Roush 427R recommended intake manifold gasket?

[saki302]

Hello,

Thanks all for the oil pan gasket recommendations-

I'm now getting ready to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

Which is the recommended gasket to go with on the Roush 351W motors? (427R, vic jr intake)

I'm looking at the Edelbrock 7219 or Fel-pro 1262S3
I also see one mention of Edelbrock 7220 gaskets..

Would these be a good match to the roush heads and Vic jr intake?

I was reading an old thread about the roush motors using an improper intake gasket as-built from the factory.

Thanks!

-Dave

[jeffgrice]

Originally Posted by saki302

Hello,

Thanks all for the oil pan gasket recommendations-

I'm now getting ready to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

Which is the recommended gasket to go with on the Roush 351W motors? (427R, vic jr intake)

I'm looking at the Edelbrock 7219 or Fel-pro 1262S3
I also see one mention of Edelbrock 7220 gaskets..

Would these be a good match to the roush heads and Vic jr intake?

I was reading an old thread about the roush motors using an improper intake gasket as-built from the factory.

Thanks!

-Dave

Dave,

When my 427sr sucked the intake gasket Roush said they their intake gasket is a special design and highly recommended ordering it versus an aftermarket.

So I would contact them to be sure.

Jeff

[saki302]

I sent them an email just now, thanks!

[blykins]

That's goofy. They use AFR heads, which use a Felpro 1262 gasket.

[saki302]

Haha, thanks- should I get the steel core one, and just use RTV to seal the china walls?

I remember doing that in the mid 90s when I had my 5.0 Mustang

Thanks!

-Dave

[blykins]

I don't use the steel core gaskets. Just the plain ones.

The key to a successful intake gasket installation is to glue the gaskets to the heads so they don't move around and then use a very thin layer of silicone between the gasket and the intake. I also use silicone on the china walls. Cork/rubber can pose too many problems.

A lot of people have their favorites: Motorcraft TA-31, Right Stuff, etc. I use Dow Corning 732 clear silicone for everything in the first paragraph. Been using it for years.

[Tom Wells]

At the risk of contradicting more experienced engine gurus (you know who you are :-), please look at this thread: 390 problems | Capital Area Cobra Club

If you look on the 'net for them, you can find lots of other folks who have experienced similar intake gasket failures posting similar threads.

The failures appear to be across the board, affecting small blocks, FEs, 385s and all. It seems to occur mostly in engines driven frequently, where heat cycles mount up. I've had it happen to my cars (both 385s) and seen it in 351s and FEs personally.

I use Victor Reinz gaskets now, and no more problems. They are reinforced.

The Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal (AKA Fail-Prone Print-O-Leak) are fine for race engines and any others that experience relatively few heat cycles between intake manifold R&R for maintenance.

After we confronted Fel-Pro at the PRI Show a number of years ago, we got vehement denial followed by their issuance of their steel reinforced intake gaskets, denoted by an "S" on the end of the part number.

Use what you want to use! Just be prepared for a possible consequence.

Just sayin'

Tom

[blykins]

The FE is a different animal. The intake gasket is essentially submerged in oil.

I will say that, to this day, I haven't not had any issues with Windsors and using that 1262 gasket. The majority of my Windsors use AFR and TFS heads and they all get that gasket. As a matter of fact, I don't like using the steel gasket because there is not a lot of "give" on the sealing surface.

One caveat: I use sealant and I also make sure every intake manifold is flat/straight/angled correctly on the flanges. I feel like that is the problems that most people face. You can't simply buy an intake manifold and bolt it on.

On FE's, I will use Mr. Gasket paper gaskets, with sealant.

[olddog]

My aluminum heads were not tapped deep enough on the 4 corners. More accurately they failed to run a bottom tap. The threads tapered tighter at the bottom and locked the bolts up before the heads touched the intake. I could fit a 0.005" feeler between the bolt head and the intake, with the bolt torqued to spec.

I always screw the bolts into the heads with the intake off and make sure they do not bottom out too soon, since that happened to me.

I used the Victor Reinz gaskets and followed all the advice given by Blykins above. I also re-torqued the bolts after a half dozen temp cycles, and every one turned about an 1/8 of a turn (maybe a little less). I think I did this in 2008 or 2009. No issue since.

Full disclosure, I used studs, with stainless steel nuts and washers. Then I put stainless steel acorn nuts on top. The acorn nuts act as a jam nut. The studs were set with a removable lock tight in the heads. Also you have to set the studs at the correct depth to make all this work, which includes the correct length stud. The looks were worth the effort IMHO.