Weber info from Inglese

[priobe]

Hello All,

I was on the phone with Inglese which has new owners "Comp Cams". I was speaking to their tech person for Inglese which suggested a few things. Please let me know know what you think. Here are the suggestions:

1. Remove phenolic spacers (Webers love heat)
2. Change to 37 mm choke (better thottle response) currently running 40 mm
3. main jet 170 - 180 (current 150)
4. Etube F-14 (currently F-16 which is good)
5. air 225 (current 130)
6. bleed 00 (good)
7. holder 120 (good)
8. 60 jet (good)

These recommendation cam from some sort of book based on cam specs which are 245 /250 @.50 .650 lift Compression 9.5



******Currently the car is running pretty good but plugs are still indicating rich condition.

[ENTDOC]

did he say where to get F14 tubes?

[priobe]

I recall reading a post that pierce manifold has them in stock.

But no he did not mention where to get them

[Rick Parker]

A 130 air with a 170 main would seem to present the possibility of a rich condition above 3000 RPM.

[priobe]

Rick,

Would you agree that the air should be much higher than 130 .... 225 as suggested by Inglese

[Rick Parker]

Everything I have read indicates the startng point should be at the main jet size + 60 and then fine tune from there. Sometimes it is suggested to put the air corrector number close to the main in a "Race application" when the engine is constantly in an acceleration mode. (Road Race) My personal belief is that this allows the main systme to "come in" quicker, and at the same time richens the mixture considerably. I am no expert, as I am still dialing mine in. But in your case I think you will find some improvement by weakening the main system mixture. Keep an eye on the plugs while making significant changes. Does you engine pull hard at 3500 and up? What size engine? Seems like a lot of duration for that static compression ratio.
For comparison on my 289 Currently:

37 chokes
155 Main jet
200 air corrector
60 idle jet
100 idle air jet
50 squirters
55 bypass in float bowl
F7 tubes
I have a flutter (light miss) at 60MPH @ 2900 RPM I can hear it in the pipes. When I depress the throttle the least amount, miss disappears. I am on the hunt. I am thinking 110 idle air

PS: A change to F16 Tubes cured the light miss.

[priobe]

I am running a 427 SO. Currently I am noticing that the carb are poping slightly when reaching above 2500 RPM. I am not experiencing the "famous" stmble at 2200- 2500 RPM. From 3500 on up I feel that there is still more power to be made.

[Rick Parker]

Read this fellows thread:

Interesting Weber jetting

[priobe]

Rick,
I dont know much about camshafts but I was told that this cam is good for my application. I was willing to change the cmashaft but many have said it is fine. I hope that makes sense.
Here are the cam specs:


Intake

Lobe Separation = 111.9
Valve overlap= 23.4
Valve open 14.6
Center line= 115.8
Valve close= 50.2
Duration: 244.37
Lobe Lift= .65956
Lobe area 30.85

Exhaust
Valve open = 60.5
Centerline = 115.8
Valve Close = 8.9
Duration 249.3
Lobe lift .3789
lobe Area 31.83

[Eljaro]

1. Remove phenolic spacers (Webers love heat)
2. Change to 37 mm choke (better thottle response) currently running 40 mm
3. main jet 170 - 180 (current 150)
4. Etube F-14 (currently F-16 which is good)
5. air 225 (current 130)
6. bleed 00 (good)
7. holder 120 (good)
8. 60 jet (good)

These are recomendations are for SB. With BB you have to apply different settings or it will not run well, rich most of the time.

1. But not too much. They tend to boil the gasoline and spill it.Your intake manifold gaskets will not like it and you wont like the smell. Phenolic spacers work.
2. good for a SB, no good for a BB
3. good for a SB, no good for a BB
4. agree 100%
5. good for a SB, no good for a BB
6. good for a BB, maybe not for SB
7. 100 holder better for BB
8. 60-65 jet, your finetune

Inglese may not tell you everything, they want to sell their setups and sell you the tuning with it. Not too much usable info from them I am afraid.