Raising Ride Height

[Locohead1]

I just bought a A&C 67 Cobra and having a blast driving it. However, I seem to be bottoming out when I go over mild speed bumps or uneven roads. How can I raise the ride height enough to not bottom out. I'm sure you'll need particulars so please ask any questions and I'll try to find out the answer. Can coil overs be adjusted to raise the height?

Thanks Much

[PNJSNAK]

Yes, stronger springs, spring spacers, the rear mounting of the lower shocks have multiple height positions.
Can you describe what you mean by " bottoming out"?
The solid aluminum 4 link bars on the rear if you have them have a tendency to have the rear end angle up a bit causing it to hit the frame cross member.
At least on mine and a few others.
I put on adjustable bars and tilted the nose of the rear end down a bit, no more hitting the frame crossmember.
Take a few pics of your suspension areas and of the car showing the ride height and you should get many responses.
Also, if you have questions on the MFG car Joe T at A & C he is usually very helpful, as well as the guys in this forum

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Locohead1

I just bought a A&C 67 Cobra and having a blast driving it. However, I seem to be bottoming out when I go over mild speed bumps or uneven roads. How can I raise the ride height enough to not bottom out. I'm sure you'll need particulars so please ask any questions and I'll try to find out the answer. Can coil overs be adjusted to raise the height?

Thanks Much

When you say "bottoming out", do you mean something on the bottom of the car is contacting the road, or that your suspension has reached the end of its travel?

[Antny]

Congrats! a 1967 A&C Cobra? Please post some photos of your car, showing the side view so we can see the tire/body relationship.

[Locohead1]

Thanks for the reply everyone.

I was able to jack the front up today trying to find a way to adjust out a fair amount of front wheel play in the passenger side front wheel. It rocks side to side quite a bit and couldn't figure out how to adjust it to get rid of the play. The car does have power steering if that make a difference.

I did look under the front area of the car to see where it was hitting and did see that the oil pan had quite a bit of deep grooving and was bent in the center of the pan where the drain screw is. I didn't have a chance to check the rear to see if it was hitting back there or on the cross member.

Besides the front wheel play, I also noticed that the coil over spring adjustments on the front were very different. On the passenger side, the adjustment rings were all the way down at the bottom of the threads while the other side was screwed up a good two inches above the bottom of the threads. I have no idea why. Plus, I don't have the wrenches to adjust the ring nuts either.

I'll have to jack up the rear and see what the situation is back there. I'll also try to take the pictures you've asked for but I don't know how to post them on the forum. Please tell me how to do that.

These problems are going to keep me up all night thinking about what needs to be done.

Thanks again for your input.

[PNJSNAK]

For posting pictures there are a lot of postings, just do a "search"
That is a lot of difference in coil over threaded nut position
One thing to look at is the mounting of the upper A arm to the frame also
Look at the Chrysler style ball joint where it threads into the A arm.
Mine actually came loose and damaged the threaded are causing the front to feel very "loose".
You can pic up the tool at most auto stores.

[PNJSNAK]

Go to "all cobra talk" forum there a couple threads right away about posting pics

[saltshaker]

You say you are bottoming out...do you have a pan hard bar? If yes you need to remove that. Next is the front of the pinion hitting the cross member above it?
If it is the I would measure your wheel base if it is shorter then 90" it will hit. Do you have adjustable lower control arms?
Jon

[PNJSNAK]

Lockhead1;
What did you find?
Were you able to post pics of your suspension or the areas were you were "bottoming out".
I solved my problems to my satisfaction, just getting older and harder to get out of the cobra.
My ride is sorted, just not sure of how long to keep it.
Don't get me wrong, it is still the most fun with my clothes still on!!!
If someone gives me 35k right now, she's gone!
But I am not advertising that.
Just yet!
Jim

[MKS427]

Originally Posted by saltshaker

You say you are bottoming out...do you have a pan hard bar? If yes you need to remove that. Next is the front of the pinion hitting the cross member above it?
If it is the I would measure your wheel base if it is shorter then 90" it will hit. Do you have adjustable lower control arms?
Jon

If you have a pan hard bar, DO NOT remove it. Major damage and or severe injury could occur. It is an essential part of the suspension that keeps the rear axle centered under the car.

[MKS427]

If your oil pan is "rubbing" speed bumps. I would recommend a more suitable oil pan vs raising the car. My bell housing "rubs" speed bumps, but it is 3/4" lower than the oil pan.
If you have a 302 or 351 based engine, you might want to check with Canton or Levy Racing.

[saltshaker]

A&C Cobra's have a triangulated 4 link and the pan hard bar restricts the movement of the rear. You do not need it nor does it help your car. If you had a 3 link or a parallel 4 link you would need it to keep the diff centered.
Jon

[Locohead1]

Sorry guys for not getting back sooner. I tried reading the instructions on how to post pictures but still couldn't get it to work. If someone can tell me how to post in some language that me, as a 4 year old, can understand. It's very difficult to get under the car since it's so low, even when I jack it up.

I do want to raise the rear up so should I move the coil over brackets up one hole. What's the best way to accomplish this?

Thanks for your help.

[PNJSNAK]

You can do that or adjust the threaded rings on the shocks

[saltshaker]

I use a short piece of 4x4 on top of a floor jack and raise the body from the cross member behind the gas tank.... put jack stands under the axles ... this will work... remember when you raise the body you increase the angle of the lower control arms....
jon

[Locohead1]

Thanks all. I do have a bunch of questions and observations below so please feel free to reply to each.

I did jack up the car in the rear and removed the coil over shocks. I think they're both bad cause I can compress and uncompress the shocks with very little effort. Does this mean they have to be replaced? What should I replace them with....specifically?

I did adjust the threaded rings to the top on both shocks but it was odd because before I adjusted them, one shock was adjusted about mid way (drivers side) on the thread while the other shock (passenger side) was adjusted close to the top of the thread. Any idea why someone would do this?

I also noticed that when I jack up both sides in the rear at the same height, the top of the springs are below the large spring retainer at the top of the shock. This means I have to be careful when I lower the car to make sure the springs are properly seated at the top.

And one more thing. On the bottom of the shock itself, there is a bolt and nut that go through the shock itself. Not the bolt that attaches the shock to the bracket, but above it on the base thru the shock. What does this bolt do?

Wish I knew how to post a picture.

Also, there is a pan hard bar that doesn't sit tight in the brackets. The bar can easily be twisted within the brackets at each end. Shouldn't the bar be tight inside of the brackets?

I don't know much, I guess. I thought I was an OK "wrencher" but I don't have very much experience with suspensions.

[saltshaker]

You will never have any travel your rear susspenion if you dont remove that pan hard bar! Triangulated 4 link sudpenions do not need one, the upper control arms keep the rear centered. The pan hard bar binds it up....
Jon

[PNJSNAK]

Loco
- call Joe T at A and C about shocks
- sometimes you adjust rings differently to get same height of body from side to side
Remember these are fiberglass bodies they are not perfect
- yes the springs will leave their home in the upper spring housing be careful
- not sure what the bolt is for mine have it also
Ask Joe T
- there should be rotational movement in the panard bar because the ends should
be brim joints

Last but not least
Salt shaker says remove the panard bar BUT you need to answer the question
are your four real links aluminum bars or are they adjustable bars
with brim joints at each end
If aluminum bars remove panard bar not necessary
If adjustable bars leave it
If it was installed properly it will work
Mine does
Jim

[PNJSNAK]

I hate spell check
Should be Heim joints not brim
Also it should be rear links not real links
Jim