Advice Wanted - Electrical Issues

PaulColbert · #1 (**permalink**) 08-23-2023, 01:19 AM

Hello.
As an amateur British guy, I have always had a strong affinity for daily masturbation and the excitement that comes with it. One thing that has truly enhanced my experience is live sex cams sites. These platforms have opened up a whole new world of pleasure for me and I can't help but share my love for them. So, here are 50 sentences about live sex cams sites.

https://adultcam69.com/trans
https://livecamcouple.net/chat/lil_sophies_destruction
https://milflivecam.net/chat/glam_cat

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 08-23-2023, 04:35 AM

12g is definitely too small but the drop to below 12V with a load indicates an additional excessive resistance between the battery connection and your loads (or possibly a weak battery).
Are you using standard pulley diameters on the crank and alternator?

Tommy · #3 (**permalink**) 08-23-2023, 06:36 AM

Regarding the wire gauge - an online calculator says a 13 volt source pushing 50 amps through 5 feet of 12 AWG wire will drop to just below 12 volts at the end. So that may be your problem. Here's a link to the calculator so you can evaluate other AWG options: Link

As for the routing - I wired my Cheetah with the main positive battery cable going directly to the starter solenoid, and from there through an 80 amp fuse to the main bus. The alternator output goes through an 80 amp fuse to the same main bus. If you route your alternator output to the + battery cable at the starter you are effectively using that post as the main bus that powers every other system in the car. That is not an uncommon way to do it. P.S. If the fittings at the ends of either of your battery cables are loose or corroded, that may be part of the problem too.

C5GTO · #4 (**permalink**) 08-23-2023, 06:52 AM

I think what you've found is an issue that was present in some CR Cobra wiring harnesses. I say "some" because I don't know if all CR wiring harnesses were the same. I'm working from memory for a build that I did in the mid-90's, but I do recall adding a larger gauge wire between the alternator and the circuit breaker, and then another wire between circuit breaker and the fuse block to carry the amperage to where it is consumed. The wiring harness as delivered with my kit by CR had a single, too small wire to carry the alternator produced amperage under heavy load conditions like when the cooling fan energized.

cycleguy55 · #5 (**permalink**) 08-23-2023, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulColbert

Hello.

I recently took sometime to try to find out why I am having charging issues with my CR, which is volts falling below 12V with headlights, fans, and the fuel pump on. I tested the battery and its good to go. I had the alternator tested and its 105 amp with an output of 14.7. In discussions with the guy at the alternator shop I found out the charging wire coming off of the alternator is way too small like 12 gauge too small (previous owner issue ). I'm in the process of tracing the wire and it is doesn't look like it is going to the battery.

SO, my questions are...what is the normal gauge wire for the output wire for the alternator? (6 gauge?)...Should the charging wire go direct to the battery or can it be wired to the starter relay which has a positive connection directly from the battery. I am leaning toward direct wire to the battery.

Thanks,
Paul

If the alternator was tested to produce 14.7 volts, what RPM did they use?

At what RPM were your voltages measured? 1G alternators don't have a great deal of output at idle, so going to a 3G alternator would help with that. See this chart and how current (not voltage) drops off. It's notable the chart starts at 900 RPM and I'm sure you can appreciate it would be much less at lower RPM.

Like others, I'd suggest your charging wire is much smaller than required.

Source: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/in...r-older-fords/

Blas · #6 (**permalink**) 08-23-2023, 03:14 PM

6mm (10AWG) stranded copper (min) should be an adequate replacement wire size
Blas

strictlypersonl · #7 (**permalink**) 08-24-2023, 05:16 AM

A note...
Just because an alternator is capable of 130A, doesn't mean it's putting that out all the time. Given an adequate RPM, the output will be total of active loads and what is used charging the battery. In order to charge the battery, you need a minimum of 12.8V (where the charge graph crosses zero).

cycleguy55 · #8 (**permalink**) 08-24-2023, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

A note...
Just because an alternator is capable of 130A, doesn't mean it's putting that out all the time. Given an adequate RPM, the output will be total of active loads and what is used charging the battery. In order to charge the battery, you need a minimum of 12.8V (where the charge graph crosses zero).

Minor correction: "Given an adequate RPM, the alternator output will be total of active loads, losses due to resistance, and what is used charging the battery."