newbie questions

[74proii]

So being my first time getting a cobra kit, there will be tons I will not know. So I purchased an unbuilt kit bought back in the 80's, and was never gotten around to. So After some board sniffing around I have a few questions. How do you know if it is a CR or CRII. Is it the wheelbase? I know specifics would be needed. However my body still is in flashing state, with only one door cut out, no gas cap depression on the fender. No roll bar, supposedly has longer wheelbase/ increased leg room. Did al the frame designs for the new kit get resolved. Would my frame be helpful? Having problems loading pics.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by 74proii

So being my first time getting a cobra kit, there will be tons I will not know. So I purchased an unbuilt kit bought back in the 80's, and was never gotten around to. So After some board sniffing around I have a few questions. How do you know if it is a CR or CRII. Is it the wheelbase? I know specifics would be needed. However my body still is in flashing state, with only one door cut out, no gas cap depression on the fender. No roll bar, supposedly has longer wheelbase/ increased leg room. Did al the frame designs for the new kit get resolved. Would my frame be helpful? Having problems loading pics.

If it was bought in the '80s it will be a CR - CRII didn't come along until July 2003 when Don Scott bought the company from its previous owner(s). CR & CRII have the same wheelbase - the difference is CRII was produced under the new ownership and there were some changes / improvements made to the car but that didn't include any change to the WB.

As to photos, get a free account on Photobucket, post your photos there and post links to those photos on CC.

Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing

[74proii]

Thanks. I found a date on my windshield of 9/6/91, and some lawsuit letters to the original owner. Lots of back order issues at the time.

[rbgray1]

I'm guessing the letters were to Gary Rutherford?

They also screwed my brother and I back in 1990. We were missing a bunch of parts, most importantly electrical system, that we had to find from another owner back in 1990.

Fortunately we found what we needed and got the car done, Unfortunately it cost us extra bucks. We also sued CR1 in 1990 and got NOTHING!

[SnakeDoc]

I also went after them. I did talk to one of the employees during the bankruptcy he was just hoping to get his back pay.

[74proii]

looking at the build manual. It did not really specify the pedal assembly. I assume they used the MII one, has anyone used fox body unit. What about columns other than
Ididot. Anyone tried an MII of Fox body?

[Wisconsin_Snake]

Originally Posted by 74proii

looking at the build manual. It did not really specify the pedal assembly. I assume they used the MII one, has anyone used fox body unit. What about columns other than
Ididot. Anyone tried an MII of Fox body?

Nope, the pedal box was custom made for the CR Cobra..

[rbgray1]

Flaming River Column, tilt-No Key.

I bought a polished one and cut off the CR mounting bracket on the cowl bar, installed a new stronger bracket that is welded across both upper tubes of the cowl bar and a 2" column drop from Flaming River. Far superior to crappy design from the original CR and the Chevette steering column.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

rbgray1, did you find the loss of the "tilt" on the steering column impeded you getting in/out of the car any?

[rbgray1]

I bought a Tilt with NO-KEY. I hated the GM style key on the column.

I'm installing a dash mounted key switch and separate momentary starter button on the dash when I get to that point on my rebuild.

[74proii]

I've seen them, but I want no Chevy parts. The electronics in the Idiot is Chevy, probably the Flaming River too. For a non tilt I was thinking about using a stock 66-73 stang column. As they are also 2" diameter and 30" long. I was planning a trip to the junkyard that got a couple of MII's in. Rare these days. I was going to try the pedal box from it, or my extra Fox body one.

[74proii]

Shelby: Cobra Replica
Shelby Cobra Replica | eBay
so I've been trying to research a few things, anyways I've noticed something I think is out of place. One these cars it appears the body is not positioned correctly to me. Specifically the wheel centering on the wheel wells. I think the red car was a factory build? Is this common, or bad body placement. Also In the build manual it has you cut the windshield brackets, yet I've seen several pics with full side mounts. Things way done the road for me, but I'm kind of anal that way.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

For the body positioning question, I can answer that.
This happens when you mount the firewall. When first putting the firewall in, initial thought is to push it forward up against the frame eliminating any gap between the frame and the firewall.
What should be done is to push the firewall backwards against the crowl bar, then fasten it down. Unfortunatly this is one of those many things not mentioned in the manual.

If you look at the blue cobra at the pic with the driver’s door open, you’ll notice that the dash extends ~1 inch past the upper door opening.

[74proii]

That's handy to note, as that is a major step, thanks. That would be why they are centered on the wheel wells.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

74proii, if you do a search on this sub-forum, DV (Double Venom) did a thorough write up on mounting the body so that your door line up. Search for that, copy it down, and use it.

[74proii]

I looked some at it and spent most of my time data mining the forum, looking at pics mainly. I was trying to figure the placement of the firewall from several posts and DV's build the 50 plus page build.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

I believe that I have it copied out at home....
I will look for you later today.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

Here is the instructions that DV wrote up:

Leave the Frame BARE AT THIS POINT! In other words do NOT build a rolling chassis yet........

#1- ONLY cut out the door panels in the body and the doors, cut out the panels in the body where the door will open into. (Cutting out the scoop is an option at this time.) Do NOT cut ANY other holes at this time.
#2- Mount the cowl bar with the supplied 1/4x20 bolts if it already hasn't been done. Strongly suggested for a side impact hit, but NOT necessary, WELD the feet of the cowl bar to the frame-in and out- both sides.
#3- Install the radiator hoop - tight.
#4- Install hood hinges, loose but completely mounted.
#5- Assemble your door hinges-do NOT attach to the doors yet.
#6- Install JUST the door STRIKERS. (Attempt to center them with the holes already drilled in the doors.

#7- Using a plasma Cutter or a 4"- 5" "Cut off Wheel", cut the steel plates out of the cowl bar. (Used for mounting your doors.) Mark these in some fashion so that you can install right side to right, left side to left, FACING THE SAME DIRECTION AND INNER FACING THE SAME WAY AS CUT OUT!

#8- Apply the rubber strip to the frame as indicated in the manual. (If you really want it to stick and not move while mounting the body spray it with spray glue first.)

NOW YOU ARE READY TO MOUNT THE BODY!
#9- Install the firewall, using the mentioned rubber strips above. Do not bolt it in place yet.

#10- A lift, two guys or even four make it real easy, drop the body down onto the frame with the defroster duct (underneath the front body cowl) fitting in between the dual cowl bars Move the body as far rear ward as you can get it. It should rest against the firewall and the front upright brace of the cowl bar.

Look up under the rear edge of the engine firewall/body. This flange (the top of the firewall) should be saddled by the body.***This saddle if you will, which fits over the firewall it is NOT mentioned anywhere in the manual, (any editions!) Shame. SHAME!

***WHEN YOU ARE FINALLY READY TO MOUNT THE BODY FOR THE LAST TIME AND PERMANENTLY YOU WILL NEED TO PUT A "HEAVY" BEAD OF SILICONE IN THIS CHANNEL. OPTION* I USE THE OLD STYLE WINDOW RIBBON SEAL TO INSTALL WINDSHIELDS OF YESTERDAY. EASY TO USE, NEAT AND WILL CERTAINLY DO THE JOB!

When you hear guys complaining about a VIBRATION in their car, usually 45MPH, to 65 MPH and then disappears above or below this speed, they OR their builder usually skipped this section. This is simply called "Cowl Shake" and goes back to the original Cobras!

#11- Once you have your body mounted AS WELL AS IT IS- leave the damned tape measure in your tool box!

Spaced evenly on top of the inner rocker panels that sit on your frame rails drill three spaced holes to be tapped for 1/4x20 bolts into the frame rails. (I use 1/4x20 FLANGE BOLTS- THESE WILL NOT COME LOOSE!) Once this is done and they are TIGHT then go to each inboard side of the rockers, split the difference the top bolts are put in and put three more evenly spaced 1/4 x 20 FLANGE bolts in place on the sides. Once these are tight then you will be able to take the body off at will and put it back exactly where you have fitted it! Just tighten the top bolts down until the side bolts line up then put them back in.

#12 Once your body is down where it will be - Mount your hood. Very easy to do at this point (Assuming you have not installed the motor etc., yet!) Lay the hood in place crawl up inside the engine compartment align your hood from underneath (Helps to have someone out side at this time.)
adjust the hood hinge at the radiator hoop forward and back wards to line up with the mounting holes in the hood. Try to hit dead center with the slots. Tighten up the rod collars that keep the hinge from going left and right. Now your hinge should be right on and you can take the hood off and install exactly where it goes.

#13 - DO NOT drill out the holes in the end of your doors where the hinges will bolt to! Bolt the hinges to your doors tightly! Now bolt the plates from the cowl bar that you previously cut out to the door hinges, PAYING STRICT ATTENTION TO WHICH ONE IS LEFT/RIGHT, POINTING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION, BOTH FORWARD AND UP!

IMPORTANT: YOU MAY HAVE TO TRIM THE FRONT OR BACK OR BOTH OF THESE PLATES TO GET THEM TO FIT BACK IN RIGHT!
This part is where patience and a couple of guys to hold the doors exactly in place comes in! Slide the doors in place, pull the hinge plates back into the cowl bar, making sure ALL AXIS's of the door matches the body WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE REAR GAP OF THE DOOR! (We'll get to this gap a little later!) What you want perfect is the height of the door front AND back, the front edge with a proper gap AND about 2/3rd's of the rocker from the front to the back. the final rear gap and the rear part of the rocker will be matched up in another step!

Once you are satisfied with your fit and this IS the final fitting JUST TACK the hinge plates back to the cowl. Now stand back and check it all over. (I know your door will not close yet....) If you are happy with your fit and the hinge is NOT binding anywhere WELD THE PLATE IN NOW-USE PROPER WELDING PROCEDURES-NO WARPING OR MOVING NOW!

Congratulations are now in order!

Closing the door with the STRIKER NOW hitting the body - THIS - is where and when you cut out for the striker to enter the body, NEVER cut the marks
on the body - FOR ANYTHING - These marks are guidelines only!

Once you are satisfied this piece is cut out right-the door fits correctly- well done!

#14 - FINAL STEP: Leaving your door mounted AND closed it is time for the final fitment! I use a floor jack and about a three foot long 2x4. I put the 2x4 on the jack, slide the entire assembly under JUST the rear of the body. DO NOT catch the frame or gas tank if it's installed and very slowly raise the rear of the body - A LITTLE AT A TIME - until the gap at the rear of the door closes up just right. This will also close up the gap at the rear of your rocker panel to the bottom of the door!

#15 - Satisfied with your final adjustment now mount your rear plates to the frame. Move them up tight to the body and clamp them in place--tightly--. Now either weld the plates to the frame or bold them in per the manual. (Do not attach the body to them at this time!)

Body work as needed to the doors while they are in place and now you have "Fitting" doors that any factory would be proud of!

[74proii]

thanks that will definitely help