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Kirkham Motorsports

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  • 1 Post By Gary(SF)

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Old 04-22-2015, 11:59 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft #1333, Smeding 427
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Default need an electrical specialist

I have 2 vexing electrical problems:

1) gauge lighting is shorting, fuse blows immediately. Nothing obvious is jumping out but with the mass of wiring behind the dash it's not easy to troubleshoot.
2) turn signals have a short but I can put a new fuse in and they will work fine for a period of time and then blow the fuse so it's a combination of things that are causing this problem, apparently.

I have been trying to troubleshoot with my powerprobe but I have exhausted the limits of my expertise (and patience) and need a specialist to take care of it for me.

Can you recommend someone gifted in the electrical arts? The SF Peninsula is preferred but I'll take the car anywhere in the bay area if I have to.
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:38 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance MkIII (2995), Ford 460/521, Ted Taormina build
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I haven't had to deal with any electrical issues per se, but I haven't run into any Cobra-related issue that Ted Taormina in San Carlos couldn't handle. He knows Cobras inside out.

Taormina Imports Exotic Car Service Specialists
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Old 04-22-2015, 04:02 PM
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Default Lighting electrical short

I had a similar problem and finally traced it down. FFR (MK4) rear tail lights have a duel element bulb. It is held in place by a spring. The spring can short out the running lights/ and/or turn lights blowing the fuse. If you test without the bulb in place you may not find the fault because the spring only shorts out when it is compressed. I disconnected both rear lights, then tested by applying 12 volts to each line at the rear of the car. There is a disconnect at each corner that makes it sort of easy to do. The lights will come on or sparks will fly. You could use a fuse in the tester to avoid sparks. I cured the problem by taking the bulb socket apart, finding the small burnt spot, re-soldering the contact part, shrink tubing it for about 2 inches and put it all back together. Fixing takes 15 mins. Finding the fault took 2 hours.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:52 PM
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Gary,
I went over to see Ted today, he's open to taking it next week. I'm going to continue troubleshooting this weekend based on a couple of things he suggested.

Thanks.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:54 PM
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thanks, I'm going to focus on the connections at the endponts, will also look at the sockets for any burning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertMK4 View Post
I had a similar problem and finally traced it down. FFR (MK4) rear tail lights have a duel element bulb. It is held in place by a spring. The spring can short out the running lights/ and/or turn lights blowing the fuse. If you test without the bulb in place you may not find the fault because the spring only shorts out when it is compressed. I disconnected both rear lights, then tested by applying 12 volts to each line at the rear of the car. There is a disconnect at each corner that makes it sort of easy to do. The lights will come on or sparks will fly. You could use a fuse in the tester to avoid sparks. I cured the problem by taking the bulb socket apart, finding the small burnt spot, re-soldering the contact part, shrink tubing it for about 2 inches and put it all back together. Fixing takes 15 mins. Finding the fault took 2 hours.
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