Pace 427 Advice and pics needed of Auto trans Installation

14adrnln · #1 (**permalink**) 04-23-2017, 10:54 PM

If anyone out there has any pics and info about installing a GM (VF commodore) 6speed Auto coupled to an LSA into a Pace 427 the I'd love to see them and hear what you have to say before we try and start shoehorning the drive train into the car. My guess is that the tunnel is a little undersized...Is this correct? How much roughly?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Scott

renovationinnov · #2 (**permalink**) 04-24-2017, 05:25 PM

14adrnin
emailed dean who is doing exactly the same as you [6speed auto &ls]
as he is on a road trip for a couple of weeks // he should be able to help
rob

Gav · #3 (**permalink**) 04-25-2017, 02:00 AM

What converter are you planning to use?
I had an earlier 4 speed in my old car and given its lower weight a stock converter will not work well.
Have a chat to any of the aftermarket converter builders about your application.
Dominator, TCE or one of the many others will be able to help.
I ran the trans cooler in place of the oil cooler in the front of the car, there was no need for a thermostat or anything like that.
TCI in the states can supply a stand alone PCM for the trans if you want to go that way too, their software is very easy to play with.

14adrnln · #4 (**permalink**) 04-25-2017, 08:57 PM

Thanks for the info Gav.
I was just planning on using the standard converter and seeing how it goes. Definitely a good point to look at changing it though.
The car is in the hands of a Hot rod builder at present who is fitting the drive train so I'll pass all the relevant info onto him.
Cheers
Scott

xb-60 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-25-2017, 10:52 PM

Dean will chime in sometime Scott. In the meantime - if I recall correctly - AP modified his trans. tunnel at the factory to suit his auto. trans.

Cheers,
Glen

14adrnln · #6 (**permalink**) 04-26-2017, 12:13 AM

Just got some pics from Dean.
Cheers
Scott

Gav · #7 (**permalink**) 04-26-2017, 01:09 AM

For the sake of $1000 or so bucks I'd put a new converter in it from the get go.
Learn from my mistakes Grasshopper...

Aussie Mike · #8 (**permalink**) 04-26-2017, 01:14 AM

Pulling the motor and box later to change converters will be a pain in the arse. Gav is right, fit the correct one now.

Cheers

albanycobra · #9 (**permalink**) 04-26-2017, 04:32 AM

Scott Gav is a good Man to talk to about LS installs....for the record I don't hold that against him....ba ha haaaa..

deano59 · #10 (**permalink**) 04-26-2017, 04:46 AM

What size stall did you endup using gav..?will beback in adelaide in a day or so all going well scott am in bendigo atm

Gav · #11 (**permalink**) 04-26-2017, 05:39 AM

I had a 2800 RPM stall in mine.
Aftermarket converters retain the electronic lock up too so you don't loose out on economy on a trip.

14adrnln · #12 (**permalink**) 04-27-2017, 04:32 AM

What would the car be like with the Standard 6 speed auto stall converter?
I don't really understand Stall converters so please feel free to explain.
Cheers
Scott

Gav · #13 (**permalink**) 04-27-2017, 06:06 AM

A torque converter is designed to allow a certain amount of slip, that design is based on the weight of the car, engine size, cam specs, anticipated use, etc etc
Any engine has a minimum rpm where it begins to make power efficiently, so a torque converter will be designed to allow the engine to slip or flare up to this minimum rpm, thus allowing it to immediately operate in its power range.
So...a converter designed for a commodore will be 'tighter' than one designed for a 1100kg cobra because its a heavier car needing more torque to get it moving. Using that converter in your cobra will result in it being quite sluggish off the line (if an LSA could be called sluggish) fitting an aftermarket converter will just allow it to operate as it should.
A hi stall is a term for a looser converter, a big cam makes power at a higher rev range so a high stall allows the engine to flare up to a point where the engine is starting to make its best power.
Now to dispense a common misconception, a small high stall like 2800rpm won't make your car undrivable, driving around normally you won't pick it's there, once you mash the throttle it will allow the engine to flash up and away it will go, but it will be very predictable and not at all dangerous.
Trust me, you will be VERY glad you fitted one.

14adrnln · #14 (**permalink**) 04-27-2017, 06:21 AM

Thanks for the explanation Gav. Sounds like I better seriously look into it.
Cheers
Scott

Gav · #15 (**permalink**) 04-27-2017, 06:35 AM

Ring any of the converter guys, they will ask for your engine specs, diff ratio and car weight then will be able to design exactly what you need.

14adrnln · #16 (**permalink**) 05-05-2017, 06:56 AM

I contacted the guys from Autoflite about the Dominator and gave them all my specs and they suggested that I just use the standard converter. Apparently it only needs changing if you upgrade the cam shaft. Its all a learning experience.

Gav · #17 (**permalink**) 05-05-2017, 07:12 AM

I'm surprised, but they would know.

14adrnln · #18 (**permalink**) 05-06-2017, 02:32 AM

Saves me another $1k so I'm not really complaining. I am also not tracking the car at all as it's just a cafe cruiser so I don't really need to squeeze every last bit of performance out of it. As long as we can get lockup at highway cruising speeds.
Thanks again for all the advice.
Cheers
Scott