Brake lights

[w-lewis]

My brake lights don’t work, yet taillights, headlights and turn signals all work. When I upgraded my taillights to LED’s years ago, I replaced the flasher. Could the flasher have gone bad causing the brake lights to go out?

[Snake2998]

The flasher unit is unlikely to affect the brake lights - the most likely problem (if not bad lamps) is a loose connection or earth in the system, check with a voltmeter when brake pedal depressed - if connections are good then the next most likely problem is with the switch which is either mechanical or hydraulic. again check for continuity of circuit when pedal depressed.

[w-lewis]

Where would be the most likely location of the switch?

[Blas]

If it’s only the brake lights not working, look for a switch on the brake pedal arm or a pressure switch on the brake cylinder reservoir. Not knowing what the tail light fixture configuration is or what manufacturer your car is, but it would appear there is ground to the fixture if turn signal and running lights work.
Blas

[w-lewis]

I believe I found it. A fitting screwed into the brass brake line junction block.

[Unique427]

Originally Posted by w-lewis

I believe I found it. A fitting screwed into the brass brake line junction block.

If it looks like this you found it.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brake...SABEgJJhvD_BwE

They do go bad, as in not working, intermittent or you have to
pump the brakes up to make it work. Don't rule out a bad wire.
Sometimes one of the two wires simply pop off the bayonet plug too.

You may or may not have to bleed the brakes after install.

[w-lewis]

That’s it! Thanks. It’s only 24 years old, so it might be time to go bad.

[w-lewis]

We’ll guys, the switch was bad. Finally got it replaced. Holdup was trying to do it myself, trying to hold the brass junction block steady without twisting and bending the brake lines while putting a socket on the switch. Couldn’t do it so I’ve been waiting to get it into a shop on a lift with someone else holding the block from below while I loosen the switch with a socket from above. Woke up with the brilliant idea of spraying PB Blaster on the block where the switch is screwed in. That did the trick, as I was able to hold the block steady with pliers in one hand and with other hand break the switch loose with a socket. Screwed in new switch and Brake lights work now. Thanks to all for the tips.

[LG57]

Glad you found it. I had the same problem on my ERA. The switch had continuity, but would not pass voltage.

[PDUB]

Congrats on the success, Walt!

[w-lewis]

Thanks!