Bellhousing dowel pins

cal.cheesehead · #1 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 01:44 PM

I Installed my new Quicktime B/H on mt 351w this weekend. Much to my disapointment when I indicaterd the housing to the crank I'm not within spec. I'll make this short. Any suggestions on how to remove the exhisting pins would be appreciated. . thanks

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 01:47 PM

Do you have a slide hammer and welding machine? The easiest way for me to do it is to weld a nut onto the dowel and then use the slide hammer to pull it out.

cal.cheesehead · #3 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 03:09 PM

I'm concerned about breaking the ears off the motor casting.

eschaider · #4 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 04:02 PM

Removing the dowel pins will not fix your problem. The holes in the bell housing are off.

The best fix is to drill the dowel pin holes in the bellhousing .015" oversize, get a thick (.125" or more) washer ream the id to the dowel pin od. Bolt your bell housing to the block without tightening the bolts. Install a dial indicator on the end of the crank. Rotate the crank to find the bellhousing offset from center. Tap it into place with a hammer and tighten the bolts. Check one more time to be sure it has not moved and slip the reamed washers over the dowel pins. Weld the washers to the bellhousing.

You are done and your bell housing will now (and forever) fit correctly!

Ed

SSSammy · #5 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 05:07 PM

You don't say how far out your measurement is. If one half the total range of variation is .025" or less, you can choose one of three sizes of eccentric pins from Lakewood. They come in .007", .014", and .021" offsets.

I was not that lucky and had to do the process described by Ed above. I used the Lakewood kit for that. It's about $17:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

These pins are longer and will extend through your bellhousing and the welded bushing.

I have removed balky OEM pins by locking ViseGrips on them as tight as possible and twisting them out. I have also ground a flat side on them to get the ViseGrips to hold better ... if you don't have a welder handy.

Good luck!
Sam

cal.cheesehead · #6 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 07:59 PM

Side to side is dead on. The housing needs to come down about .005. I have tried a couple things to remove the pins with no luck, so I'll go with reaming the I.D. of the pin openings .010.

saltshaker · #7 (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 09:24 PM

use RobbMc dowel pins...just did this on a FE motor and it took less than 15min to index it.
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

mikeforte · #8 (**permalink**) 12-18-2008, 04:55 AM

Hi cal.,
Your bellhousing is within specs at .005". It is recommended that it be within .007" runout. I recommend using the Lakewood weld-on bushing kit.
Also removing the dowels can be done by drilling them out.
Best of luck,
Mike Forte

Rory428 · #9 (**permalink**) 02-08-2009, 10:01 PM

Be aware that if you do any grinding or welding on a SFI certifed bellhousing, you have effectively rendered that SFI approval void. If you don`t race the car, not a big deal, if you do race, it could be.
On my cars, I use the offset dowel pins to get the housing "dialed in". To prevent the dowel pins from moving out of position, I hold them in position with small Allen headed set screws that thread into holes that I drilled and tapped into the block near the dowels. This way they can`t move if you need to remove the housing at some point. Also, if you were to do the welded washer deal, it would be good on that particular engine block, but may well not be within spec if a different block is used later on.

David Kirkham · #10 (**permalink**) 02-08-2009, 11:34 PM

We got peeved with all the welding nightmares of oversized bushings and just made some pins up ourselves that have saved us a ton of time. Also, Rory428 is right. Some people get a little unhappy about welded up bell housings. So, we made our own. We put a hex on them so they were nice and easy to adjust. Even made them out of 17-4 PH. Yes, we are a little crazy

I'll post pics tomorrow.

As for getting the pins in the block out, we usually get a pair of vise grips on them and then hook onto the vise grips with a slide hammer. If that doesn't work, we weld a nut on to the pin and screw a bolt into the welded on nut. We then slide hammer the mess out. I have never broken an ear--or heard of anyone doing it either. But, that of course doesn't mean it hasn't happened!

Oh, BTW, 0.005 is within spec so frankly, I wouldn't worry about it. Count yourself lucky.

David

Cobra 29 · #11 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 08:15 PM

On my 351W block, I was able to drive them out with a narrow punch and hammer from the front side. I did this while the complete engine was in the car.

LMH · #12 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 10:34 PM

As has already been stated, yours are within spec. I'd do nothing with them.
That said, I've used these and like them a lot. Easy to install/adjust too.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=3

BTW, I've removed them by driving them out with a drift pin. Soak them overnight with some light oil and drive them out.
Larry

RodgerH · #13 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Kirkham

We got peeved with all the welding nightmares of oversized bushings and just made some pins up ourselves that have saved us a ton of time.

I'll post pics tomorrow.

David

Hey David,

No doubt you've been busy...probably swamped...but I'm interested in seeing the pictures if you will post them.

Thanks!
Rodger