What Pedal Box?

[Lightingrod]

I modified a CRII pedal box for no throttle (electronic now) and hydraulic clutch! With only 700 miles the clutch master cylinder failed! It was a Wilwood 7/8"! This is for a GM hydraulic throw-out bearing. I didn't like the feel of it but it seemed to be moving in/out pretty straight, with no binding and I had a stop! To reduce pedal movement I replaced it with a 1 1/8" Wilwood, I like it even less!

Thinking of going with this:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-11295/10002/-1

Thoughts?

[MaSnaka]

I'm using the 7/8" wildwood MC in the existing CR pedal box. Been a few years now and over 5K miles. Very happy.
I had clutch problems of one sort or another including failed MC's (Howe Racing) more than a couple times, internal throw out bearing (McCloud) more than a couple times, pressure plate one of the fingers broke once. Seemed like every 6 months to a year I was fixing something. I switched to a external slave with a traditional fork and throw out bearing and replaced the MC with the wildwood. The geometry was a little tricky getting enough movement on the slave and leverage on the fork but it works great now that it's dialed in. Pressure plate and disc are RAM. Knock knock on wood.

With hydraulics it's a volumetric math problem.


Good luck,
John

[Lightingrod]

“With hydraulics it's a volumetric math problem“. For sure!

FYI in my opinion the 1 1/8" is way to much for a hydraulic throw out, a GM one anyway! The pedal is to heavy and quick! It's damn near an on/off switch! I'm really thinking about going with the setup I linked above and rebuild the 7/8” master cylinder I was using before! I may also go with a little smaller diameter on the brake master cylinder as well. The brakes are also pretty dang heavy!

[CR67rep]

Lightning, if you go through with it try to take progress pics for a short write up. one of my biggest dislikes with my current set up is the pedal box. I've been studying on how to make it better but without access to machining equipment and knowledge of how to use them my pocket book has lead me away from addressing it to this point.

[HighPlainsDrifter]

Hi,
As a mustang guy I use the fox body mustang pedals and the power brake booster/master cylinder for a 95 GT. That way it works with the 4 wheel disc brakes. Also it uses the clutch cable and is adjustable and simple to use and will never leak and strand you like a hydraulic setup.
Perry.

[Lightingrod]

I was going to use a cable setup with a TKO-600 RR 5 speed when I decided to go with the complete GM Connect and Cruise LS package that uses a hydraulic throw-out! Pretty much no way to do cable or pushrod on this!

I’m sure as heck not looking forward to standing on my head under the dash again!

[Roylerumble]

I'm interested in how you used the pedals from a mustang. I've just bought a CR kit, but it's an automatic, and I'm installing a 5.0 and t5 from a 91 foxbody mustang. converting it looks to be a bit of a challenge.... I'm not worried about power brakes, it's gonna be a mild rebuild with a few bolt on mods, but I want to do 4 wheel disc brakes. If power brakes isn't a big deal, maybe I go that route? was it a difficult swap?

[Lightingrod]

The pedal box was from CR II but it was a cable setup like a Fox-Body!
I would go with an after market complete pedal assembly! Wilwood or some other after market brand!

https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-12411/10002/-1

[Roylerumble]

Originally Posted by Lightingrod

The pedal box was from CR II but it was a cable setup like a Fox-Body!
I would go with an after market complete pedal assembly! Wilwood or some other after market brand!

https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-12411/10002/-1

I have to do a bunch of research on this topic to determine if I want to go cable or hydraulic clutch, stay with drum in the rear or upgrade to disc in the rear (prob go that route now as apposed to later), and address the accelerator pedal now. Id love to see what other build used in regards to floor mount, reverse swing, firewall mount, upper mount, etc. I like those wilwoods you found. I also found these
https://www.usrpc.com/product/revers...nder-kit-6-21/
and these
https://www.usrpc.com/product/revers...er-pedal-6-21/
What was the ratio that should be used? I recall reading 6:1

[t walgamuth]

Originally Posted by Lightingrod

I modified a CRII pedal box for no throttle (electronic now) and hydraulic clutch! With only 700 miles the clutch master cylinder failed! It was a Wilwood 7/8"! This is for a GM hydraulic throw-out bearing. I didn't like the feel of it but it seemed to be moving in/out pretty straight, with no binding and I had a stop! To reduce pedal movement I replaced it with a 1 1/8" Wilwood, I like it even less!

Thinking of going with this:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-11295/10002/-1

Thoughts?

With the 1 1/8" mc vs the 7/8" your pedal pressure should be significantly harder....is that your complaint?

[t walgamuth]

Originally Posted by Lightingrod

“With hydraulics it's a volumetric math problem“. For sure!

FYI in my opinion the 1 1/8" is way to much for a hydraulic throw out, a GM one anyway! The pedal is to heavy and quick! It's damn near an on/off switch! I'm really thinking about going with the setup I linked above and rebuild the 7/8” master cylinder I was using before! I may also go with a little smaller diameter on the brake master cylinder as well. The brakes are also pretty dang heavy!

Right, so if you want easier to push brakes you need to go smaller on the master or bigger on the calipers....I believe changing the master should be easier, especially if you have two masters and a balance bar. If you change the front brake calipers you should change the rear as well, assuming the balance is good now.

[Lightingrod]

I think so, I need to go back and see what size master cylinder I have! I also need to check what calipers I used, I think they were Ranger or Explorer? I know we up-sized from Foxbody!

[Roylerumble]

how did your project go? What did you decide? I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to tackle my pedals and clutch....