Can someone ID this kit

[axiomtherapy]

I am not computer savvy so I cant post the pictures, but I have a chance to buy a Cobra whose owned does not know the brand of kit. This is the chassis number...UTT02160

If someone wants to message me with an email address I will send pictures so they can be posted by someone else
Thanks!

[G-Pete]

Is it still for sale, like one year ago for $25k??

[axiomtherapy]

G Pete Im not sure if its the same one. Its red with white stripes

[axiomtherapy]

This is everything I know ... 1966 Ford Cobra Replica.

Approximately 11,600 miles on it.

Engine Size is a 302 based on engine block code 22E5AEC3B.

VIN is UTT02160



Red with Racing Stripes. American Racing Chrome Rims. Manual Transmission.

[G-Pete]

There are a few red flags, for one it is not registered nor inspected. Also the seller has no clue what he has -- or what you get.

For me personal, I would not drop 25k for that little information...



PS, you got a PM with my email address.

[axiomtherapy]

Here is another one that popped up that I cant ID. Any ideas?

Replica Kit Makes Cobra Cobra | eBay

[la cobra]

My guess l.a. Exotic......b&b

[Paul F]

Forget the first one for the reasons already stated.

The second one is not an LA Exotics/B&B. The roll bar, the door at the dash, the bar across the front, and other items are different.

[G-Pete]

Originally Posted by axiomtherapy

Here is another one that popped up that I cant ID. Any ideas?

Replica Kit Makes Cobra Cobra | eBay

Well, this car - again they don't know what they selling and you don't know what you getting.

Some remarks "Occasionally one of the brakes will stick" - come on. The car is 32 years old, there will be more surprises, costly surprises.


What is your budget?

[joyridin']

Just a bit of advice as others posting have stated. I bought my Cobra as a good deal. I do not regret it because i love the car, but all those little things that seem easy to fix really are not. A sticking brake turned into a set of calipers, rotors, and pads. This was on a Jag rear end. The loose tie rod was both inner and outer tie rods. The hesitation in the engine was a new carb, ignition, and a few other things. The couple of paint scratches is enamel paint that needs a new paint job. The oil leak was a rear main seal. The list goes on and on.

I enjoy working on the car, but all said and done, i could probably have bought a SPF, but i could not afford that at the time. I am not saying a cheap car is a bad deal, but it is cheap for a reason. Buy the best car you can afford. You will be miles ahead. Also, buy a known brand that is preferably still in business. If you do not have a lot of cash, buy an older Factory 5. Parts are easy to find, and you can fix it at home with parts from your local auto parts store. You can always trade up later if you outgrow the car.

[Dwight]

have you seen this one?

You can drive this one home

PhotoPost Classifieds - Shell Valley Cobra for sale - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds
Dwight

[TexasSnake]

This car is definitely not a B&B. Judging from the appearance my guess is that it may be a North American Fiberglass (NAF) car.

[GVS]

I second TexasSnake: looks like an NAF car to me. NAF installed a plate in the engine bay with their information. They used a Mustang II from suspension & brakes, and a 4-link rear suspension with Ford 8" rear axle with drum brakes. A 9" rear axle was an upgrade. Most were equipped iwth a 302ci and Borg-Warner T-5 5-speed (this was prior to Tremec buying this design in the 1990s). These were assembled in Arizona by NAF (rather than an owner-assembled kit).

Pictures of the chassis would help.

[frdfver]

Not a NAF unless it is a real early one before 1989. Mine is a 89 and there are to many differences. It looks more like a Shell Valley to me that they put a dash on top of the glassed in dash.

Paul...