CR Rear control arms

Chicagowil · #1 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 05:00 AM

Does anyone know if the rear control arms are custom on the Classic Roadsters or are they the stock Mustang Fox body arms. I would like to upgrade my arms when I swap out the rear foe a disc brake equipped unit I have.

G_Edmonds · #2 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 06:48 AM

The lower arm are Custom CR pieces. The uppers are fox body. The lowers can be made much better by boxing them and using urethane bushings. GM 2WD/4WD rear leaf spring bushings are the ones to get. For upper arms I like the adjustable ones so that pinion angle can be adjusted easily.

Chicagowil · #3 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 08:21 AM

Thanks for the info! was not sure looking at them under the car.

Chicagowil · #4 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 08:46 AM

BTW- does it matter what year for the bushings? what year should I order?

G_Edmonds · #5 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 01:46 PM

67-87.

Chicagowil · #6 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 01:58 PM

Thanks G Edmonds! That will be a big help!

G_Edmonds · #7 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 02:07 PM

I used Energy Suspension #3.2106R. The R is red, G is black.

cycleguy55 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G_Edmonds

I used Energy Suspension #3.2106R. The R is red, G is black.

It's my understanding the black bushings contain graphite and are less likely to squeak than the red ones. I've always bought the black ones from Energy.

MaSnaka · #9 (**permalink**) 04-30-2018, 09:49 PM

I have adjustable lowers and uppers. The lowers are custom length. I have heard DV Combs say to box in the original CR lowers to add strength. The uppers I'm using are made by Hotchkis. I have to look up the number if you want it.
John

Alfa02 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-01-2018, 10:24 AM

@Chicagowil, I believe if you go to this post 10-16-2016 under CRII in our forum, that should answer your question's on the control link's. Redwng & RBGray1 have both now undated they sup. piece's front & rear. It's quite a long post, but a good read. Hope this help's, Tom. Kirk! We're under attack!! Suspension help.

Chicagowil · #11 (**permalink**) 05-04-2018, 07:09 AM

Thanks for the link Tom. Lot of good info there. Will keep everyone posted. Still trying to get my new shop put together. Bouncing back and forth from WI to Boston has not left me with a lot of tie to get serious on the CR!

Was looking at the problem with my motor sitting cocked about 2" higher on the passenger side than the driver's side (viewing the EFI manifold). The frame tabs look OK.

Could be that the installer (previous owner(s)) messed up as to which side the mounts should have been on. But that should have caused a front to back location issue. Not a cocking of the motor.

Guess I will need to yank it all out and set a spare block & trans I have into it to figure it out.

Alfa02 · #12 (**permalink**) 05-04-2018, 09:34 AM

@Chicagowil, your very welcome. When I brought my CR, I was missing a few important piece's, trying to find part's, info, etc. (only to CR) that have not been built since 1992, was a huge huddle, without Club Cobra (CR forum) my car would never have been able to get to the final stage of assy (95%). The gentleman here that went above & beyond, finding me NOS parts, I will never be able to thank them enough, you guys know who you are

Cheers Tom.

rbgray1 · #13 (**permalink**) 05-07-2018, 06:34 AM

Lower 4 link arms are custom CR. You can make new ones very easily by using rectangular tube and round stock to hold the bushings. Problem is that you lose the mounting location for the rear sway bar and would need to fabricate that as well.

I have removed the rear VEGA springs and added QA1 coilovers front and rear. I'm cutting the spring perch off the top of the factory CR links, completely boxing the top with 3/16 CRS and about two thirds of the bottom, this still leaves space for the rear sway bar mount and will make the lower links MUCH stiffer and less prone to twisting. Pretty easy fix. I wasn't sure about the bushings being GM from Energy Suspension, thanks for the post!!!

rbgray1 · #14 (**permalink**) 05-07-2018, 06:35 AM

BTW, I tried the QA1 lower links for a STOCK Mustang Gen 3 and found them to be about 2.5 inches too long!

MaSnaka · #15 (**permalink**) 05-07-2018, 09:57 PM

I used some tubular adjustable lower links. We had to figure out how much to shorten them (2.5" sounds about right) and cut and re-welded then powder coat. turned out beautiful. Both ends are threaded for adjustment. Pictures in my gallery.

Now with that said I am trying to figure out how to re-install my anti sway bar. A bit of an overstear problem. Minor but fixable.

Good luck,
John