Wheel spacers

SydneyChris · #1 (**permalink**) 07-06-2015, 04:05 AM

I have a set of 17" Halibrand replica wheels in 5 stud Ford pattern (9" and 10.5"), which were supposed to be for use on a Daytona Coupe.

The fronts require a 5mm spacer to clear the caliper and the rears apparently use a 25 - 32mm bolt on spacer to get the tyre sufficiently outboard so that its sits close to the guard.

Am advise that wheel spacers of any description are not legal for rego in NSW (not sure whether its the same in other States) AND that as they are a single piece cast wheel the Halibrands are unable to be altered.

Look forward to any advice on this one..

!

Second issue. Am knocking up a small 8 segment LED box for the dash warning lights but cant locate the official library of DIN spec images in order to get a transparency printed..??

Thanks in anticipation..

Chris

Aussie Mike · #2 (**permalink**) 07-06-2015, 05:39 AM

If you are building a set of warning lights don't forget this one:

You are running an LS3 after all.

Cheers

Krait · #3 (**permalink**) 07-06-2015, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SydneyChris

Second issue. Am knocking up a small 8 segment LED box for the dash warning lights but cant locate the official library of DIN spec images in order to get a transparency printed..??

Thanks in anticipation..

Chris

Hi Chris,

Not sure about DIN standards but this site may give you a start, strangely Mike's graphic is absent. This Mazda one isn't as flash but may be useful.

I have a Bright6 setup in my Cobra, works well.

New Vintage have a version as well.

Cheers

427sharpe · #4 (**permalink**) 07-06-2015, 11:15 AM

A shot in the dark here, but what if the spacer were permanently bonded to the wheel?

Beejay · #5 (**permalink**) 07-07-2015, 04:30 AM

Some Porsches run spacers as standard.

I think that if they are designed properly with a spigot you can get them passed, but check with a certified engineer.

I used a bright 6 too on my CR and it worked well.

Cheers,

Ben

Treeve · #6 (**permalink**) 07-07-2015, 07:48 PM

I don't sign off spacers at all. Those which use multiple sets of bolts are normally OK but it depends on offset of wheel vs original offset of hub.

Best practice (although not particularly helpful advice) is to get the right offset wheels from the start.

SydneyChris · #7 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

If you are building a set of warning lights don't forget this one:

You are running an LS3 after all.

Cheers

Is that the same as the ESP light in a car not traveling at light speed..??

SydneyChris · #8 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 01:33 AM

thanks gents,

A 'bonded' spacer would be ok for the front wheel hub, but that still leaves the rears with 32mm to make up.

Had chased New Vintage.. they are knocking up a quote..

Cheers

Chris

SydneyChris · #9 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Treeve

I don't sign off spacers at all. Those which use multiple sets of bolts are normally OK but it depends on offset of wheel vs original offset of hub.

Best practice (although not particularly helpful advice) is to get the right offset wheels from the start.

You'd think a 'complete kit' would included such things..

US standards are different unfortunately..

Gaz64 · #10 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Treeve

I don't sign off spacers at all. Those which use multiple sets of bolts are normally OK but it depends on offset of wheel vs original offset of hub.

Best practice (although not particularly helpful advice) is to get the right offset wheels from the start.

Fully agree on both points.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SydneyChris

thanks gents,

A 'bonded' spacer would be ok for the front wheel hub, but that still leaves the rears with 32mm to make up.

Had chased New Vintage.. they are knocking up a quote..

Cheers

Chris

Chris,

Any form of spacer either requires longer wheel studs, or two sets of studs and nuts per wheel. Both are dangerous, and hence illegal in Australia. Trouble is, they are in use by those that think they can use them legally.

Just like stretched tyres, ride height alterations, etc etc etc.

SydneyChris · #11 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 02:49 AM

thanks Gary,

The whole 'wheels that fit' thing would have been handy..

Cheers

Chris

07cob · #12 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Any form of spacer either requires longer wheel studs, or two sets of studs and nuts per wheel. Both are dangerous, and hence illegal in Australia.

Gary

Without looking at legalities, I can understand the danger in using longer studs but what it is issue with an adapter which bolts to the hub and has studs to bolt the wheel to? Assuming of course that it is made to the same standard as the OEM hub.

Geof.

muzzza · #13 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07cob

Gary

Without looking at legalities, I can understand the danger in using longer studs but what it is issue with an adapter which bolts to the hub and has studs to bolt the wheel to? Assuming of course that it is made to the same standard as the OEM hub.

Geof.

I'm with you Geof. Nissan, Porsche and many other manufacturers have used adapters of sorts for years. If knock off pin drive adapters are OK...then I have no problem at all with appropriately engineered "Quality" hubcentric adapters. We are talking ICV's here and in most cases there are far more important structural issues to be considered. Muz

ps.....Quality does not break.........seen cheap fail many times !!

Gav · #14 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 09:24 PM

I have a set of spacers that I use on my car for track days when I have a set of corvette 18" on to change the pattern on the rear from ford to GM.
They are billet and work very well considering the abuse they are handed.
That being said, they still aren't legal.

SydneyChris · #15 (**permalink**) 07-08-2015, 09:56 PM

I hear that's a common solution for track days, at least..

Given the specs below for the FFR Halibrand wheels

Wheel Set Part Number: 14865
Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 17"x 9"
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 17"x 10.5"
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.00" (24mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 6.7" (27mm Offset)
Wheel Lug Pattern: Ford style 5 lug x 4.5" bolt circle

And:

1. The fronts need a 5mm spacer to clear the calipers by around 2mm only

2. The rears clear the caliper but need to be between 25 - 32mm further outboard to sit appropriately under the wheel arch.

What are the wheel specs I should be targeting. How much clearance is an appropriate amount for the front calipers, and lastly.. any recommended suppliers in Aus.. ???

With thanks

Chris

SydneyChris · #16 (**permalink**) 07-16-2015, 01:13 AM

May have found a solution with the clearance for the front calipers.

Seems I may have a narrower and incorrect set of top hats that are 10mm shy of the ones supplied with the Willwood superlit kits to suit the 1994 - 2004 mustang spindles.

Will look forward to the update from the States once they have had brekkie..

Cheers

Chris

SydneyChris · #17 (**permalink**) 07-23-2015, 09:59 PM

Scratch that one.. !

Am awaiting the Engineer to confirm if a milled section of billet Aluminum, drilled and tapped to the existing top hat will be acceptable.

Also, ordered a warning / indicator lights panel from New Vintage..

they were great to deal with..

Will update when I have an answer.. !

Cheers

Chris

Post script... the Engineer confirmed the proposed solution with a fixed top hat component as acceptable..