Bruce’s trail of repairs.

Bruce.huling · #1 (**permalink**) 06-13-2021, 08:47 PM

Well, I have narrowed down the leaks, now sizable at 15 psi test to the front of the intake manifold. Waiting for gasket set to arrive. Also replaced rubber washer under exhaust hangar with proper isolation mount. Also welded crack in header and installed new exhaust gaskets. Hoping to be on road soon.
If any of you have prior experience on the 351w pulling that intake and resealing, my garage is ac and has a fridge full of beer.

Bruce.huling · #2 (**permalink**) 06-22-2021, 09:18 AM

All good. Leak repaired. Also changed shocks. Much better ride now! Header crack looks good so far. One hour drive after 5 heat cycles. Everything staying tight to torque specs. Ready to go.

KarlzEE Bebout · #3 (**permalink**) 06-22-2021, 09:53 AM

Never put your tools away. There's ALWAYS something.

Bruce.huling · #4 (**permalink**) 06-22-2021, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarlzEE Bebout

Never put your tools away. There's ALWAYS something.

Yes indeed Karl. I found several other things while under the car I corrected to my satisfaction. Still lots of small things to go. The wiring in this car is a bit dodgy. Correcting those as I go. Replacing the front shocks gave a huge improvement in ride. Much welcomed.

twobjshelbys · #5 (**permalink**) 06-22-2021, 11:56 AM

Cobras are a tinkered dream. Or nightmare. Depending on which side of the fence you sit. Just wait until your nuts and bolts start mating and dropping their babies on the garage floor

Bruce.huling · #6 (**permalink**) 06-22-2021, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Cobras are a tinkered dream. Or nightmare. Depending on which side of the fence you sit. Just wait until you nets and bolts start mating and dropping their babies on the garage floor

Well, you are spot on. I started replacing nuts with self retaining nuts, and true to my Hd roots putting various loctite products on everything. Hate stuff falling off.

incoming · #7 (**permalink**) 06-23-2021, 05:15 PM

I torque everything like it's a nuclear weapon and lock everything like it's a Shovelhead.

Bruce.huling · #8 (**permalink**) 08-08-2021, 05:44 PM

Great weekend up around Prescott. Driver side motor mount bolt heads ripped off hitting big bump in town. The panman fixed me right up. Unbelievable! Right side exhaust flange bolts loosened on new gasket, so rightened those back up too. While my car was up on the lift I can see all sorts of stuff to correct. Meanwhile, absolutely sublime drive down the mountain today. Really what my head needed. Ordered a set of new motor mounts and will put those in soon. Also found the chain modification on my car is common. Good times!

hauss · #9 (**permalink**) 08-09-2021, 10:10 AM

Don"t forget drive line and axles had u joints nuts get loose on mine.Saw your free beer advertisement so I could not resist commenting on your post,too bad you live so far away.

KarlzEE Bebout · #10 (**permalink**) 08-09-2021, 01:17 PM

Hauss..."Stuck in Lodi Again"?

CCR

Bruce.huling · #11 (**permalink**) 08-27-2021, 09:38 AM

Wonderful Mr pan man, what torque would you recommend on those two grade 5 bolts you miraculously installed? I am going to replace with grade 8’s like the other side (passenger). I checked the rotation limiting chain it is about a 1/4 slack, which seems acceptable from cruising the internet. I am so thankful for your help that weekend. You saved my first weekend off in months and I had a great time. Did you spot the drool on you pan head? That was a beauty. Back to recommended torque? Anyone?

KarlzEE Bebout · #12 (**permalink**) 08-27-2021, 01:03 PM

Bruce....two snaps of your elbow should do just fine with a 3/8" drive. Steve put never-seize on the bolts, thinking he'd be kind to the next time they broke. Me? I'd put a little medium strength lock-Tite. I hate things coming loose.

Bruce.huling · #13 (**permalink**) 08-31-2021, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarlzEE Bebout

Bruce....two snaps of your elbow should do just fine with a 3/8" drive. Steve put never-seize on the bolts, thinking he'd be kind to the next time they broke. Me? I'd put a little medium strength lock-Tite. I hate things coming loose.

I removed one of the grade 5 bolts out easily to take over to copper state to buy a grade 8 replacement. I’m thinking that I will put some medium strength locative when I put it back in. It’s hard for me to get under the car frequently to check if it is loosening. Thinking to put moderate torque on them. Looking for a real number to use. 33 foot pounds is what some of the look ups suggest.

KarlzEE Bebout · #14 (**permalink**) 08-31-2021, 11:38 AM

Bruce, I'd give the bolt holes a hefty shot of brake cleaner to wash out the neverseize. Maybe put a soaked rag on a screw driver to help clean out the hole. I would.

Also make sure the bolts are not bottoming out.

Bruce.huling · #15 (**permalink**) 08-31-2021, 07:57 PM

New grade 8s into clean holes, no bottoming. Medium thread locker. Torqued to 35 pounds per online chart. Should be good for awhile. Will give her several spins and recheck. I also inspected mounts themselves and no apparent cracks or hardness. Will leave those in place for now. Next on my agenda is to replace rear shocks as they are of questionable vintage, and would like the action improvement I got upon replacement of the front set with AF1 from Gordon levy.

Bruce.huling · #16 (**permalink**) 09-06-2021, 09:35 AM

I need to get to Gordon levy’s place for some experienced eyes. I was checking the bolt upgrade and all remained tight. I look at the the header position gap to body on the driver side and dang, it looks like the side pipe is low on that side. I use a ruler at the header flange to see if the header flange is lower on that side and I don’t see a difference to passenger side, yet the pipe ground clearance is definitely about an 1.5” lower. What the heck? I can not see visible bend or collapse of the bracket (my first thought) so I’m not sure what is bent or pronged. Car runs great though. Figures. I’m thinking somehow that d/s bracket is bent down allowing the motor to tilt enough that you can see it out at the end of the pipes exiting the body. Thoughts?

MKS427 · #17 (**permalink**) 09-06-2021, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce.huling

I need to get to Gordon levy’s place for some experienced eyes. I was checking the bolt upgrade and all remained tight. I look at the the header position gap to body on the driver side and dang, it looks like the side pipe is low on that side. I use a ruler at the header flange to see if the header flange is lower on that side and I don’t see a difference to passenger side, yet the pipe ground clearance is definitely about an 1.5” lower. What the heck? I can not see visible bend or collapse of the bracket (my first thought) so I’m not sure what is bent or pronged. Car runs great though. Figures. I’m thinking somehow that d/s bracket is bent down allowing the motor to tilt enough that you can see it out at the end of the pipes exiting the body. Thoughts?

Put car on flat level ground. Measure frame to floor all four corners. Once verified level (rake front to back okay), place a level across the valve covers.

Bruce.huling · #18 (**permalink**) 09-07-2021, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce.huling

I need to get to Gordon levy’s place for some experienced eyes. I was checking the bolt upgrade and all remained tight. I look at the the header position gap to body on the driver side and dang, it looks like the side pipe is low on that side. I use a ruler at the header flange to see if the header flange is lower on that side and I don’t see a difference to passenger side, yet the pipe ground clearance is definitely about an 1.5” lower. What the heck? I can not see visible bend or collapse of the bracket (my first thought) so I’m not sure what is bent or pronged. Car runs great though. Figures. I’m thinking somehow that d/s bracket is bent down allowing the motor to tilt enough that you can see it out at the end of the pipes exiting the body. Thoughts?

So go thru my pictures from po and as received and it looks like it has always been low on the ds. Ha. So I look on the ps and it looks like a 1/4 inch spacer added to mount to raise ps side up higher. This might explain why it looks like the alternator hit the frame at some time in the past, someone said… I can fix that with a shim! Never bothered to level it out with one on the ds. I will make one up and give it a try. I suspect the motor mount plates were for a different height motor originally and were close enuf when built. Given it had 27,000 miles when I purchased her, not sure how this escaped the normal fix it routine. My wife says it’s because I am OC about cars.