New look for old Unique

Rich · #1 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 10:25 AM

Last week I finally decided the splitter in the snout had to go (see first picture). I went out to the garage fully expecting to fire up the air saw and cut the thing out of the car, but when I looked closely I noticed hairline cracks in the paint on both ends. Four well placed closed fist blows later the splitter was out. A little filing and sanding and the only trace that it ever existed was the bare fiberglass on each side. The old corroded sheet metal that lined the snout, but only half way up, also came out.

On Saturday, Zderf and I delved into shaping and bending aluminum into unnatural shapes. It turned out pretty nice, if I do say so, and changed the whole look of the car (see other pictures and ignore rock chips and temporary paint touch-up job).

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...t=1&thecat=500

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...t=1&thecat=500

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...t=1&thecat=500

Rich

RallySnake · #2 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 01:36 PM

Rich,

I have wondered about the purpose of the splitter. I suppose the idea is to distribute the air over the radiator for better cooling. I have heard that it provides some downforce also, but I cannot understand how that could be possible.

Do you feel any change in engine temperature or downforce while driving the car now? Very nice blue you got there.

Paul

rdorman · #3 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 01:44 PM

I always thought the splitter was an aerodynamic aid. Lets say it was 80 square inches and created a pressure difference of one PSI at 80 mph then that would negate the lift numbers I have seen for cobras (80lbs lift at 80MPH). Not real scientific I know.

Rich, you still have the MG front? I think we talked about this at one time or another.

Rich · #4 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 02:14 PM

Paul, I haven't had a chance to drive the car without the splitter yet. I kind of doubt I'll notice a difference at highway speeds anyway. I remember hearing once that a 911 Turbo rear spoiler doesn't have any effect on the car until about 80mph, and that's got 10 times the surface area of the Cobra splitter. I'll be interrested to see if there's a temperature difference. Another thing I did was remove the 2 useless little pusher fans which did little more than block off a portion of the radiator.

Rick, yeah, still got the MGB front end and I'm still threatening to replace the bushings. Have you done that?

Rich

rdorman · #5 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 02:22 PM

I will replace the bushings here shortly. I am going to slot the cross member where the lower control arm bolts to it to get some camber adjustment and intend to do the bushings then. I got fed up trying to find a rotor to fit the car so I am adapting a Wilwood brake set to the front. I will be posting once that is done for those of us with MG spindles.

I have a list a MILE long!!!!!!!!!

RallySnake · #6 (**permalink**) 01-22-2003, 11:18 AM

Rich,

I've been running the polyurethane bushings top and bottom on my MGB front end for three years now. I was warned that the suspension would be much stiffer. I think it is but it is but it's not noticable. The steering is so much more accurate now, much better for autocross courses. I also gutted the lever type shocks and installed grease nipples in the shafts to keep them lubricated. I use Corvette rear KYB shocks (with eyelets top and bottom) and fabricated mounts.

Rdorman,

The rotors I bought last time were from a 1970 Monte Carlo. I understand the the Camaro or Firebird rotors from that period will work, too. There are two tricks. The first is to find the rotors with the outer projection from the flat wheel mounting surface that is 3/4". You do not want the ones with the projection more than one inch. The second trick is to have a machine shop mill the outer bearing surface 1/4 inch deeper. That should allow the outer bearing to slide 1/4 inch farther in than it normally does. Then it will fit the MG spindles perfectly with stock Chevy bearings.

Moss motors sells lower a-arms that are slightly longer that stock to give a little negative camber. I haven't tried these but if I were autocrossing more I might. I don't think I would slot the mounting holes though. Maybe it's all the rough pavement I run over on rallies, but those bolts used to come loose often. Now they're grade 8 and loctited with lock washers and locknuts. No more problem!

I hope that helps,
Paul

rdorman · #7 (**permalink**) 01-22-2003, 11:39 AM

Heh Rallysnake. I to am using tube shocks on the front, but all I did to the lever shock was take the springs and washers off the valve and reinsert it. Do I need to do more? I am using the front shock from a 1/2 ton Chevy pickup, 70-82. To stiff for most days, going to get some adjustables.

I must of tried every monte carlo and GM rotor know to man. None would work. I could have machined the shoulder the locates the out bearing race but the rotors I looked at did not have enough meat to do so. So I am have the Wilwood route. I will post what has to be done when I am complete.

Hey guys. I will have a set of Girling 4 pot calipers with a set of EBC green stuff pads left when I am done. Bolt right to the MG spindle. The calipers are $900.00 new and the pads $100. Make you one heck of a deal on them if you are interested.

Thanks

Rick