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Old 11-16-2010, 09:47 AM
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Default This Spinner Tool works great! Leather Wrapped

We just used this for the first time, it's fantastic. Just like with a hammer, you can feel the spinner hit "rock bottom" and "hit back". No broken spinners or no dings in the aluminum wheels. The padded leather is nice too, no scratches on the spinners. I know you lead hammer and wood guys are sold on your method, but for the less bold, you should check this out.

http://knockoffspinnertool.com/

(See the one for the cobra, not the Jag or Lotus...)
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:57 AM
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In my opinion:
Nothing beats a nice Lead hammer and a little experiance using it...
Proper spinner maintenance, occasional removal and inspection, and not over-tightening are the keys to easy removal...
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:08 AM
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Default Blas

I'm not disagreeing with you. But for me, this is idiot proof - and if you have ever seen me try to fix something - you'd know why that is valuable to me. I could do this now without a torque wrench because the feel is just as easy as a hammer. I'm not suggesting this is better than the tried and true hammer method, but it eliminates the mistakes and damage. I'll let you try it if you want, it made a believer out of me. It is no "paperweight" as someone described another tool.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:45 AM
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What is the proper torque for a spinner?

Based on my experience removing these guys, you better have a very long breaker bar. I will say though, if I had one in the garage I would probably use it.

Bob
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:38 PM
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Default Torque specs

I have not found torque specs for Cobra spinners, but the guy invested the tool said Lotus, in an old manual, recommeded 220 ft/lbs. That's about the only source I have heard quoted. I am not sure why it would be different for Halibrand knockoffs, but I wouldn't make a recommendation.
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Old 11-16-2010, 03:23 PM
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Wink spinners....

theres an old thread on here discussing how to to do this somewhere, but cant find it.
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Old 11-16-2010, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbocobra View Post
... in an old manual, recommeded 220 ft/lbs. That's about the only source I have heard quoted. I am not sure why it would be different for Halibrand knockoffs, but I wouldn't make a recommendation.
Now I don't know (and I use a lead hammer), but 220 ft/lbs sounds like a whole lot to me. Having torqued my crank bolt down to about 110 ft/lbs this summer, I think 220 would be a real b****.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:46 PM
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The lug nuts on my Focus call for 95 Ft-Lbs. 220 on that one big guy doesn't seem so unreasonable.

Porsche calls for 340 FT-LBS on their hubs.

Bob

Last edited by Bob In Ct; 11-20-2010 at 02:01 PM..
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:25 AM
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Default Torque

The mechanic who is helping me with my car said he used the hammer method to put it on, then a torque wrench in reverse and it came out to about 75 ft/lbs. I told him about the 220 number and he said "no way", it is obvious when you can't move it anymore and is easily confirmed with a hammer. I will test it tomorrow again when I pick up the car and post the results.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:21 AM
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Iron hammer, piece of wood...
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:30 AM
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Torqued my spinners to 65 lb-ft. Haven't moved in 3 yrs according to the safety wire. I check them before every drive.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:46 AM
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This appears to be a well-engineered alternative to the tried-and-true "beat-'em-on, beat-'em-off" method. Possibly for someone that isn't good at driving a nail with a hammer, but for most the old school method seems to work fine. To each his own.
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:33 PM
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Like THEY say, "ya can't teach an old dog new trick!"
Ralph
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:57 PM
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Default Spinner tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by elric View Post
Torqued my spinners to 65 lb-ft. Haven't moved in 3 yrs according to the safety wire. I check them before every drive.
I would feel a bit uneasy about leaving wheels on for that time and I would definitely use anti-seize.

I dont see the point in the leather on the tool all that does is soak up force and feel, the spinners are forged 6061 T6 the spinners should handle a snug well designed tool twisting on them. Good idea to avoid excess damage to the spinner.
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Last edited by Ant; 11-17-2010 at 02:59 PM..
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:19 PM
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Default Steel, please...

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Originally Posted by Ant View Post
Good idea to avoid excess damage to the spinner.
Perhaps with those wimpy aluminum spinners... but with steel spinners, you can whack them, drop them, throw them, and even dance on them and you ain't gonna damage them -- and the patina is quite fetching. And you can forget about ever breaking an ear off.


Last edited by patrickt; 10-27-2016 at 10:11 AM..
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Perhaps with those wimpy aluminum spinners... but with steel spinners, you can whack them, drop them, throw them, and even dance on them and you ain't gonna damage them -- and the patina is quite fetching. And you can forget about ever breaking an ear off.


That's the way to go...
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Old 11-19-2010, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bxx1 View Post
That's the way to go...
Yep, stainless steel spinners -- makes for a great stocking-stuffer. $320 in satin finish, or $400 for the polished. http://www.cobraracing.com/ProductsPages/wingnuts.html
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Old 08-22-2019, 03:17 PM
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Anywhere else this tool can be purchased at?
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Old 08-22-2019, 04:43 PM
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If you are needing to hit your spinners so hard that you are damaging them than you are putting them on to tight...
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Old 08-22-2019, 05:03 PM
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I'm a little concerned over some of these spinner adaptors being used with a breakover bar. I know on my 66 Corvette the factory torque design for the hub/spinner is 450 ft lbs. I would suspect it's not much, if any less for a Cobra hub/spinner. That takes a pretty long bar for the average person to get that high. A good pneumatic impact gun with an adaptor would get there. Of course no one knows how tight a 6 lb lead hammer gets it without some testing but I suspect if your tighten them until you hear the sound of the hammer blows distinctly change to a hard metallic sound - it's pretty high.
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