Taller Inline Radiator Filler

[Jethrow]

Hi everyone. Once again looking for some more help. What I am chasing is a tall inline radiator filler.

Something like this one


but taller.

Here is a sketch I did of what I want.


This would be ideal for the LS motors as it ensures a nice high fill point and gives a spot for the steam tubes to be plumbed to.

So anyone ever bought anything like this? If yes, please let me know where you found it as so far I am having no luck.

Thx

[leroy17]

I have a csr one which I tapped an inlet below the rad cap for the steam vent. Whilst not a ton of room still enough to burb the air out and is highest point.

May be pic in my gallery or I will get one later and put it on.

I didnt use a barb as I had all an fittings. For memory I used a 1/8 to -6 adaptor and then a 45degree fitting.

http://www.csr-performance.com/shop/...-to-1.5-inches

[muzzza]

Probably looking at a custom fabrication job.......Not sure how far down the track you are with your cooling system, but steam venting / bleeds are always better routed to a surge / header tank. This web page may be worth looking at. It has schematics that work well on LS cooling systems, with well reasoned explanations.

Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.

[Jethrow]

Thx guys. Actually as I have it plumbed now it is very similar to what you have Leroy, but my issue is that the top point on the radiator header tanks is just a bit higher than the steam tubes and lower than the cap so I have a small air-pocket there.

The taller cap would help me fill right to the top.

And I had already been looking at that site muzza, it is a good one. I did consider the expansion tank but my main issue is a place to actually put it! And unless I was gunna plumb thru the heater circuit like they say, and instead just run it inline with the top hose (or as a bleed from the top hose) then really it seems to offer no more than a taller rad filler neck.

More thinking required for me!

But thx again.

[vector1]

i've never seen that type fitting. i found better conditions plumbing the fill on the suction side, and running a tube from the pump outlet to the top of the radiator without any interruption.

[Zedn]

Just cut the filler off and weld in a section of alloy tube. If you don't have an ac welder a shop would probably do it pretty cheap if you get it all ready.

I haven't seen one with an extension.

[leroy17]

I would say that PWR could mod one no worries.... or as above... cut and insert tube.

Muzzza, that link was a great read with tons of info, thanks.

[muzzza]

Inline fillers are just that......they are only work with a good header tank. If you don't have the header tank ( that will absorb expansion / contraction of coolant ) the inline filter will continuously burp out steam and coolant.......loosing a little with each cycle. Header tank with as many steam bleeds as required is the way to go.

[Andrew429]

Hi Tim,

A custom fab unit might be the way to go.
I have some tubing left over from building my header tank, I'll check the sizes.
A T-section with a cap welded on top should fit the bill.
The billet fillers like this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-80-092
are sturdier than the thinner pressed units.

[Aussie Mike]

Here's my take on it. I welded a filler cap direct to the water pump. There's a flat section at the top that was easy to machine out and press the new neck into. Makes for a neat installation.

Admitedly I do need to reweld it as I've got a pinhole leak.

[Jethrow]

Looks good Mike.

The taller inline filler neck design would function identical to what you have I think, tho your setup does look great.

[vector1]

here's what i did, plumbed the pressure side direct and hooked the header tank into the suction side, the top line goes to the top of the radiator as an air bleed, the lower line goes into the coolant tube for fill. i don't lose any coolant or pressure anymore when the engine gets hot.

[stephen low]

I don't know how the Chubby's are set up with the outlet but perhaps you could do a modification like the one made to a standard Windsor outlet neck I am now using.



Can't remember who gave this to me from within the cobra community but it does make the cap the highest point on the motor.

This means it is also rigidly located compared to the in-line type fitting you pictured. I know this as I had a moroso variant in use initially and the assembly would push down on the attaching hoses when trying to refit the radiator cap.

Just went looking and here is a picture of it in-situ now, though I've replaced the overflow barb with dash fittings and braid line to the overflow tank now.




Just a thought.

Cheers

[Jethrow]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I think I am gunna add an expansion tank to help me out. I will add a pic when done.

[muzzza]

Tim, Have a couple of pics of my header tank set-up in my gallery. .........works really well. Moroso header tank feeds into thermostat / heater housing, with another Moroso tank purely as an overflow. I run coolant about 40mm down from top of tank and it has never expelled coolant into the overflow tank. I also run the 63 deg thermostat. Murray

[Jethrow]

Originally Posted by muzzza

Tim, Have a couple of pics of my header tank set-up in my gallery. .........works really well. Moroso header tank feeds into thermostat / heater housing, with another Moroso tank purely as an overflow. I run coolant about 40mm down from top of tank and it has never expelled coolant into the overflow tank. I also run the 63 deg thermostat. Murray

Thanks Murray. Looking at your photos, your install looks really neat. I also like how you added a temp probe in the other heater outlet point. I put mine on the other side of the water pump where there is a blanking plug.

On a different subject how easy is it to fit those valve covers? I have considered getting a set but am unsure on how they fit, especially with what to do with the coil packs. Ideally they will stay in the same point they are now, but I am not sure if those covers fit over the top or not.
Thx

[muzzza]

Tim, They were a bit fiddly to fit. Edelbrock say they fit LS2 but depends on what coils you have. They apparently were designed for the LS1 coils, which are a little smaller. I had to muck about and make some small adapter brackets to get the standard LS2 coils to fit.....worked out OK though. Murray

[Zedn]

Murray, does your thermostat function correctly like that? I thought that coolant needed to flow between both ports for the thermostat to function correctly?

Tim there are a few options for coil covers on eBay. Billet specialties have a really nice set up that replaces the valve covers. I plan to fabricate valve covers that fit over the top. If they work I am going to make some extras to sell for a bit of pocket money.

[muzzza]

Bypass on thermostat ensures thermostat functions fine. I usually open the bypass holes a little, or add another hole. Bypass hole placed to top of thermostat housing also helps with initial purging of air in the system. With radiator shroud and bypass flaps, my cooling system works real sweet ! Murray

[Jethrow]

Originally Posted by Zedn

Tim there are a few options for coil covers on eBay. Billet specialties have a really nice set up that replaces the valve covers. I plan to fabricate valve covers that fit over the top. If they work I am going to make some extras to sell for a bit of pocket money.

I will have a look on fleabay then, but depending on looks/price I might be up for a set of yours. Just please don't write Shelby on them!