Two different motor mounts?

[wakeen19]

Ok my rear axle issue is solved. Now, I am trying to mount the motor and I can't get it to work with the mounts I bought. I bought the "short style" from mustangs unlimited and the drivers side lines up fine but I am about 1 1/2" away from the frame on the other side.

I did a search and someone said to use the "tall mounts". Will this solve my issue? Will the tall mounts make up the fairly large distance to the frame?

I was also looking at the Ron Morris adjustable mounts, they are consierably more money but it might be worth it for less headache.

One final question. Will this mount work with a t5 transmission?
Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories

Thanks in advance

[Clois Harlan]

Yes, the transmission mount will work and so should the engine motor mounts. can you post a picture of your motor mount to frame problem?

Clois Harlan

[PNJSNAK]

Wakeen 19
Did you mount the motor mounting brackets supplied by A&C to the frame?
If so, how did you know where to put them?
I used the motor, motor mounts and the frame motor mounts to position the motor on the frame.
I needed spacers between the frame mounts and the frame.
Also, I think my motor is 1/2" offset to the passenger side.
If I remember one spacer was thicker than the other.
Jim

[wakeen19]

I used the supplied frame mounts and the engine mounts from mustangs unlimited. I measured 22 1/2" from the top crossmember back to in between the top middle two header pipes on the block.

If I split the difference between the frame rails, I am still about 3/4" away from the frame to the A and C mounting bracket.

[PNJSNAK]

What engine are you using. I have a 351W and I am using the OEM replacement standard motor mounts you could get from Advance Auto or the others.
I just went to look at my engine mounts. On the driver side I have the mount supplied by A & C bolted right to the frame member. On the passenger side I have a 1/4" spacer between the motor mount and the frame member.
Hope this helps.
Jim

[PNJSNAK]

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ProdImages/FM12.jpg

Is this what you bought because this looks just like what I have.
Jim

[PNJSNAK]

Okay, After searching the Forum I knew this has been discussed before.
Here is a link to a Thread a few years back.

Antique and collectible guy needs motor mounts

Good Luck.

[wakeen19]

I saw that thread. I was confused because the taller ones say that they are for a convertible. I just ordered the taller ones. Even with those, I will still need to shim the passenger side right? Thanks for your help.

[wakeen19]

This is the driver's side against the frame



This is the passenger's side, which is about 1.5" away from the frame. Will the taller mounts make up this space?

[PNJSNAK]

Okay, there is something wrong that you are 1.5" away from the passenger side.
Are you sure you have the right frame mounts for your engine size?
I would check with A&C, don't ask Sonny ask Joe T.
Send these pictures to him.

[Jac Mac]

Hi, It would appear that you have purchased early Fairlane mounts, the difference is in the two lugs that the long bolt goes thru, on your current ones the lugs/holes are nearest the oil pan, on the later/wider/higher mounts these lugs are reversed so that they are further away from the oil pan ( imagine you could 'unbond' that lower portion of the mount & turn it 180°.). The mount I describe is very common & fitted to most small block V8's from mid 1960's thru 1970 in mustangs etc. With the 'new' outboard position of that long thru bolt on both sides I think your mount brackets should line up much better.

Also the frame bracket that the mount bolts to in your pics requires a flat pad for that lower part of the mount to sit on & take the engine weight, the thru bolt should not carry any weight at all, the pad is reqd to prevent the mount twisting under engine torque, mount rubber bonding failure will occur early if the flat pad is not added/welded to the frame bracket. Hope that description is clear, dont have a camera at this time to take a pic of mounts for clarity.

I should also have mentioned that if you have a post 66 6 bolt 289, 302, 351w or 351 c that the same mounts will fit all those engine blocks, they all have the same mount boss positions cast onto the blocks. Any different mounts that the shops might sell you are to suit different engine bay configuations relevant to the car in question- not the engine block.

[Clois Harlan]

Don't give up Wakeen we will get you there. Are you running a 351 engine? does your frame rails measure 24" apart measured from the inside rail?

By the Jac Mac is correct about using a flat pad for your motor mounts to sit on. You may be able make one from a piece of 1/4" x 2" angle iron and just bolt it into place if you don't have access to a welder (assuming you are not compromising the frame rails with additional holes).

[rcobrakit67]

I had the same problem. Tried shims. After I mount the body I am probably going to make my own mount brackets to the frame. The mounts have a lot of stress on them now.

[Rick Parker]

Are the dimensions for the mounts on the frame the same for 351 & 302???

[saltshaker]

Call Joe, he more then anyone can help you with this...he's in around 7:00am
By the way, what happened to the frame mounts that he supplies?
Jon

[Clois Harlan]

Wakeen,

I was thinking about your situation last night and I am assuming you already have your headers and side pipes. If so you will need to use whatever motor mounts your manufacturer had provided otherwise you will have some alighnment issues when you are installing your side pipes. Another thing I noticed in your picture is that you may have to use an remote oil filter because it appears that you may be contacting your frame rails if you don't. How about a bigger picture of the whole engine bay when you get a chance?

Clois Harlan

[wakeen19]

When I ordered the kit they asked what engine I was using and they sent me those frame mounts. I have a 289 and a T5. I ordered the taller engine mounts so I will see what is going on when I test fit. Hopefully they will work better.
I'm not sure about the placement of the flat pad, where do I weld the angle iron. I should probably do that now right?
Thanks again for everyone's help

[Clois Harlan]

Wait until you get your motor mounts then set them in place mounted on the engine and then slide your pads up beneath them once they are bolted to your frame. The constant engine torque will eventually wobble out your holes.

Glad to hear you have chosen to use a 289. Great little high revving engine and it is period correct.

Clois

[Jac Mac]

Pic from post #7 link posted by PJNSNAK/Roscoe earlier in thread. Modded pic shows where the piece of angle needs to go & front view multi coloured sketch shows pad in yellow, block blue, mount black, and mount to chassis adapter in pink. Red dots are bolt heads. Going by this pic with what appear to be correct mounts the 'angle plate' may need to be a bit thicker than 1/4", note that it should have a small upturn lug at pan end to locate mount on pad also.
Since the correct mounts will reposition & hopefully get motor central between chassis rails this should also increase room for oil filter over what you have at moment with wrong mounts. Once you get this sorted you should take the info to the kit supplier, it would be much better for them to supply this piece of hardware at their end and save future kit buyers a lot of problems, along with the correct mount part number. Even if they supplied the piece of angle iron as a loose piece.

[daverascal]

I also had the same problem and made spacers. Hated that so over the Winter I did some snooping and used Prothane Motion Control mounts from Summit racing. Bought motor and tranny mount for $167.97 no need for spacers and much stronger than the old mounts.
Hope this helps,
Dave