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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:21 PM
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Default Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket

Anyone ever use it, and if so, for what?

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM42Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=35ZE 6PXHNFYIL&coliid=I19R39383G4CBJ&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Permatex 80017 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant, 16 oz.: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HfE7Na6kL.@@AMEPARAM@@41HfE7Na6kL[/ame]

I've been thinking through my upcoming oil pan installation. An FE with a windage tray and two gaskets. I will use Permatex Gasket Cement to glue the gaskets to the windage tray, and then use something else between the pan and the tray, and the tray and the block.

I was going to use The Right Stuff as the "something else." Problem is, it sets up fast, maybe 5-7 minutes. In that time, I have to put a thin coat on two large gasket surfaces, clean the excess out of the bolt holes, put the windage tray up, bolt the oil pickup tube to the pump, raise the pan on to the studs, and get the nuts on and at least snug them, before I go around and tighten them. I'm pretty quick - especially with the studs - but there's no way I can do it that fast.

Not sure what the setup time of TA-31 is, but I *think* it's short as well. Could this Aviation stuff be an option? One of the selling points is slow set-up time, and it is oil and gas resistant. Some guy on another forum even said it sealed up the engine on his British car and it doesn't leak. If that's not intriguing, I don't know what is.

Any experience with this stuff would be helpful. Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:16 AM
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There is a NO.2 and and a NO.3 in non-hardening.

I think you be better with a NO.2.

Gasket Sealants : Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant

permatex form a gasket | eBay

Have used both with great success.

My favourite is Ultra Grey.

There is a use for all sealants, as specified by the manufacturer.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:24 AM
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I have a tube of the no 2 (not aviation) but haven't used it in years. If it has to be removed it's a real pain to clean up for a new gasket as it gets pretty hard. I stick with no 3. But, don't know about the aviation rated stuff??
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:39 AM
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The Aviation stuff is useful mostly for metal-to-metal sealing, like on some gasketless transmission joints. Since it's non-hardening, thicker gaskets can slide out of place.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
My favourite is Ultra Grey.
Same here. I used Ultra Grey on my pan/windage tray and never had a leak.

Ted
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:57 AM
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The only time I've ever used Aviation Form-A-Gasket was resealing a fuel sender on my old AutoKraft's vertical tank. I put it on the tank, sender and cork gasket. Kinda nasty but worked great.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:10 AM
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Great, thanks. Sounds like Bob has the use case for this stuff nailed.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:17 AM
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It won't wok on an oil pan. Use the right stuff, grey, on everything and don't over tighten. Aviation sealer is 75 year old technology that is still fine on mated surfaces and paper gaskets, neither of which is on the bottom of your engine.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:27 AM
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Tim,

I'd have to disagree. It should work fine on an oil pan, though the pan would be somewhat difficult to remove.

I use this product extensively to seal case halves when I build Porsche motors. One advantage is that it never truly hardens, so it has some give when the two parts move slightly. Additionally, it does a pretty good job with filling minor imperfections in the mating surfaces. Obviously, extended exposure to oil is not a problem.

You can use it without a gasket if the surfaces are good. I also use it with paper gaskets on things like the oil pump cover on 356/912 motors.

Like I said, it seals pretty well, but wont separate as easily as RTV.
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:38 PM
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I have had good results with the Motorcraft TA-29 and TA-31. Both pretty nasty stuff.
Lippy, are you using the Milodon 40450 gaskets?
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Old 01-29-2016, 02:40 PM
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Form a gasket works great on paper gaskets and mating surfaces as previously mentioned.
It stinks and you'll find it all over the place after you've used it.
You generally have to scrape surfaces to remove the gaskets down the track.
I have used it before on oil pans but you have to be really careful with torquing down with cork gaskets coated with this stuff as it tends to help the gasket squeegee out...
To be honest there are probably more suitable products around these days !!
In the 80s, a bottle of Form-a-gasket was a 'do it all' in your Arsenal of seal it products for us..
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Old 01-29-2016, 02:47 PM
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My engine builder recommend using a thin amount around water passage ports on the head gaskets when I replace them.

Phil
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Old 01-29-2016, 04:30 PM
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I used 3M General Purpose Spray adhesive on all cork/paper gaskets. Spray it on the metal portion, put on the gasket, turn it over and let it sit a bit until the adhesive dries, and bolt it up. I have never had a problem leaking and it is clean.
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:32 PM
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User Rick Lake suggested I use that stuff generously to glue the gaskets to the windage tray just as you describe and it works. I then use the Motorcraft TA-31 grey RTV sealant for the tray to block and pan to tray. It is the production line sealant for Ford's Diesel engines and gives a little longer setup time than the Right Stuff. Once I started doing it this way....no more leaks. I would not glue all surfaces with that aviation stuff though, it's very tough to get apart.

Jim

Last edited by elmariachi; 02-01-2016 at 08:35 PM..
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