If you have the windshield out make sure to

[Michael C Henry]

If you have the windshield, out make sure the side mounting holes (10-32) are full good threads. If not Heli-Coil those holes to take advantage of full threads. My windshield has been in out and has been operating with some screws that only unscrewed one and a half turns till they came out. Probably short, not having enough threads contact so the threads gave up. The Heli-Coil can be trimmed so they will fit the chromed windshield side brackets depth.
My windshield frame appears to be chromed aluminum, not very though. SS Heli-Coils coils can be trimmed to match the thread depth in the windshield side frames giving lasting threads that will actually hole and not go to crap. And then you can trim the screws to fit and still not touch the glass. Removing the side frames one at a time can then be precisely drilled and threaded on a controlled fixture like a drill press. There are now other brands thread repair kits using coils.

[Tom Kirkham]

Also be sure and check to make sure the screws do not protrude through the frame so they can touch the windshield. If the screw touches the glass it will crack the windshield.
The fix is to grind down the end of the screw so that it is flush with the inside of the frame.

[Michael C Henry]

If you get the windshield side frame threaded holes repaired. The new full durable threads. that should be enough. Four 10-32 threads on each side (8 total). Better screws now than were available before. I like the coil thread replacement method. That Heli-Coil brand has been copied and is available under different brand names. Precision drilled and threaded makes better threads than original. The damaged original threaded hole is precision drilled with specified oversized drill bit and then taped with special tap. Then the coil is carefully installed, creating durable outer threads with the same thread count and fitting the specific screw. Removing the windshield side frames and using a drill press will create a better threaded hole. The repair kits come with a tap and coil installation tool and a few extra coils. there usually different drill bits for steel and aluminum, So they are usually bought separately. and the replacement thread coils can be bought separately. The coils come in different lengths and self-locking or not. I use a die grinder with a cutting disk to trim coils that are too long. Now a screw longer than you have threads, there is not any advantage. No more holding power and it will crack the windshield glass. I have used the coils in repairing machinery for the last 60 years. Oh, the coils are like coiled springs and actually have a tread profile in the coiled material. They have a hook formed in the stacked coil end, for screwing the coil into position Once installed, break that hook off / There is crimp to break that hook off I have gotten parts that were repaired using the coils. Problem was the previous worker did not break the hook off the coil I did not notice and when I installed my 3/8 NC bolts. the coil had been stretched, the tread did not match the bolt when the coil was stretched, and the bolt was threaded into the mismatched threads. The coil and the bolt were mangled. Screw the coil just near the edge of the hole and stop. If the coil is too long, there is nothing in the way you can just continue screwing coil through and cut the coil to the now known correct length and reinstall the now adjusted length coil. Break off the hook and cut the coil other end to flush and use that to adjust the other coil before trying to install them. The coils should be just a small fraction shorter than the material being install ed in. I've been doing this for so long it doesn't seem that difficult. Remember to break the little curl off once you are done.

[Michael C Henry]

My car is together for now. I was reinstalling the wind wings and never being satisfied, started checking the other 10-32 screws holding the windshield and frame to the uprights. I found first screw was loose in one turn. Not confident. The top right screw just spins. Then the lower right I wasn't happy and tried a lounger screw and it touched the windshield and cracked the glass edge.
Just how deep are the 10-32 threads in the windshield frame? I'd hope that if you were to use the full good threads in the windshield frame it would be enough. I'm sure that not using the full threads caused the threads to fail to the point where I'm now. I'm retried now and spend too much time watching TV at homes now. We have gone to streaming and I stumbled onto a series Called "Fantom Werks" on MAX. the episodes are several years old now. In one episode they were to install a convertible top on a 1924 Morgan. They used" lift dot" fasteners on the f of the windshield frame. The windshield was a flat pies. They went to grind small notches for the "lift dot" post to screw into. Turns out because it was flat piece glass , it turned out to be tempered glass and shattered wright off the bat. They were surprised that it was not laminated safety glass. I missed the part but ended with another windshield glass mounted with the convertible top Is that even an option? I'm talking about grindin notches in laminated windshield no lift dot fasteners.

[Michael C Henry]

My car is together for now. I was reinstalling the wind wings, and never being satisfied, started checking the other 10-32 screws holding the windshield and frame to the uprights. I found first screw was completely free in one turn. Not confident. The top right screw just spins. Then the lower right. I wasn't happy and tried a lounger screw and it touched the windshield and cracked the glass edge.
Just how deep are the 10-32 threads in the windshield frame? I'd hope that if you were to use the full good threads in the windshield frame it would be enough. I'm sure that not using the full threads caused the threads to fail to the point where I'm now. I'm retried now and spend too much time watching TV at homes now. We have gone to streaming and I stumbled onto a series Called "Fantom Werks" on MAX. the episodes are several years old now. In one episode they were to install a convertible top on a 1924 Morgan. They used" lift dot" fasteners on the f of the windshield frame. The windshield was a flat piece. They went to grind small notches for the "lift dot" post to screw into. Turns out because it was flat piece of glass, it turned out to be tempered glass and shattered wright off the bat. They were surprised that it was not laminated safety glass. I missed the part seen, but they ended with another windshield glass mounted with the convertible top, Is that even an option? I'm talking about grinding notches in to laminated windshield. No lift dot fasteners.

[krausewich]

You can grind notches with a diamond grit bit and water to keep it cool. There is always risk...

[Michael C Henry]

I'm more likely to grind notches in the side edges. I believe the glass has been ground edges where the glass was ground after the windshield glass laminated. I have watched the guy in the glass shop at work (years ago) make replacement window glass for flat side windows. He was using a belt sander with liquid coolant running. Like I said I missed the scene where they made another windshield after the tempered glass exploded, I'm intending a shallower notch than they were making in the program for a 1924 Morgan. I do not know enough. I did see another seen where they were breaking the flat windshields when trying to cut notches in the lower corners and ended using a grinding tool with lubricant. They were trying to make 3/4" by 3/4" notches for something. Again, more drastic than what I propose. I asked whoever responded at Shell Valley web site, and they said the windshield side frames only offered about 3/32 thickness for threads. That at best is three threads for 10-32 screw. I'm hopping for more.