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Kirkham Motorsports

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  • 1 Post By HTM101
  • 3 Post By strictlypersonl
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:25 PM
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Default Brake reseviors and lines too hot

Hello all;
My kirkham has the 3 can set-up for brake and clutch fluid. The cans are on the drivers side mounted on the inner fender well with high pressure hose going to the master cyl's, just under and behind the headers. The heat from the exhaust is so hot, the fluid in the resiviors turns brown, and has in the past turned the seals in a master cyl to black mush. There is fire sleeve on the lines and the headers are wrapped, but it all still gets too hot. There is no good place for the resiviors or lines to move to in the engine compartment.
I saw what AC Ventura did on the "nice panels" thread, so that is one option.
Anyone else have this problem and found a cure ?
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Old 07-29-2019, 01:17 PM
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my reservoirs on the 289 race car are n the same place. I have wrapped the reservoirs in heat tape and added an aluminum shield with spacers over the existing heat shield and placed heat insulation on that as well. Has reduced the boiling of the brake fluid.

Jim
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:42 PM
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The reservoirs can go almost anywhere that's higher than the MC.

Quality heat shields in all the right places - and properly installed - will reduce mot of the heat transfer.

Cut a hole in splash shield behind the tire, and direct a flow of cooling air towards the MC and lines. You could even install a bulge fan to blow cooling air on them when the car isn't moving.
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:50 PM
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My car is a Hi-Tech with a big block. Since I began driving it, excessive engine bay heat had been an ongoing challenge for many years. These are most of the heat management steps I've made that have cumulatively worked to resolve the issue.

1. Glued two small rubber blocks under the rear edge of the hood. They measure 7/16" square by 3" long. They allow some underhood heat to escape.

2. Wrapped the primary header pipes from the engine block to the fender, with Thermo Tec 2" wide heat barrier. The pipes are mild steel and were Jet Hot coated, inside and out, in 1994. They've been wrapped for 24 years. I've had to re-wrap them several times, most recently last year. The pipes show no sign of any rust. The wrap reduced a significant amount of heat.

3. Installed a double insulated barrier between the master cylinders and the primary headers. cobrakiwi makes these.



4. Several years ago I added 2 screens to each front inner fender panel.



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Last edited by HTM101; 07-29-2019 at 07:00 PM..
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:27 AM
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I have been wondering about the holes in the inner fender wells, is the wheel well a hi pressure area ? ERA has been doing wheel well openings for some time now, anyone else have experience with these ? Where do you get the screen material ?
Still pulling things apart & analysing .
Leaning toward single resivior under top of drivers footbox.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:46 AM
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Unless you've been bleeding the brakes, fluid from the reservoir never gets to the master cylinders. The hot fluid in the lines stays put. If their fluid's color is turning brown, it's from leaching from the hose, not overheating.

A slight addendum...
The fluid in the hose does work its way down to the master cylinder as the brake pads wear and the piston's rest position moves out. That, however, happens very slowly, over thousands of miles.

Last edited by strictlypersonl; 08-04-2019 at 06:39 AM..
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Old 07-30-2019, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD View Post
I have been wondering about the holes in the inner fender wells, is the wheel well a hi pressure area ? ERA has been doing wheel well openings for some time now, anyone else have experience with these ? Where do you get the screen material ?
Still pulling things apart & analysing .
Leaning toward single resivior under top of drivers footbox.
The screen is from McMaster-Carr. I used 430 stainless wire cloth, 6x6 mesh size. They offer a good selection of mesh types and sizes.
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