20"x 9.5" oval air cleaner is a cast aluminum bottos playe a better choice than a she

[Michael C Henry]

Sorry about the fat fingered TITLE
I have an older black 20"x 9.5"COBRA cast aluminum (2x4s) oval air cleaner that I bought over twenty-two years ago. It has a paper air element and a stamped sheet metal bottom plate. I do not know if there was a problem with sheet metal 2x4s lowers, but the 2x4s cast ovals that are currently advertised, are also mostly a cast aluminum lower plate. I do see that the sheet metal is stamped out and has two 5/8"tall neck rings raising the lower that much higher above the carbs. the cast lower plates only have about a 1/4" mounting necks. Since I intend on changing the hood, clearance is not an absolute. The adds that are now, they do not show or mention any thing about the Cobra 2x4 oval air cleaner having stamped sheet metal lower plate. Is one better than the other?
Also, what about the gasket rings where the lower plate mounts on the carb?

[KarlzEE Bebout]

I just had to look at this to see what language you were typing.

[scootter]

This is better then the oval one I had.

[Michael C Henry]

Remember I'm talking about a Cobra cast aluminum air cleaner for inline dual fours, that is what I have. I'm going to buy a Blue Thunder 4" tall cleanable element. Question was, is there any reason sheet metal bases are not mentioned or shown in current advertisements, but the cast aluminum base plates are mentioned and shown. The stamped sheet metal bases have an additional height added because of the mounting flanges. Is or was there a problem with the sheet metal bases for the oval air cleaners for the dual fours? Before I order two elements, 4 wing nuts, and maybe a cast aluminum base in one shot to get a break on the shipping. Should I buy a cast aluminum oval base?

[FFR428]

The 66 R code Fairlane 427 cars had a unique 2x4 air cleaner. Flat base with cutouts. And outer area for foam base. May offer a little extra room under hood. My part is for a MR/TP carb space. A great old friend sent me a spare he had for my build. You can make it any size from flat stock aluminum.

[Michael C Henry]

I have an acquaintance that has a 67 427 Fairlane with TP, in fact his whole garage has cars with tunnel ports. Anyway, what does the foam fit against? How thick is the aluminum plate to not flex under element? I'm guessing the four smaller holes in the base plate are to clear the float adjustment screws. Do you tape over the holes when running with element in place?
Remember I'm running in Cobra replica. I have Dove Tunnel Wedge dual fours intake. That leaves me with 1 1/2" for an air cleaners under the hood line. Abd that will leave marks on the underside of the hood. Their is a SC scoop but it does not actually get much air in. It is for looks. The hood comes back under the scoop to about the first third of the front air cleaner. I have never liked the hood scoop and air cleaner set up. I do not intend on changing the engine but now wish the original builder would have made different carb and manifold choices, but it is what it is. I'm sure the original builder used the car in competition without any air cleaners.
I intend on having another hood made with a cowl induction scoop or raised portion to protect and clear a taller air cleaner. That might work. I'll keep the foam idea and use a MOROSO pan and foam to seal off the hood under the scoop. Currently I have 1 1/2" below hood line and will have another 2 1/2" or a little more of air cleaner above the hood in the new raised area of a hood bulge or what ever we are going to call it.

[Michael C Henry]

I'm sorry I thought It had not loaded.

[FFR428]

The aluminum plate is 0.200" thick. Very stiff and does not bend. The foam butts to the underside area of the hood scoop. On the 66 Fairlane application anyway. Google for pics. You can really make it any size that works for you. May add a little height laying flat to the air filter choice.

[Michael C Henry]

I'd like to see more pictures please. The dark line inside the edge is a Sharpy tracing the filter element, I'm guessing? Did you form any ridge or bead to keep element in place? Why is the plates perimeter, front or back, not the same?
It is a given that any air filter that I will be using is going to be higher than what I'm running now. Coming upwards, through the hood line is my plan. When I do it, I intend on getting a cowl induction scoop to give the air cleaner filter and ignition distributer a sheltered area. Not buying a cast lower oval plate will save a little and lower the air cleaner about a 1/4" to start with.

[FFR428]

Yes it's just a rough sharpie line. I'd have to measure it but think it included the area for the foam to be added. He made 2 of them. This was the first he made. It can be cut to any shape. No bead was formed yet. Send me a PM and what pictures you'd like to see. Or happy to post them here for all if you like?

[Michael C Henry]

I did like the base plate idea it lowers everything to its minimum height. Glad I saw it before I had spent the $140 online. I think this will be a better fit for me. Where I'm going from here is Using my black "COBRA"' cast aluminum oval dual four top, a Blue Thunder 4" tall element, and make a bottom plate from aluminum flat stock with a margin outside the filter element for a foam seal to be glued to. The cast oval filter top and element will go through the hood line. The plan is to have another hood built with a rear facing induction scoop built in. The foam on the dual base plate and foam will seal against the underside of the hood and the filter element and cast top will be extend into the new raised area that the scoop will create. So far, the in duction scoop that I have seen and like most is a SUNOCO BUBLE, but it is either too high or too wide. But It is a starting point to try to explain what I want. I have been out looking online and have saved and printed pictures of Cobra replicas with non-traditional hoods and scoops. Pictures are what I've chosen to explain what I want. how wide is the foam andhow much room between the element and the foam?

[Michael C Henry]

I removed my S&H air cleaners an used the cast aluminum oval dual four base plate. that I had. With that oval dual four cast aluminum base plate and its two 1/4" rings, the plate cleared the distributer wires and all by 1 1/2". I could add 2" of material all the way around the filter element . The closest thing is the oil breather on the front of right valve cover. I tried to turn the base plate upside down and it defiantly hits the float adjusters, So the four smaller holes were to clear the float adjusters. How wide of foam was to be used as seal against the hood? and how much room did you leave between foam seal and filter element? I think I could use a slightly smaller holes for the carb mount. The cast aluminum base plate was really loose on the carbs and could be shifted more than 1/8" in any direction. I mounted my new Blue Thunder 4" tall oval air cleaner filter element and it looks great. Once I have built the new oval base plate the new hood will be a winter project. I'd like to hear more info if you could?