal pump is soft then the next is back to normal. I have bled the Wilwood Master cylinder 3 times and the TO Bearing 3 times. No change in the pattern. There is not a drop of fluid leaking anywhere.

Is it possible to determine if it is the TO or the Master Cylinder? Does anyone think the TO bearing should be rebuilt? Most of the comments on the threads refer to fluid leaks.

The TO Bearing is less than 2 years old and it just rolled 1500 miles last weekend.

Dazed and Confused,
KEN

xlr8or · #2 (**permalink**) 06-21-2008, 12:45 AM

I would think its the master not the bearing. The bearing simply expands from the pressure and volume of fluid being pumped in. If that is going away then the pump (master) is not holding pressure.

Mac VABCH · #3 (**permalink**) 06-21-2008, 01:03 AM

Have you installed a pedal stop? This prevents the TO bearing from overextending and blowing out the seal. Is the bleeder for the TO on the top of the TO as installed? If not it is very hard to get all the air out of it....Just some thing to look at...Mac

RICK LAKE · #4 (**permalink**) 06-21-2008, 07:19 AM

KSW64 Ken if you have bled the system that many time and gotten no air out of the bleeder, you have a master cylinder with an internal seal problem or you are boiling the fluid. 2 things to check on this. You can get a high pressure gauge and install it to the TOB line. bleed the line first and watch the pressure readings with full engagement of the pedal. If the pressure drops before 45 seconds the master is leaken internally. If not, you need to look at the slave cylinder. How is the pedal when the car is cold and first started?? Is the pedal hard and seams to be working OK? The problem could be the heat from the motor or side pipes heating the brake fluid to a high temp. It gets thinner when the fluid is 300f+ This can also cause the same problem. Make sure you have either shields around the master and lines or reflective high temp tape around the same parts. You coulkd also put a small bildge fans to blow cool air in this location. You should not need to but sometimes you have no choise. I wouldn't change the fluid to another DOT range, like from DOT3 to DOT4. Maybe a high grade of Fluid in DOT3 range. If you want to talk about this call me in the evenings at 732-254-3536 I'm in NJ Rick Lake

Naumoff · #5 (**permalink**) 06-21-2008, 08:49 AM

Ken,
Do you have fluid showing up around the bottom of the bellhousing?

KSW64 · #6 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 10:31 AM

Thanks to all. No fluid leaking anywhere. No pedal stop. The TO starts to engage when the engine compartment is cold. So, I ordered a Wilwood MC rebuild yesterday and hope it will do the trick. I will keep you up-to-date.
Ken