Lifter adjust

double ugly · #1 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 08:44 AM

Troy at Modern Auto closed shop. Does anyone know someone who can adjust solid lifters on an FE?

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by double ugly

Troy at Modern Auto closed shop. Does anyone know someone who can adjust solid lifters on an FE?

You know, it is ridiculously easy to do. And if you adjust them cold, like most of us do, you can take your time, double check the lash, triple check the lash, get a sandwich, get a drink, go back and adjust the next valve, scream at the kids to turn SpongeBob down, walk the dog, go back and adjust the next valve, take a nap, go back and adjust the next valve, and it will all work just fine....

blykins · #3 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:04 AM

Most of us?

patrickt · #4 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

Most of us?

There are a couple of guys on here who still adjust them hot, running, and with an oil shower.

I think Chas may have been one of them....

blykins · #5 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:07 AM

I run them hot, not with an oil shower. You need to check them hot anyway to make sure they end up where they need to end up, so might as well run them hot.

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

I run them hot, not with an oil shower. You need to check them hot anyway to make sure they end up where they need to end up, so might as well run them hot.

<sigh> But once you know what your particular cold lash will be that equates to the proper hot lash (you know, depending on all iron, aluminum heads, or all aluminum), on your particular car, then there's really no reason not to take your time and work on a cold head. My cold numbers are a very consistent ,005 from my hot ones -- across them all. And a couple of thousands I don't think makes much of a difference anyway, at least not on my old school, POS, 50 year old technology SFT cam.

Bob Broberg SPF667 460BB · #7 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:15 AM

Here is some help: COMP Cams How to Set a Valve Lash - YouTube
and How to Adjust the Solid Lifter Valve Lash on a Big Block Ford | eHow
and if you just don't want to do it yourself, Try Jeff Classic at Cobras N Vettes Cobras N Vettes 602-402-8504
or Charlie Sullens at Hot Rods by Dean INTRO - Hot Rods by Dean

AZ Bob

blykins · #8 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:18 AM

If you run them the first time, they need to be checked hot. If you're just verifying lash, get the engine hot, pop the valve covers, get a remote starter switch a feeler gauge and take 30 seconds to check them. They don't change every weekend as people think, and you're basically just checking to make sure nothing has slipped or broke.

I think people make too much of a deal of checking lash. I have to check lash/preload on every engine on the dyno, and I can run through it in about 2 minutes.

Bob Broberg SPF667 460BB · #9 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:20 AM

Jeff Classic at Cobras N Vettes 602-402-8504
or Charlie Sullens at INTRO - Hot Rods by Dean
or just do it yourself. Here's a video: COMP Cams How to Set a Valve Lash - YouTube

AZ Bob

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

If you run them the first time, they need to be checked hot. If you're just verifying lash, get the engine hot, pop the valve covers, get a remote starter switch a feeler gauge and take 30 seconds to check them. They don't change every weekend as people think, and you're basically just checking to make sure nothing has slipped or broke.

I think people make too much of a deal of checking lash. I have to check lash/preload on every engine on the dyno, and I can run through it in about 2 minutes.

But he has obviously never done it before. It would be absolutely, 100%, impossible for him to get all 16 valves done before they cooled off. You know that.

The first time he'll just be concentrating on making sure he's doing EO/IC properly and not getting it backwards. And I say he should use a ratchet wrench on the crank bolt with his floor jack handle on it -- using the bump starter 50 times is going to chip a tooth.

blykins · #11 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 11:03 AM

He needs to come and hang out with me for a week, then he would realize that it's not as overly complicated as what some make it out to be. He's going to need to check it hot regardless. Lash is given in hot spec on a cam card. If he's never done it before, then he's not going to know how the cold/hot lash differs on his engine. Pointless.

We use a remote starter button all the time. No chipped teeth yet.

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 11:56 AM

Do you remember this thread Valve cover gasket alternatives to cork and the cool tool I bought to play with my lash?

Danr55 · #13 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 01:21 PM

Yeah. Jeff Classic at Cobras and Vetted or Charlie Sullens at Hotrods by Dean.

vector1 · #14 (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 01:55 PM

adjust a 1 hot exhaust and 1 hot intake, let cool, check and adjust the rest to the cold setting.

mikiec · #15 (**permalink**) 08-14-2013, 06:59 AM

This why I run hydraulic roller lifters. Mo muss no fuss.

CHANMADD · #16 (**permalink**) 08-14-2013, 09:05 AM

What's the point of spending ..thousands... on the engine components and then not getting the valve lash right..........every thou...of gap at the valve stem reduces valve lift..........also Patrick ...that big bar onvthe crank nose is not going to be such a good idea when that center bolt strips the threads in the crank nose..............its happened to me..........if youre going to do it that way ..take the plugs out firsts so the motor turns easy......