This is a re post from Norcal in case Bacc doesn't check that site. I'm a BACC member as well.
I removed the top and bottom control arms on the right rear of the car recently looking for a nasty noise, lubed everything regardless if it needed it or not, and the noise seems to be gone,. Time will tell.
Additionally, I lowered the car slightly front and rear when I first got it. It was a little tall for the 315x17's and 255x17's, and Goodyear F1's, but it was initially set up with those wheels and tires. The alignment Guru said the fact I lowered it made very little difference in the specs.
Because I disturbed the rear camber and toe in on the right rear, I took it down for a 4 wheel alignment. What I found was surprising although it shouldn't have been.
The front toe in was perfect at 1/8" total toe in, however, the camber was at a full degree negative and should be 1/4 degree negative for street and max of 3/4 degree negative for competition. Castor was 5 degrees positive. I set it to 4 degrees positive.
The rear left was right on at 1/8 deg. and camber at 1/2 degree negative. I set the right side at this same spec.
The car has felt neutral for the 8,000 miles in the last 3 years I've had it, so I set it up in the middle of the specs. Surprisingly, the tires show perfectly even wear even though the specs were set past the competition limit in the front and close to competition specs in the rear. The alignment guy said he has done Cobra's before and tire wear does not seem to be an issue if the specs are even close to what's called for in the manual.
I'm a happy camper. Happy Motoring!
My car is #2769 and the specs below are the ones in the manual I received with the car.
(Front wheels)
Toe IN 1/8" total
Camber 1/4 degree negative. For competition 1/2 to 3/4 degree neg
Castor 2-6 degrees positive
(Rear Wheels)
Toe In 1/8" total. For competition 1/4"
Camber 1/4 degree negative. For competition 1/2 to 3/4 degree negative
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